Sump

[droyal1110]

Hello.

 

DT - 90g

Sump - 30g

Mag 7 return

Skimmer - Octopus DNW 150 recirc.

 

Questions:

 

Is it worth doing a DSB and a fuge in the sump? I have heard mixed feelings on this but I'm still not convinced. I also wondered if the copepods really survive the trip (I'll be using a mag drive 7 for the return).

 

How tall should my baffles be? Do these regulate the overall height of the water during normal operation? How do I control the height of the water in the sump? I want to have 10 gallons of free space to help contain water if the pumps are off and what not.

 

Is it ok to use clear plastic tubing on the return and drain? The previous tank owner did for several years, I planned on doing pvc but if I can avoid it that's fine with me. I know it worked for him but I'd just like to hear the general consensus.

 

How big should the areas of the sump be? Meaning how much water at any given time should be in the return area and so on.

 

 

I have searched high and low for answers to only get brief incomplete ones. I have read melvesreef but still have these questions.

 

Any help is greatly appreciated.

[zygote2k]

In a 30 with baffles, skimmer, and return pump, you're not going to have much room for a DSB or a 'fuge and have room for overflow gallons. The DSB can be in the display tank and a 'fuge can either be a hang-on type or a smaller sump tank fed from the main sump or the DT. If you use clear tubing, there's always a chance that algae will grow in it and potentially clog it if light gets to it. You can also bend tubing in ways that traditional PVC can't. You could always get flexible PVC.

[droyal1110]

Oops I forgot to add that the skimmer will be run externally but the return pump will be in the sump (mag7 so yeah).

 

I think I'm going to look into the flexible PVC. I don't think I'm going to mess with the DSB, I don't want to run into any potential problems with that. However, I do want/need a refugium.

 

Will the baffles control the height of the overall water in the sump at any given time?

 

When I start this up for the first time, everything is connected, do I need to add water to account for the sumps volume?

 

Thanks.

[zygote2k]

There are virtually no issues with starting a DSB. 4"-6" of sand in the DT will be fine, though some here will say to add more sand.

The baffles won't control the height of the water in the sump- they are only for the reduction of micro bubbles and to slow the water as it works from one end to the other.

Add enough water to the system so everything works without sucking in air, then turn off the power and see how much water comes back into the sump. You'll easily be able to see how much water your system and sump can handle without overflowing. Make some marks showing "Low" and "High" on the sump and some marks in between showing 1 gallon increments.

[droyal1110]

So will the height in the sump depend on what my tank puts in and what my return takes out?

 

Should I fill everything up, no baffles in the sump, run the system, mark the line at operational level, put baffles in accordingly?

 

Or can I just get 8" tall baffles, put them in, and the sump will balance itself out?

[zygote2k]

You could fill everything up without the baffles in the sump and see how much water is needed to make sure the return pump does not suck air. That would be the low level. Turn off the pump and see how much water returns to the sump. The difference between the water level in the sump with the power off and the top of sump is the additional amount of water that you can add to the "low" mark to determine the "high" mark.

 

Ex: Sump is 20 inches tall. At the lowest level of water without sucking air, the water level is at 4". When you cut the power, the water in the sump rises to 16", leaving 4" left. The low mark is at 4" and the high mark is at 12" or just a little under to err on the side of caution.

 

You only need baffles if you are trying to eliminate microbubbles or you are trying to partition the sump for multiple uses.

[droyal1110]

Eureka I got it! Thanks for your help, thanks to everyone who has helped me with this. I went to BRK today and had it explained in person and it all makes sense now to me. I will hopefully be starting my tank build thread tomorrow =D

[kylemagoo]

You could fill everything up without the baffles in the sump and see how much water is needed to make sure the return pump does not suck air. That would be the low level. Turn off the pump and see how much water returns to the sump. The difference between the water level in the sump with the power off and the top of sump is the additional amount of water that you can add to the "low" mark to determine the "high" mark.

 

Ex: Sump is 20 inches tall. At the lowest level of water without sucking air, the water level is at 4". When you cut the power, the water in the sump rises to 16", leaving 4" left. The low mark is at 4" and the high mark is at 12" or just a little under to err on the side of caution.

 

You only need baffles if you are trying to eliminate microbubbles or you are trying to partition the sump for multiple uses.

 

Using your example would't the high mark be 8" not 12"? If the overlow adds 12" of water to the sump when the power cuts out, then the maximum amount of water you would want to have in a 20" sump when the pump is running would be just under 8", right? Am I missing something?