How do I prevent Bubble Algae from enteringnew tank

[Oceanic6]

I just recently upgraded to a 30 gallon shallow tank from a 20 gallon. Once my new tank has completed cycling, I wanted to move all my corals over. However, my tank is riddled with bubble algae and I'm afraid that even with careful inspection and cleaning, it may be introduced into my new system. I know that if plucked and intact, the bubble algae will not release any spores, but what if there are some spores remaining on the coral itself from the water in the old system. Are there any methods for eliminated bubble algae spores, perhaps a dip? Any help would be appreciated.

[zygote2k]

There is no known cure for Valonia (bubble algae).

You will have to take 6 pills a day unless you are on Valtrex- in which case you'll only need 2 pills.

Not that I have what ails you.

[surf&turf]

There is no known cure for Valonia (bubble algae).

You will have to take 6 pills a day unless you are on Valtrex- in which case you'll only need 2 pills.

Not that I have what ails you.

 

Yea, but the side affects are terrible, nausea, diarrhea, headache, shakes, can't sleep, and cramps.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Marc Weaver]

Yea, but the side affects are terrible, nausea, diarrhea, headache, shakes, can't sleep, and cramps.

 

Know that from experience? LOL

[Sharkey18]

You guys are hysterical. Completely not helpful. But funny.

 

Unfortunately, they are also right. There is no way you can guarantee not transferring Valonia on existing corals / rock. I have the same problem. I have corals and rock in my old tank that I will want to transfer to the new tank. Best thing to do is transfer the smallest possible piece after if has been thoroughly cleaned and inspected. Also make sure your tank is fully cycled before you add them so there aren't a ton of nutrients to help out the algae. This is probably the best you can do and the chances are very high you will still have to fight the valonia in the new tank, but hopefully in smaller, easier to battle amounts. No tank is completely free of algae. It's more of a management issue as far as I'm concerned.

 

Good luck!

[astroboy]

I've found that if you get nitrates, phosphates and DOC pretty low, bubble algae goes away in a reasonable amount of time. My impression is that it needs alot of those things to reproduce, and if they fall below certain levels the existing bubbles eventually die off. When NO3, PO4 and DOC in my tank were low, I was able to puncture the bubbles which killed them without new ones showing up. If those aren't low, then of course puncturing is a great way to have bubble algae take over your tank.

 

In my experience, raising Mg to 1500-1600 certainly kills off (most species of ) bryopsis and hair algae, and seems to inhibit algae growth in general except for the cheto in my fuge. It at least does no harm to corals or fish....

 

 

 

[Oceanic6]

LOL! Reefing can be so frustrating sometimes. There have been times when I could have used a few happy pills.

 

Sharkey 18 - I figured as much. It almost makes me not want to transfer any of the corals over, but there's always a chance Valonia could be introduced into the tank from other corals I may purchase in the future. I guess you can't stop the inevitable.

 

Astroboy - I am fairly new to saltwater/reefing - a little over a year now. It seems nutrient control is the answer to most problems. I'm still learning. I appreciate the helpful tips!

[astroboy]

LOL! Reefing can be so frustrating sometimes. There have been times when I could have used a few happy pills.

 

Sharkey 18 - I figured as much. It almost makes me not want to transfer any of the corals over, but there's always a chance Valonia could be introduced into the tank from other corals I may purchase in the future. I guess you can't stop the inevitable.

 

Astroboy - I am fairly new to saltwater/reefing - a little over a year now. It seems nutrient control is the answer to most problems. I'm still learning. I appreciate the helpful tips!

 

Of course nutrients are the main thing, but at the risk of sounding like a fanatic, my experience indicates low Mg (below say 1100-1000) is the source of many many problems and is usually far down on the list of things to check. I should add, most salt mixes only give you about 1000 ppm Mg, Tropic Marin might be about 1150. I used a mix of Dead Sea Salts (Home Depot, Merrifield Nursey) and epson salts from any drug store to get the right balance of MgSO4 and MgCL. Cheap, cheap, cheap. Bulk Reef Supply or Reef Calculator (?) give directions on what proportions to use.

 

 

 

[Oceanic6]

Of course nutrients are the main thing, but at the risk of sounding like a fanatic, my experience indicates low Mg (below say 1100-1000) is the source of many many problems and is usually far down on the list of things to check. I should add, most salt mixes only give you about 1000 ppm Mg, Tropic Marin might be about 1150. I used a mix of Dead Sea Salts (Home Depot, Merrifield Nursey) and epson salts from any drug store to get the right balance of MgSO4 and MgCL. Cheap, cheap, cheap. Bulk Reef Supply or Reef Calculator (?) give directions on what proportions to use.

 

 

 

 

That's interesting. So, along with your Salt mix, you add dead sea salts and epsom salt to your mixture o get the right balance. Would it work just as well to dose Magnesium into your tank? I found an old bottle of 'Tech M Magnesium' supplement by Kent Marine in my cabinet. A LFS recommended it to me. I stopped using a while back and I'm not sure if it's even good anymore. Can you recommend an easy and accurate test kit for Magnesium?

[Incredible Corals]

I have tired a few and elos is the easiest IMO.

[nbgen12]

Salifert is pretty easy/accurate

 

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[Oceanic6]

Thanks for the suggestions. What are your thoughts on the Hanna checkers? Are they worth the money?