Barebottom w/ OM 4-Way Closed Loop

[Omair]

Over the weekend I was lucky enough to see a bare bottom SPS-dominant reef aquarium done right. The display tank was very neat and clean. The aquascaping was minimalist and well thought out. I was definitely impressed with the build, and it's pushed me to consider going bare bottom for my next build. I've seen pictures of Coral Hind's last bare bottom build and it certainly looks impressive.

 

I'm currently sketching out a peninsula build with a Marineland 150G X-High (48x24x30) with 40B Sump. I have been reading up on Oceans Motion 4 way closed loop systems. A few have posted that closed loops are a pain to deal with if bulk heads leak, etc. My questions:

 

What do I need to do to make sure I design this Closed Loop system correctly? Check Valve on pump? Ball Valves? Bulk Heads?

Are bare bottom/Closed Loop systems only good for SPS dominant reefs? Would a mix reef be fine? (Acans, Lobo, Ricordeas, etc.)

How could I create a return manifold (reactors/calcium/etc) with the OM 4-way closed loop? Should I have two return pumps?

 

 

[firecrackerbob]

I cant help with the CL issues, but to your other question--I run BB with a mixed reef; standard overflow to sump and in display powerheads- mostly softies, with some SPS and LPS. I LOVE IT!!! I have struggled with algea issues and low coral growth for most of my time in the hobby. since I switched to BB, my tank went from looking like junk to looking spectacular in just under 9mo... I will never go back to substrate!

[Coral Hind]

I've never used a check valve on the closed loop pump, I can't think of why it would be needed. I would make sure the OM has valves and unions so it can be removed for cleaning.

 

A closed loop can be used for any reef, not just SPS but you will have to remember that flow is not needed nor liked by most softie and LPS so placement of the corals is important.

[DaveS]

I don't think you need check valves and you don't want manifolds going to reactors or other things. Keep the closed loop CLOSED. The idea is that, assuming the plumbing is good, there are no places for water from the tank to go except back into the tank. Plumbing a CA rx or something else into it means that if it fails, depending on where your bulkheads are, you could have all the water from your tank on the floor. Since the bulkheads are the weakest link in the closed loop and fixing them could require draining the tank, you should get high quality SCH80 bulkheads.

 

I have a CL with 8 holes in the bottom of my tank off 2 OM 4-ways and a Dart. Take a look at my build thread in my signature to see the plumbing. I like not having any powerheads...

Edited February 13, 2012 by DaveS

[rioreef]

no check valves but I put full union valves on the input and output sides of the pump on my CL. I also have a AquaUV inline on it with unions for that as well. I just cleaned my pump yesterday and the full unions made the process very simple. OM would need them for maintenance too..

[Omair]

I don't think you need check valves and you don't want manifolds going to reactors or other things. Keep the closed loop CLOSED. The idea is that, assuming the plumbing is good, there are no places for water from the tank to go except back into the tank. Plumbing a CA rx or something else into it means that if it fails, depending on where your bulkheads are, you could have all the water from your tank on the floor. Since the bulkheads are the weakest link in the closed loop and fixing them could require draining the tank, you should get high quality SCH80 bulkheads.

 

I have a CL with 8 holes in the bottom of my tank off 2 OM 4-ways and a Dart. Take a look at my build thread in my signature to see the plumbing. I like not having any powerheads...

 

So two pumps then, one for the closed loop and one for the return? Alright, that makes more sense. How sturdy is the OM-4? Does it require regular maintenance/cleaning?

 

As far as check valve on the closed loop pump; what if the pump fails? wouldn't the water in the DT siphon back down without a check valve on the pump?

[rioreef]

The OM will require maintenance. Sometimes the drums can get stuck because of debris or calcium buildup. The drums move slow inside of the OM's units, so buildup can occur.

 

If the pump fails on a closed loop or you cut power to the pump, the water neither goes down or up in the pipes because there is no opening in the system (air gap). No issues. But, do put unions before and after the pump as I said in my previous post for maintenance of the pump. If you ever remove the CL and pipes, then you will have to deal with creating that siphon gap (input/output) to prevent water coming down. You probably would not do this until you are breaking down the tank and you have much bigger issues to deal with then.

Edited February 13, 2012 by rioreef

[Omair]

Ah I see, thank you! What size pipe should I be running for the return to DT? 3/4"? 1"?

 

What kind of bulk heads should I use? Heavy Duty Sched 80 bulks heads?

 

 

And would a two 1.5" Elbows work as drains for the tank?

 

What would you recommend for a closed loop pump and return pump? Keep in mind that this will be for a mixed reef tank with a lot of LPS as well.

 

This tank will be in my common area in the living room so I would like it be as quiet as possible. Are reeflo pumps fairly silent? Blueline?

Edited February 13, 2012 by Omair

[DaveS]

The OM will require maintenance. Sometimes the drums can get stuck because of debris or calcium buildup. The drums move slow inside of the OM's units, so buildup can occur.

 

If the pump fails on a closed loop or you cut power to the pump, the water neither goes down or up in the pipes because there is no opening in the system (air gap). No issues. But, do put unions before and after the pump as I said in my previous post for maintenance of the pump. If you ever remove the CL and pipes, then you will have to deal with creating that siphon gap (input/output) to prevent water coming down. You probably would not do this until you are breaking down the tank and you have much bigger issues to deal with then.

 

Exactly what Rioreef said. That's the key point on a CL- no where for the water to go. The bulk head in the picture is the right kind. As you can see in my build thread, I have a Dart with a 1.5" drain feeding OMs that go out to 1" bulkheads. For a Dart, 1.5" is the smallest you want going in (it's a 2" fitting). How big the returns to the tank are will depend on various flow configurations. More splitting or turned down pump can mean smaller returns.