.OptimusPrime. July 5, 2012 Share July 5, 2012 I don't know when I will plan an upgrade, but 120 will probably be my next and max tank size. I have just been thinking about this for awhile and wanted to get some feed back, so here it goes. It turns out the spot where I have my 75G is a perfect fit for a 120 as well. That is if I can eliminate the the space between the tank and the wall where all the piping is, meaning all my plumbing will have to be through the bottom the the tank. I want to keep my herbie overflow setup. It works flawless now and I intended to keep it that way. That being said I have looked at several options: 1 - All these RR tanks that have overflows in them, is it possible to the bottom of the tank to make the holes bigger or more holes? (I would like to keep my 1.5" full siphon drain line if possible). RR specs show only 1" drains and 3/4" returns. Everything I've read says tank bottoms are tempered and will break, but I just wanted to double check. 1a. Is there any way to keep the 1.5" gate valve I already have? Maybe leave the drains as 1" and increase pipe diameter under the tank? 2 - There are two styles of RR tanks I have seen for 120s. 1 corner and 2 corner overflows. Due to in tank real estate, I would ideally like to stick to only one overflow. Can I get away with just one full siphon drain with no emergency? or am I just asking for trouble and a flood to occur? 2a. With 2 overflows (if I have to). I can set up one box as drain/emergency and the other as returns. Has anyone done this? There are several threads over on RC I have read where people have issues with 2 overflows and a herbie type setup. 3. - Buy a non drilled 120. Pop off the bottom panel. Replace with a non-tempered section of 48x24 glass and drill away to have an overflow of my liking. This obviously will be not very cost effective and probably the most expensive outside of a custom tank. (option 4). My only worry would be my silicone work, or maybe I can get someone to do it who has experience. No clue on what this would cost outside of the tank (400-500). 4. - Just get a custom tank (glass/acrylic). If I were to do this route, I would probably do something like this (quick paint job): where the overflow box is a tower in the center of the tank and I have the 2 returns coming out of either side. I just noticed I missed a hole for the emergency, but this way I could keep an 1.5" drain line and all the misc plumbing parts. In my head this overflow looks to be a small foot print, but I could be wrong. Any other ideas/critiques/advice is greatly encouraged. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epleeds July 5, 2012 Share July 5, 2012 most custom builders could do what ever you wanted for an overflow. just depends on how "custom" you want to get. There is no way, i would "pop" off the bottom pane and then replace it. Just contact a builder and have one made. Also, is this going to be in the center of the room? if not, no need for the center overflow since you can't see behind it. I have custom built one centered off my back wall. 2 - 1.5" drains and 1 - 1" return. Going to run one at full siphon and the other is the emergency drain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.OptimusPrime. July 5, 2012 Author Share July 5, 2012 If I were to purchase the tank today; no the center tower overflow would be useless as the tank would be up against the wall. However, in the future when I move the tank could be placed in the center of a room. How big is your tank and the overflow box dimensions? I guess my main concern is maximizing real estate while keeping the dimensions of the overflow box small. I'd prefer not to have external plumbing. Is there anyway possible to run a herbie inside a single corner flow RR tank? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epleeds July 5, 2012 Share July 5, 2012 My tank is 72x30x22. would have to measure overflow box, but its as small as i could get it with the 3 holes in it. you could run off a corner overflow by using the larger hole for the drain, the smaller for the emergency and run a u-tube over the back for the return. I did that when i had my 100 gallon cadlights. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zygote2k July 5, 2012 Share July 5, 2012 I'd order your 120 from the manufacturer and get what you want on it. Center overflow is nice. You want 2) 1" returns and 1) 1.5" drain. No need for an "emergency" drain. This is one of those urban reef legends that keep getting perpetuated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hypertech July 5, 2012 Share July 5, 2012 I'd order your 120 from the manufacturer and get what you want on it. Center overflow is nice. You want 2) 1" returns and 1) 1.5" drain. No need for an "emergency" drain. This is one of those urban reef legends that keep getting perpetuated. IF he is running a full siphon drains, it is absolutely required to have an emergency drain and this is in no way an urban reef legend. If anything - a snail, a piece of algae, whatever - gets into a full siphon drain, the tank will overflow unless you have the emergency drain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Incredible Corals July 5, 2012 Share July 5, 2012 IF he is running a full siphon drains, it is absolutely required to have an emergency drain and this is in no way an urban reef legend. If anything - a snail, a piece of algae, whatever - gets into a full siphon drain, the tank will overflow unless you have the emergency drain. +1 Only two drains needed. Some people say 3 but that is over kill. One for full siphon and the other as a back up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zygote2k July 5, 2012 Share July 5, 2012 I'm not debating whether or not an emergency drain works, I'm just saying that internal overflow floods are on the extremely slim side of occurring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GraffitiSpotCorals July 5, 2012 Share July 5, 2012 The full syphon drain setup there is the syphon then the back up then an emergency drain. Not really needed as long as the back up can handle the flow of water. The backup IS needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hypertech July 6, 2012 Share July 6, 2012 I'm not debating whether or not an emergency drain works, I'm just saying that internal overflow floods are on the extremely slim side of occurring. They are extremely common on a full siphon aka herbie drain setup. Many times I have found a small trickle in my emergency drain signaling that a small adjustment to the gate valve is needed. If I didn't have that drain line I'd have had water on the floor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icecool2 July 6, 2012 Share July 6, 2012 My emergency drain on my Herbie has saved me many times. All it takes is a wayward snail to block it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.OptimusPrime. July 6, 2012 Author Share July 6, 2012 So if I get a custom tank what are my options?? I have preliminary quotes for Adam and NAGA on 120G acrylics. In terms of glass whats out there? Miracles? GlassCages? I remember reading NAGA did glass as well, but not sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epleeds July 6, 2012 Share July 6, 2012 I have a miracles, adam and naga both do glass. just depends on the size you want and how custom you really want to go. plus with the 120 size, you could even go with a pre-fab like the cadlights 100 artisian which i think is in the ballpark of $700 or so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BowieReefer84 July 6, 2012 Share July 6, 2012 Call that pet place in PA. They sell corner overflow 120's cheap. Plus it's a fun place to see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArtFully Acrylic (Adam B) July 6, 2012 Share July 6, 2012 4. - Just get a custom tank (glass/acrylic). If I were to do this route, I would probably do something like this (quick paint job): where the overflow box is a tower in the center of the tank and I have the 2 returns coming out of either side. I just noticed I missed a hole for the emergency, but this way I could keep an 1.5" drain line and all the misc plumbing parts. In my head this overflow looks to be a small foot print, but I could be wrong. Any other ideas/critiques/advice is greatly encouraged. Hello Optimus =). Just wanted to drop in and address this one question real quick. I just finished a 150gal with a center overflow. To answer the question on approximate size I will say that the one I built had an 8x8 overflow box in the middle. The drain/return setup in it was very similar to your proposed. However, with you running two drains and two return holes in it I would anticipate it being a bit bigger footprint than this. Another variable is whether you go with Sch40 or Sch80 bulkheads as the Sch80 bulkheads will definitely need more space. Good luck in your pursuit. If you have any other questions that I can help with just post up and let me know Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArtFully Acrylic (Adam B) July 6, 2012 Share July 6, 2012 So if I get a custom tank what are my options?? I have preliminary quotes for Adam and NAGA on 120G acrylics. In terms of glass whats out there? Miracles? GlassCages? I remember reading NAGA did glass as well, but not sure. Also, I would stay away from GlassCages. I have heard far to many horror stories...Miracles would be better or, as BowieReefer mentioned, you could try that pet place in PA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.OptimusPrime. July 6, 2012 Author Share July 6, 2012 Hello Optimus =). Just wanted to drop in and address this one question real quick. I just finished a 150gal with a center overflow. To answer the question on approximate size I will say that the one I built had an 8x8 overflow box in the middle. The drain/return setup in it was very similar to your proposed. However, with you running two drains and two return holes in it I would anticipate it being a bit bigger footprint than this. Another variable is whether you go with Sch40 or Sch80 bulkheads as the Sch80 bulkheads will definitely need more space. Good luck in your pursuit. If you have any other questions that I can help with just post up and let me know Also, I would stay away from GlassCages. I have heard far to many horror stories...Miracles would be better or, as BowieReefer mentioned, you could try that pet place in PA. Hahah mind reader!! I just sent you an email about this!!! I should have mentioned that I have sched. 80 bulkheads and would like to keep it that way. 8 x 8? holy crap that pretty much means I back down to 75G... I didn't realize the footprint would be that huge. Anyway check your email! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hypertech July 6, 2012 Share July 6, 2012 (edited) If you go with 1" drains and one return that you split near the top, it will be smaller. Less holes of smaller dimension will reduce the size of the overflow. I don't know that I would do a center overflow in that size tank. It seems like it would be aweful close to the front glass. Could you do an end overflow or a corner instead? Edited July 6, 2012 by hypertech Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.OptimusPrime. July 6, 2012 Author Share July 6, 2012 If you go with 1" drains and one return that you split near the top, it will be smaller. Less holes of smaller dimension will reduce the size of the overflow. I don't know that I would do a center overflow in that size tank. It seems like it would be aweful close to the front glass. Could you do an end overflow or a corner instead? Since I have a 1.5 bulkhead already for the drain already, is it possible to have the main drain (inside the tank) start as a 1" drain and then go to 1.5" pipe before the bulkhead and then underneath the tank? Yeah I'm not starting to like the idea of the center overflow tower if its going to be a massive footprint like that, probably will end up doing a corner or center straight down. End overflow - I assume you mean the box is sitting on the short side of the tank? Hadn't thought about it that way since I was thinking the plumbing would be sticking out the side but if I'm getting a custom one made, it can come out from the bottom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArtFully Acrylic (Adam B) July 6, 2012 Share July 6, 2012 Hahah mind reader!! I just sent you an email about this!!! I should have mentioned that I have sched. 80 bulkheads and would like to keep it that way. 8 x 8? holy crap that pretty much means I back down to 75G... I didn't realize the footprint would be that huge. Anyway check your email! Its not quite that bad. 8x8x24 consumes about 6-7 gallons of water "space". It would leave you with 8" in front of and behind the overflow. Since I have a 1.5 bulkhead already for the drain already, is it possible to have the main drain (inside the tank) start as a 1" drain and then go to 1.5" pipe before the bulkhead and then underneath the tank? Yeah I'm not starting to like the idea of the center overflow tower if its going to be a massive footprint like that, probably will end up doing a corner or center straight down. End overflow - I assume you mean the box is sitting on the short side of the tank? Hadn't thought about it that way since I was thinking the plumbing would be sticking out the side but if I'm getting a custom one made, it can come out from the bottom. Not sure if I'm completely clear on this question, but if you are asking if you can go out through a 1" bulkhead into 1.5" standpipe under the tank then yes you certainly can, but your flow would be more like that produced by a 1" drain. The other option with the center overflow is to make it a bit longer, but narrower to provide more space in front/behind, but obviously if not setup in the middle of the room or in a peninsula format you all but "lose" the view of the space behind it. The one I mentioned building before is going to be a center of room 4 side viewable tank so the 8x8 setup isn't that bad on it. Further, the tank is 66" long, 26" wide, and 20" tall so it has a few extra inches in the width to compensate some as well...not to mention the additional foot and a half in length... The end overflow may be a good idea that would allow you to setup the tank on the wall and not lose much real estate in the tank, but also provide the option of at least having a peninsula setup in the future. The plumbing could be setup to go out the bottom as mentioned or we could really make it custom by keeping the plumbing, and overflow external (REALLY maximizing internal space), but hiding it by building a box around that side of the tank. Box could be made to match/be part of the stand thereby made of wood, or could take a contemporary approach by making the box from black acrylic =). Just a few other ideas... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hypertech July 6, 2012 Share July 6, 2012 Since I have a 1.5 bulkhead already for the drain already, is it possible to have the main drain (inside the tank) start as a 1" drain and then go to 1.5" pipe before the bulkhead and then underneath the tank? Don't pick a custom tank setup because you have $20 worth of plumbing parts that don't fit the plan. Design the tank and then get the plumbing you need to make it work if what you have doesn't match. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.OptimusPrime. July 24, 2012 Author Share July 24, 2012 Does anyone have any thoughts on this? Where he removed the overflows and then capped the holes then did the C2C? http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1934188&highlight=coast+to+coast Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Der ABT July 24, 2012 Share July 24, 2012 (edited) haha been seriously thinking of doing that to the next tank....looks liek alot of work but you gain a crap ton of room...id be a little scared using the method he did(think i would stick with the dremel and cutting wheel but?? you could always do a coast to coast in the upper back part and just run the tubing you want up to it from the bottom of the tank (match the pvc to the back ground color) and cover it up with rock and or corals...depeding on where the pipes are a rock tower could hide it easily.... oceanic 120 tech tanks have 4 holes drilled in center overflow box that doesnt take up too much room (might be 3/4 holes or 1 in i cant remember) but i would think that would work fine for you....even if you give up a little flow i dont think it will cause a huge difference. My main issue with overflow boxes is space and the disrupt the flow alot in the tank especially if yuo have mp40s..... otherwise if you think this is going to be your final upgrade, or one youll keep for several years, GO Custom...why not, if its something your going to look at all the time make it the way you want it....if you think yuor moving in 3-5 yrs or will want bigger in 2 months...eh maybe not.....but if your pretty sure its going to be with you for a while then its worth having something built to your specifications if you ask me. Edited July 24, 2012 by Der ABT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Amuze July 24, 2012 Share July 24, 2012 why even do a box/tower at all in the center? Why don't you just do the piping and incase them in rockwork instead? Or go with an ultra thin overflow along the top back of the tank? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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