hlem August 10, 2012 Author Share August 10, 2012 (edited) I have to say that these are 100000x easier to put together than the cree stars. Took me less than 2 hours to put this together, all 84 leds. I've worked with the CREE Stars before and it probably took me over an hour, maybe even more, just to put 10 leds or so together, and that doesnt include drilling on the heatsink to attach the leds. Edited August 10, 2012 by hlem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan S August 10, 2012 Share August 10, 2012 what has the cost been from start to finish? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hlem August 10, 2012 Author Share August 10, 2012 what has the cost been from start to finish? Cost so far is about the price of 1 radion. But will cover my 265 gallon tank easily. that's 84"x24x30"deep, with an extra smaller fixture for a frag tank. hours so far, maybe 2-3 hours invested in physical work, about 4-5 in looking/buying/designing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan S August 10, 2012 Share August 10, 2012 Cost so far is about the price of 1 radion. But will cover my 265 gallon tank easily. that's 84"x24x30"deep, with an extra smaller fixture for a frag tank. hours so far, maybe 2-3 hours invested in physical work, about 4-5 in looking/buying/designing. So about $750 invested? I think Chad is over $2000 on his LEDs. There is a learning curve for sure. Your tank, if covered in radions, would probably require like 4 of them... So your DIY is a lot cheaper then $3000, that's for sure! Looking forward to seeing your DIY LEDs in action! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hlem August 10, 2012 Author Share August 10, 2012 So about $750 invested? I think Chad is over $2000 on his LEDs. There is a learning curve for sure. Your tank, if covered in radions, would probably require like 4 of them... So your DIY is a lot cheaper then $3000, that's for sure! Looking forward to seeing your DIY LEDs in action! oh, a radion is $750? thought it was $700 but keep in mind, mine is not controlled, only on/off functions. no dimming, or sunrise/sunset. however, I've estimated this as well, it'll be another $250-$350 if i want add DIM4 controllers and dimmable drivers. I've also calculated adding UV/Red/Green, those will cost about $50 more per fixture. But I dont need it, maybe next time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad August 10, 2012 Share August 10, 2012 So about $750 invested? I think Chad is over $2000 on his LEDs. There is a learning curve for sure. Your tank, if covered in radions, would probably require like 4 of them... So your DIY is a lot cheaper then $3000, that's for sure! Looking forward to seeing your DIY LEDs in action! Nah... it's not that high. I am around $1400, though more than half is in computer controls and cosmetics. (by the way, it lights now ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taiscici August 10, 2012 Share August 10, 2012 Very clean built so far. Take a look at the light below I bet this is similar to your 100W chip http://www.marinedepot.com/Orphek_DIF_100_100_Watt_120_Degree_LED_Pendant_Aquarium_LED_Pendant_Lights-Orphek-UG1731-FILTFILDLP-vi.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan S August 10, 2012 Share August 10, 2012 Nah... it's not that high. I am around $1400, though more than half is in computer controls and cosmetics. (by the way, it lights now ) Nice! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hlem August 10, 2012 Author Share August 10, 2012 Very clean built so far. Take a look at the light below I bet this is similar to your 100W chip http://www.marinedepot.com/Orphek_DIF_100_100_Watt_120_Degree_LED_Pendant_Aquarium_LED_Pendant_Lights-Orphek-UG1731-FILTFILDLP-vi.html I bet you it's the same chip LoL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zygote2k August 10, 2012 Share August 10, 2012 To accurately test the heat on the heatsink, youj should get one of those infrared heat guns that you point and shoot to get a localized reading. If the heatsink gets much over 110 degrees, you'll have premature failures of the emitters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad August 10, 2012 Share August 10, 2012 ^from where do you get that number? Please provide a reference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucelli August 10, 2012 Share August 10, 2012 Looking good. one thing puzzles me (unless I'm misunderstanding something). This is the LED's spec when running fully 3W running at 680mA, 3.4V 10W at 900mA, 12V, <65F working temp 100W at ~3.5A. 30-36V, <65F working temp and also my basement, usually stays around 70F in summer time, so pretty cool year round. How can the working temp be less than 65F on any of the emitters? Are these manufacture specs or did you come up with these based on your own calculations? I'm also not trying to start any arguments. Just want to make sure you have sufficient cooling so your LED experience doesn't get soured. -Robert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hlem August 10, 2012 Author Share August 10, 2012 To accurately test the heat on the heatsink, youj should get one of those infrared heat guns that you point and shoot to get a localized reading. If the heatsink gets much over 110 degrees, you'll have premature failures of the emitters. Interesting... the spec for the 100W and 10W states "led working temperature: <65C", I'm not exactly sure what this means, but I'm guess it can/tolerate/goes up to 65C when operating... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hlem August 10, 2012 Author Share August 10, 2012 Looking good. one thing puzzles me (unless I'm misunderstanding something). How can the working temp be less than 65F on any of the emitters? Are these manufacture specs or did you come up with these based on your own calculations? I'm also not trying to start any arguments. Just want to make sure you have sufficient cooling so your LED experience doesn't get soured. -Robert All manufacture specs. I welcome any and all comments/feedback/suggestion as I am working with these for the very first time and wouldnt want to blow anything out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucelli August 10, 2012 Share August 10, 2012 ah..... Celsius! Now that is VERY different. That sounds more like it. Most likely that means as long as you keep junction temps below 65C, the emitters will conform to their published lumen maintenance specs. -Robert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucelli August 10, 2012 Share August 10, 2012 Just some food for thought when using other emitters other than the Crees everyone else seems to be using: The Cree emitters, at least the older generation ones, (I assume the newer/latest generation ones have improved) can tolerate up to 80C junction temp during operation and still conform to the "50000 hours" lifetime rating. So that gives you some more flexibility in the cooling department and/or possible increase in lumen maintenance when compared with the emitters you used in this build. They are obviously more expensive, so you just have to do the math to see if the money you are saving by buying "non-Cree" is worthwhile. It may be that you chose these emitters over the Crees because they are easier to implement (which is totally fine BTW). Just something to think about for others who may be trying to decide which brand to use... -Robert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hlem August 10, 2012 Author Share August 10, 2012 ah..... Celsius! Now that is VERY different. That sounds more like it. Most likely that means as long as you keep junction temps below 65C, the emitters will conform to their published lumen maintenance specs. -Robert oh whopss.. sorry, yea. it's 65C = 149F. my bad 65F be very very hard to achieve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hlem August 10, 2012 Author Share August 10, 2012 Just some food for thought when using other emitters other than the Crees everyone else seems to be using: The Cree emitters, at least the older generation ones, (I assume the newer/latest generation ones have improved) can tolerate up to 80C junction temp during operation and still conform to the "50000 hours" lifetime rating. So that gives you some more flexibility in the cooling department and/or possible increase in lumen maintenance when compared with the emitters you used in this build. They are obviously more expensive, so you just have to do the math to see if the money you are saving by buying "non-Cree" is worthwhile. It may be that you chose these emitters over the Crees because they are easier to implement (which is totally fine BTW). Just something to think about for others who may be trying to decide which brand to use... -Robert here are some reasons why I chose these leds Price: Cree = 3-4x more, maybe higher with the newer stuff Implementation: These are wayyyyy easier to put together. a whole lot less drilling, no soldering one emitter to the next, even though you'll need to solder it to the PCB, but that's a very easy cause there is no wire, and a lot less wiring throughout. life expectancy: truthfully - I'm pretty sure I'll upgrade/change with newer technology wayyy before the 50,000 hours. I've change light 3 times already before this build. MH, T5, led fixture. why pay for 50K hours when you know there'll be new/different things coming also, the 100W is rated 10,000lm, that's 100lm/W. I'm dont remember what the CREE was rated at, but I remember it being less. i may be wrong here. but anyway, the first 3 reasons were good enough for me to give these a try. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hlem August 10, 2012 Author Share August 10, 2012 DHL dropped this offer like 20 minutes ago Check out the 100W lens (i only ordered one cause they didnt have 90 degrees in, so i got a 70 degree to test with. fits perfectly... no room for error tho... =( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hlem August 10, 2012 Author Share August 10, 2012 i'm going to be working on the smaller frag tank fixture first as the fans will not be here for another 2-3 weeks, hopefully sooner... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hlem August 18, 2012 Author Share August 18, 2012 Still waiting on some parts. but almost finished with the smaller fixture. I'm starting to build the case to hold it, I'm using plywood. I dont have metal or acrylic tools to work with those. Anyone has any idea if using wood is okay for a case? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad August 18, 2012 Share August 18, 2012 That is looking great! Honestly, I don't like the idea of wood for an electronics case (of any type) based on the fire concerns, especially when you have parts that may well have temperatures high enough to catch a spark. Plus, wood is a pretty good insulator, so the internal temperatures will be higher than if a metal (and maybe plastic depending on thickness) fixture was used. But that's just my thoughts and why, I know it's been done, though and there are some nice pics on RC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zygote2k August 18, 2012 Share August 18, 2012 ^from where do you get that number? Please provide a reference. This is what Ecoxotic told me as to the reason of their failing pro modules. They said that the fan needs to keep the temp below 110 F otherwise it leads to premature burnout of the emitters. I've experienced 12 of these things dying. Maybe the more expensive emitters and assemblies have higher heat resistance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad August 18, 2012 Share August 18, 2012 Huh. Yep, that's a low number for electronics in general. I'm surprised they went to production knowing something like that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hlem August 18, 2012 Author Share August 18, 2012 ok, just finished the box for the small light. It's a little frankenstien-ish, birdhouse-ish , but once I paint it black, it should look nice, I hope. Here it is over a frag tank. The 3 holes are for timers. Still waiting on 1-2 things to finish putting the drivers in there. I'll take an inside pics once everything is ready. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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