Where to buy aquarium glass/acrylic?

[jason the filter freak]

I did a search and found a few old threads with conflicting results on this and wasn't sure whats still valid or if opinions have changed.

I'd like to build something rimless around a 30 gal cube or so.

 

I also wanted to hear a bit more on the debate of acrylic v.s. glass I'm pretty sure I can avoid scratching the tank up what about clarity is it better to go with acrylic or low iron glass? I'm looking at building something with a coast to coast false wall overflow and have returns comming up through the bottom inside the tank v.s. in the overflow or over the rim.

[treesprite]

Gaithersburg Glass Co can special-order glass, as any glass shop could, including Starfire glass.

 

The appearance of coral coloration is interferred with by the tint in glass. The glass shop told me the tint in glass is due to iron and that there is nothing to be done about it, short of paying the high price for Starfire glass. In that regard, a person concerned with this tint effect might be inclined to choose acrylic rather than glass. This and tank weight are basically my reasons for thinking acrylic would be a good choice over glass, but my tendancy to scratch things makes me think getting an acrylic tank would be a bad idea for me personally.

 

Does acrylic develop the haze on it that glass sometimes seems to develop?

[BliffBlam]

What do you use to bond acrylic? Is it any harder to do then silicon glass together?

 

Just something to consider.

[Brian Ward]

What do you use to bond acrylic? Is it any harder to do then silicon glass together?

 

Just something to consider.

 

Acrylic is clearer than glass (you can find the exact specs online somewhere, or NAGA can tell you) - even starfire glass. But acrylic scratches.

 

Silicone will not properly bond acrylic, it only bonds to glass. For an acrylic tank you have to do a chemical weld with (typically) weld-on #3 or #4. This is not easy and takes a skilled craftsman since the joint surfaces need to be perfectly smooth with no gaps.

 

NAGA is now building both glass and acrylic tanks, so I would talk to him. You are also very close to Piedmont Plastics - they will sell you the acrylic and the tools/chemicals you need if you want to go the acrylic route.

[NAGA]

What do you use to bond acrylic? Is it any harder to do then silicon glass together.

 

 

Why Acrylic?...

 

Strength:

It is widely accepted that acrylic is 16-17 times stronger than glass of the same thickness, with much better impact resistance. Because the joints are chemically bonded, not simply siliconed together, they are also stronger as well, and much more appealing visually. They do not run the risk of blowing out as siliconed joints can. The strength of acrylic tanks give their owners the peace of mind knowing that their tank will not crack, shatter, or blow out unexpectedly.

 

Weight:

Acrylic is roughly half the weight of a glass tank built out of the same thickness materials. This allows for easier moving, installations, less expensive shipping, and will require less persons to get it to where it needs to be. You will not need to lie about the level of difficulty when soliciting help from friends to move your tank.

 

Better viewing properties:

Acrylic of any thickness is clearer than glass due to its natural composition and properties. It does not have a greenish tint and will not ever turn yellow, like the acrylics of yesterday could. Acrylic will not distort like glass will, especially when viewing your tank at an angle. It also has a better light transmission level. You will find few larger public displays that are not done out of acrylic.

 

Better insulating properties:

Acrylic will not conduct heat and cold as well as glass will, thus making it a better insulator by 20%. Acrylic aquariums will regulate and minimize temperature fluctuations better, giving you a more stable system. This characteristic also saves on electricity, as your heater (or chiller) does not need to work as hard.

 

Forming characteristics:

Because acrylic is a thermoplastic it can be formed in almost any way, which makes tank design possibilities almost limitless. Custom curves and bends are much easier to do with acrylic, and sometimes impossible to do with glass. Glass has limitations on size while acrylic does not. For many custom shapes and unique designs, there is no other choice. Spectacular viewing possibilities are available because of the versatility of acrylic. It is also possible for anyone to drill their own acrylic tank while it is often difficult to find somebody to drill a glass tank if you need it done. Acrylic tank joints are also more visually appealing as they are clear and do not require the use of silicone. They may also be rounded over for extra beauty as well as to eliminate sharp edges.

 

Acrylic is refinish able:

The one disadvantage of acrylic is that it scratches easier than glass. However, a wide variety of scratch removal kits are available to the consumer and are relatively easy to use. Scratches in glass are nearly impossible to remove. Scratches in acrylic are easily preventable with proper care and precautions. When cleaning the interior of your tank, do not go all the way down to the gravel line right away. Do the entire tank but leave an inch or two above the gravel line. Do this last. This reduces the chance that you will pick up a bit of gravel on your brush or magnet and scratch the tank. Trying to get too creative with decorations by stacking them up precariously has led to many scratches as well when they are toppled by fish or currents. Scratching is usually the #1 concern of persons considering an acrylic tank, and is easily preventable with proper care.

[NAGA]

Acrylic is clearer than glass (you can find the exact specs online somewhere, or NAGA can tell you) - even starfire glass. But acrylic scratches.

 

Silicone will not properly bond acrylic, it only bonds to glass. For an acrylic tank you have to do a chemical weld with (typically) weld-on #3 or #4. This is not easy and takes a skilled craftsman since the joint surfaces need to be perfectly smooth with no gaps.

 

NAGA is now building both glass and acrylic tanks, so I would talk to him. You are also very close to Piedmont Plastics - they will sell you the acrylic and the tools/chemicals you need if you want to go the acrylic route.

 

 

Brian,

 

just want to clarify the Weldon #3 #4 thing;

 

You will not find tank mfg.s using either of these solvents on aquariums. The larger aquariums in particular would not do well using either of those bonding agents. MC Bond is another one but, not nearly as popular and perhaps is a little better asthetically when your look at the joint clarity when the surfaces are properly machined. Now for the smaller stuff you will find some mfg.s using some of these common solvents but, their use is fairly limited. I say this and with most of those that have used these it is very hard to get a asthetically pleasing joint (ie. bubble free). The other issue is the strength of the joint not nearly where it needs to be if your concerned with it popping apart. You will find that tank mfg.s use their own "homemade" solvents as I do. They are made for their particular manufacturing environment and are customized for seasonal changes often. A lto of research and experience with mixing your own solvents has to be done in order to be able to put together a large acrylic tank. Not too long ago I gave a little of my concoction to a fellow member who builds equipment using acrylic, who normally uses Weldon products and the feedback I received is that my solven was the best they had ever used. Now after having said all of that Weldon #4 is certainly ok for the novice to make something that is 30 gallons or less. After that gallonage the risk goes up considerably and ones technique has to go up correspondingly to be able to have whats built stay together for years.

[steveoutlaw]

Jason-

Just a qualifier on the starfire thing. Starfire does make a difference on thicker glass, but I believe that on the thinner stuff (up to 3/8) you can't tell a difference. I know the glass shop I got my sump glass held up a piece of 1/4" starfire beside a piece of regular 1/4" glass and I couldn't tell which was which.......even putting light to it.

[Brian Ward]

Brian,

 

just want to clarify the Weldon #3 #4 thing;

 

You will not find tank mfg.s using either of these solvents on aquariums. The larger aquariums in particular would not do well using either of those bonding agents. MC Bond is another one but, not nearly as popular and perhaps is a little better asthetically when your look at the joint clarity when the surfaces are properly machined. Now for the smaller stuff you will find some mfg.s using some of these common solvents but, their use is fairly limited. I say this and with most of those that have used these it is very hard to get a asthetically pleasing joint (ie. bubble free). The other issue is the strength of the joint not nearly where it needs to be if your concerned with it popping apart. You will find that tank mfg.s use their own "homemade" solvents as I do. They are made for their particular manufacturing environment and are customized for seasonal changes often. A lto of research and experience with mixing your own solvents has to be done in order to be able to put together a large acrylic tank. Not too long ago I gave a little of my concoction to a fellow member who builds equipment using acrylic, who normally uses Weldon products and the feedback I received is that my solven was the best they had ever used. Now after having said all of that Weldon #4 is certainly ok for the novice to make something that is 30 gallons or less. After that gallonage the risk goes up considerably and ones technique has to go up correspondingly to be able to have whats built stay together for years.

 

Thanks for the info. I bought some of the materials to do small acrylic projects and they were out of weld-on, so I got the generic chemical equivalent (can't remember the name). It works well enough for what I do.

[jason the filter freak]

Hmmm thanks for the info I was going to use weldon and try and pull it off myself I don't want a very large tank at all in the 30 gallon range. I think because I'm not going to be messing with mounting a lot of corals in my new tank I can feel safe about not scratching the living H-E-double hockey sticks out of it. I am a bit worried about cleaning it of coraline algea though. and what to use for flow. Those vortechs seem nice but look like absolute crap on the sides of tanks and I can't do a coast to coast and put one on the back of my tank unless I do one of the internal box overflows...

[jason the filter freak]

I drew up some designs today I think I want to go with 22 wide by 21 or 20 front to back and 21 or 20 tall puts me in the 40 +/- 2 gal range the width is based purely on the width of T5 bulbs.