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How to use this RO/DI unit?


Cliff Puckstable

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Hello WAMAS, when I purchased my tank setup I was given a Coralife Pure Flo II RODI unit. This unit says it produces 100gpd. It is a 4 stage with and additional separate filter (I forgot to take pictures of this, but I'm sure you get the idea). So, it's actually a 5 stage. This thing has a dohicky on it which I believe is for an ATO system and for boosted water pressure. I want to simplify things and just run it pure water pressure without all the fancy switches and stuff. My waterline has a gauge that reads 100psi. I'm sure this is adequate pressure. My question is how do most people run their units? Does anyone have one of these units that could lead me to the right direction?

 

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What the jebus is all this stuff?

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To be honest with you, your best bet is to sell that to someone who is interested in what looks to be a booster pump. If that works it has some value.

 

It doesn't look like there are any filters in it and if it has been sitting and the membrane dried out it probably needs to be replaced. By the time you buy all that stuff you'll almost be at the price of a new unit (that won't look like Frankenstein built it).

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Hahaha, this thing is pretty hideous, eh? I need to buy all new filters and a new membrane. I was going to get in on next weeks group buy. I just double checked the water gauge, and it reads 90psi. It has a garden hose plumbed into that hardline, which is very convenient. I really don't want to bother with the booster pump. If I remove all the gadgets off of it, would someone be able to use it on their setup? I just want a functional unit that make me good water, you know?

 

Does water need to go from left to right, or right to left, or does it not matter? Water pressure is water pressure, right? Thanks hypertech.

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I bet it would take about $100 and a bunch of fiddling to get that to work right assuming all the parts like the flow restrictor are there. It doesn't even have the good push connect fittings. A new one can be had for $140-150. Less if that other canister is a DI in good condition.

 

Just buy this next week: http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/75-gpd-ro-di-5-stage-standard-system.html

 

The new one will come with all the fittings to connect to the supply line, be plumbed correctly and ready to hook up, and have instructions as to which line goes where. Then figure out if that booster pump works and sell it to offset your costs.

 

You could get that to work - it is just a plastic housing after all, but without being familiar with how it should be setup and how the water should flow through it (it does matter what direction t goes), I recommend just getting a new one.

Edited by hypertech
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Thanks for the picture. I will most likely be giving this unit away to someone that knows how to use it correctly. I don't want to take any chances with this. I have delayed my project for over a month now, and I don't want to delay it even further. I will be buying the last pieces of the puzzle in tomorrows group buy. Then, NO MAS!

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What the jebus is all this stuff?

 

 

I have this same 100gpd unit. Just over 2 years old now. I had the same reaction as you when I first got it. I love it though, never had any issues with it. "all this stuff" as you put it is a low water pressure pump shut-off and auto flush for the membrane. Very low water pressure into the unit (like incoming water was turned off) will turn the water pump off. And when water is turned back on to the unit it will turn the water pump back on and auto flush the membrane for 18 seconds. I have also added a separate DI canister after the membrane - it sounds like yours is setup this way too.

 

If you haven't already ordered a new unit or are just interested in getting this one running I can answer any other questions you have about it.

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And when water is turned back on to the unit it will turn the water pump back on and auto flush the membrane for 18 seconds.

Cool feature. It would be better, though, (in my opinion) if the flush could also happen just AFTER new water production - flushing trapped stuff before they've had a chance to react and precipitate on and clog the membrane. Still, any auto flush at either end of the water production cycle is a welcome convenience.

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