Boret June 3, 2009 Share June 3, 2009 I just got a new chiller and I plumbed everything (Sump [in overflow area] > chiller > refugium > sump [close to return pump intake]). I am supposed to run water at a min rate of 300gph and max of 600gph. The pump I had available with a rating of 490gph at 0' is not moving that much water. After reading a bit more I learned that the chiller itself will produce back pressure equivalent to 6' of head pressure. Therefore my current pump won't cut it. I am using flex tubing and I have probably a max of 1' of head loss and very little distance from the pump to the chiller. So I need a pump that will work under those conditions and be able to manage around 300 to 400 gph. My first thought was the MAG 7 $64.95. It provides 300 to 400 gph between 5' and 7' head height. (check full MAG lineup chart here) However, this pump will need 60-70W to operate (different values on different websites). Add to that the power that the chiller itself consumes and I am really pushing my circuit to the limit (if it is at all capable of running it all). Then I checked equivalent pumps with less consumption (Eheim pumps while excellent, will consume quite a bit of watts) I came up with these two: Rio Hyperflow pump 12. $39.85 Pumps 750 gph at 1 foot of head. Pumps 630 gph at 4 feet of head. Pumps 510 gph at 6 feet of head. Max head 9-1/2 feet. Uses 40 watts. Quiet One Model 3000 Aquarium Pump $44.95 780 gph max flow at 0 head feet. Max head 11.0 feet. Uses 40 watts. Any thoughts?? This is also making me reconsider the current MAG 9.5 that I use as my main return. At 93-100 Watts doesn't seem the most efficient pump. Maybe I should sell that one and get a bigger one than I can then split between return and feeding the chiller.... but then it seems to me that the chiller won't be as efficient, i seems that it would be like a loop only cooling a bit of water. I could put the chiller inline with the Close Loop that I have, but I am afraid the Little Giant 4 will be not enough to run water through all the feet of tubing, the Ocean Motions 4 and have enough power to really move water inside of the tank. Thanks!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boret June 3, 2009 Author Share June 3, 2009 No feedback? Come on guys I could use some advice on those pumps. They seems the way to go but maybe they are just not as reliable as the Mag even if they consume less.... or maybe the GPH numbers are not realistic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Origami June 3, 2009 Share June 3, 2009 No advice on the pump, Boret, but if you're so close to the circuit rating that 30-50 watts may put you over, I'd very much consider tapping off of or dropping another circuit in close to your set up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boret June 3, 2009 Author Share June 3, 2009 (edited) Thanks Tom. I know I know... I have to either tap on a third circuit or add dedicated ones. But so far the cost to do so has stopped me. I will have to do it at some point just for peace of mind. I don't think the extra 30-40 Watts will put me over, however, lately, I am considering trying to be more efficient and try to reduce my electric bill. I guess that is what happens when you are done installing everything and have to wait for corals to grow. I am iching to get involve in another DIY project!!! LOL MaybeI miss the smell of the PVC cement.... So far I have read online that Quiet One is a decent pump. I have no experience with it. In general I heard/read bad things of the Rio pumps... that's probably why it is the cheapest. Edited June 3, 2009 by Boret Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sdah0414 June 3, 2009 Share June 3, 2009 I have ran 2 quiet one pumps before (4000HH and 3000) They both performed very well. They didn't put out a lot of heat and lived up to their brand name. I have also ran Rio pumps before and never will again. Not sure about those specific models, but previous pumps have crapped out on me within months of purchase. FWIW I say go with the quiet one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boret June 3, 2009 Author Share June 3, 2009 Thanks sdah0414! I am kind of leaning that way too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blaze98 June 3, 2009 Share June 3, 2009 I like the mag 7, I have one running my return, and hasn't let me down yet. Check out www.fishnreef.com I think Nadir still has these on sale for $57 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m3fan8ic June 3, 2009 Share June 3, 2009 (edited) If I were to do it I would go with Mag7.. but I have plumbed my chiller with my return pump which also feeds my frag tank. I put a ball valve so I can reduce the pressure. below pic give your some idea how I have it. Only difference is that my frag and chiller lines are swapped and chiller drains in the main drain area.. Edited June 3, 2009 by m3fan8ic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zygote2k June 3, 2009 Share June 3, 2009 Why don't you run a "T" off your drain line to the chiller and let gravity do the work for you? Let the chiller drain into the sump. solution found. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boret June 3, 2009 Author Share June 3, 2009 (edited) zygote2k that is a great idea but wouldn't I need to run ALL of the overflow into the chiller? If I put a T wouldn't the flow try to find the path with less resistance? m3fan8ic that's a sweet setup you have in there. How do you know how much (gph) flow are you getting into the chiller? If I limit it with the valve as you have it prior to the chiller, wouldn't the water go up instead of feeding the chiller? (I guess I am not that good figuring out plumbing/flows/volume etc...) blaze98 is the one on sell really the same as the MAG 7? Because I see the mag with a different price. On the other hand, he does have the QuietOne 3000 at a good price. Edited June 3, 2009 by Boret Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zygote2k June 3, 2009 Share June 3, 2009 If you were to "T" off the flow from the drain, you could reduce the size of the pipe going to the chiller and to the sump. Only so much water can go through a certain diameter pipe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boret June 5, 2009 Author Share June 5, 2009 (edited) I am still a little bit confused as to how you can get the water to actually flow into the right side of the T instead of keep going down. What stops the flow from going into the sump instead of going sideways to the T into the Chiller? Do you place valve after the second T to limit the water from going into the sump? Edited June 5, 2009 by Boret Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zygote2k June 5, 2009 Share June 5, 2009 place a valve between the "T" going to the chiller and the sump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m3fan8ic June 5, 2009 Share June 5, 2009 m3fan8ic that's a sweet setup you have in there. How do you know how much (gph) flow are you getting into the chiller? If I limit it with the valve as you have it prior to the chiller, wouldn't the water go up instead of feeding the chiller? (I guess I am not that good figuring out plumbing/flows/volume etc...) My chiller is 1/3hp and it can handle about 8-25GPM and I just estimated the water flow from the drain line. I have it towards the lower side so more water can stay in the chiller. You are right water is going to main tank at same time it's going to chiller. It's working as one big cycle b/c main tank is draining the warm water back into to the sump and chiller is picking up and mixing it at same time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boret June 6, 2009 Author Share June 6, 2009 My chiller is 1/3hp and it can handle about 8-25GPM and I just estimated the water flow from the drain line. I have it towards the lower side so more water can stay in the chiller. You are right water is going to main tank at same time it's going to chiller. It's working as one big cycle b/c main tank is draining the warm water back into to the sump and chiller is picking up and mixing it at same time. I am going to look into your idea m3fan8ic. What I should do is replace the MAG 9.5 return with an external pump. Then I will have the power to put a manifold and run several things off that return, including the water change. Even though for water change I am looking into a thread in RC where a guy skims wet and drains the tank that way, eliminating more pollutants. (That's a whole different thread though) I could have the Chiller, Carbon reactor, and return to tank running of 1 single pump instead of the current 3 pumps I am using. If I ever add UV I could run it off that setup as well. zygote2k I feel like I am asking for disaster if I put any type of limitation on the overflow. If the chiller freezes or I close the valve too much I can overflow the main tank and flood the basement. Right now, with 1 and 1/2 inch pipe as overflow I have plenty of room to handle the water that is pumped back into the tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now