RO membrane problem

[hlem]

not sure what's going on, but my RO/DI unit isnt producing water. I checked the outlet of everything and water is coming out of everything but the final stage from the RO to the DI canister. The waste water from the RO is coming out still.

 

do i need to replace the RO membrane or what?

Edited January 29, 2011 by hlem

[Vadim]

do you have a flush adaptor on the unit? I know when my adaptor or knob is switched to flush, i don't produce any water, it just goes all to the waste line.

[hlem]

yep, my flush is working fine, when i turn it, i reduce the waste water output (like it should be), then i turn it the other way, i get full waste water (like it should be)

[Vadim]

what type of ro/di system you have?

 

 

[hlem]

http://www.airwaterice.com/product/1TYPHOONIII/TYPHOON-III-AQUARIUM-RODI-75-or-100-GPD.html

[Vadim]

ok i have the same system accept it's a 75 gpd. just so i understand. you take out your di and water will flow through?

[Origami]

Is your flow restrictor valve open? (It shouldn't be.) If not, the flow restrictor may not be doing it's job and may need replacing.

[Vadim]

To make DI/RO water, the valve positions:

Fast flush valve - Closed

DI Bypass valve - Closed

RO only valve - Closed

Product valve - Open

 

[hlem]

not sure which valve is which, but from the RO unit, the out to waste is letting water out, but when i close the waste part, the out to DI is not coming out

[Origami]

There are four valves on the Typhoon III. The RO sample port valve needs to be closed as does the flow restrictor / fast flush valve (it's not actually closed though, it's just restricting flow). The DI bypass valve needs to be closed, too. The only valve that is open is the RO/DI output valve.

[hlem]

i kinda messed around with the unit when i first got it, i only have 1 valve now.

 

here is how my unit work.

 

water in > filter 1>filter 2>filter 3 > RO unit water in.

 

RO got 2 out, one is to waste with a valve, second is to DI canister, DI to product water. right now, there RO to DI is not working, no water coming out of that output.

[davelin315]

What's your water temperature and water pressure going into the membrane? You need minimum PSI to get through the membrane and with colder water in the winter time it makes it even harder to get water through. Typical minimum water pressure needed is 40PSI and ideal is 70-75PSI, ideal water temp is 76.

[hlem]

i usually set the temp for cool to the touch, not sure what temp exactly, and water is regular tab.

[davelin315]

I'd avoid using any hot water at all. Typically, hot water dissolves a tiny bit more from your pipes and that requires your RO/DI to work a little bit harder. Even water that is cool to the touch could be too warm (although it could be just right, too). If you need to heat the water up some to make it work right, run coiled tubing through a bucket of water and add a heater to it. It will heat it up ever so slightly as it runs through there and help your membrane do its job.

 

As far as tap water is concerned, the pressure can vary from one place to the next. Pressure can also vary seasonally. Pressure begins at the pumping station but as the water enters your house there is a pressure valve that determines how high or low the pressure is. It's adjustable but I wouldn't mess with it unless you know exactly what you are doing. If you turn the pressure up too high you could damage your plumbing and water heater if it gets too high. If you are going to try it, get a pressure gauge and hook it up first, make sure not to raise your PSI above about 75. My home is at about 74 with slight seasonal variations.