droyal1110

Everything currently pending: Stunner LEDs Eheim 1260 Both brute cans 80# of live sand Mp40 Sold: GFO Reef octopus skimmer Instant ocean salt Refractometer Live Rock Coralife Hqi light Tank 2 Swc skimmer Brs GFO reactor Will accept offers on the rest, I really need this stuff gone by early next week.

Everything currently pending: Stunner LEDs Eheim 1260 Both brute cans 80# of live sand Tank 2 Sold: GFO Reef octopus skimmer Instant ocean salt Refractometer Live Rock Coralife Hqi light

Everything currently pending: Stunner LEDs Eheim 1260 Both brute cans 80# of live sand Tank 2 Live rock Coralife Hqi light Sold: GFO Reef octopus skimmer Instant ocean salt Refractometer

Pending also: Coralife HQI light Live Rock Tank 2

Everything except the GFO, that is the only physical sale completed so far. The instant ocean, refractometer, and reef octopus 150 skimmer are pending.

UPDATE** All 4 stunner LEDs still available, person backed out. Just to clarify these are the 12" strips, they have 14" of cable in between each strip, and something like 8' of power cord. These were going to be used as atinics with my metal halide.

I guess I edited my original post too many times (stupid spelling errors...) Sold: BRS GFO Pending: All 4 stunner LEDs Reef Crystals Instant Ocean Refractometer Reef Octopus 150NW Skimmer

Sorry! Inbox is cleared. PM'd.

PM'd, thanks.

Hello and sorry for all the text, I need to explain a few things. This is kind of a bittersweet situation, I'm leaving the hobby because I'm buying my own place and I won't have the time or money for this anymore. Basically I'm selling everything I have, there is no livestock, there is a pretty big handful of miscellaneous things that aren't worth posting but can be thrown in if you make a purchase and it catches your eye while you're here. I will not part out tanks from stands from sumps. All lights, pumps, etc are separate but can be bundled with a tank for a cheaper price. For example, you want tank "A" with a protein skimmer, metal halide, mp40, you will get a better deal than buying it individually. I'm sure this is unnecessary but I don't want to confuse anyone, I'm not the best at explaining myself sometimes. Also, I will start with "*NEW*" if it is something that has never been used, there are a few. There are also a few things that have been lightly used when I couldn't help but trying them out... I basically bought a ton of stuff for a new tank setup but never got around to the setup. I can deliver tanks but I will not beyond 30 miles and it will be an extra $150 because I would have to enlist help and bribe friends for a truck. Basically, you should come here to pick up. You may be able to talk me into meeting you somewhere but for the most part I would prefer local pickup. The pictures aren't the greatest, I'll be glad to take more specific pictures or video if requested. I'll admit, things aren't spotless but anything with a motor was verified it works and got a vinegar and water soak. I will try to update this as things sell, thanks for looking. I don't want to post my address on here but pick up is in zip code 20137, if you need a physical address use 5303 Lee Highway Warrenton VA 20187, I'm about 5 miles off of Lee Highway from there. I'll PM you my address once you commit to a purchase Tank 1: Unknown make, glass, pre-drilled for drain only (I think its 1.5"), previously bought from Phisigs, dimensions are W-24", L-36", H-18", basically 70 gallons, black painted back, comes with a tall stand that measures W-25", L-38", H-48", I have doors for it but they aren't mounted permanently, I basically wanted it accessible from all 4 sides of need be, panels are removable and I couldn't decide what I wanted to do about the front (if I wanted to make a door or use magnets also.) They have one coat of stain but obviously can be stained more if you so choose. It also comes with a custom sump made of acrylic from NAGA which is designed to create total system gallons, fits the SWC skimmer I have for sale, fits the Eheim 1260, has a large open area for a refugium, and can hold backflow in the event of a power outage. This also comes with a brand new glassholes overflow kit, all plumbing and fittings (I was going flex PVC and flex hose for the return,) and an 18" fluorescent worklight that needs to be mounted. Stand, panels, sump, tank, bulkheads are all together, none of it will be parted out. $600 Back of stand Panels/Door Sump Top view of Sump Tank lying on its viewing side with back facing up Glassholes overflow kit Tank 2: Unknown make, corner overflow, pre-drilled 1" drain and 3/4" return, pre-built stand, custom built canopy (nothing fancy,) comes with blue moonlight LEDs, has hole's drilled for fans but fans need to be replaced, dimensions are W-18" L-24" H-48", 90 gallons, comes with a 40 gallon breeder for a sump with no baffles, egg crate for the bottom (if you're using rocks,) and a mag 7 return pump. $325 When I was first setting it up (not plumbed, no bulkheads) Canopy Reef Octopus DNW 150 Recirculating Protein Skimmer including a feed pump (MJ1200) $165 While it was in use bulk reef supply GFO/Carbon reactor deluxe: needs new reactor , comes with MJ1200 $30 *NEW* 16" Sunlight supply reef optix plus 1 reflector, 250w ice cap ballast, 20k radium bulb $275 *NEW*(4 of them) 453nm Blue Stunner LED strips with reflectors and power cable/transformer (Don't look at these directly, seriously) $185 *NEW* Eheim 1260 $130 moonlight white led $5 *NEW* 80lbs of unopened Caribsea Arag-alive Hawaiian sand $40 4 of these *NEWISH used for about 2 weeks* SWC Xtreme 160 Cone Protein Skimmer $250 *NEWISH used for about a month* Vortech Mp40wES $385 I still have the box and tank stick pad/zip ties JBJ auto top off and system $85 RIO 1100 pump $10 RIO 1400 pump $15[/b] *NEW* 4 Lbs UNOPENED Bulk reef supply GFO $50[/b] Air water and Ice Typhoon III RO/DI with TDS meter, float valve, direct water line tap, and fitting and hose, filters might need to be changed soon $140 Backup air pump $5[/b] Captive purity refractometer $20 3 out of 4 bags unopened of Instant Ocean Reef Crystals for 150 gallons $40 Coralife HQI tank mount, its an XM 20k bulb, fan died on it but the bulb still works great, bulb only used for about 3 months $115 Heavy duty bulkhead, I think its for 1.5" if someone wants to tell me how to measure properly I can double check it $5 Rock, not sure how many pounds, I'd guess easily at least 100Lbs, its 3/4 full in a 55 gallon brute can $65 if you bring a scale we can weigh it and rework the price if need be (I don't have a scale that will work.) Rubble from my 'fuge, a few man made pieces $25 2 - 55 gallons brute cans with rollers and lids $65 each rubbermaid (i think) 55 gallon container with a cracked handle and a lid $10 Ok I think that's it, haha.

I was in the same boat as you, I resorted to Boyd's Chemiclean. I just made a bunch of saltwater at the start of the journey; I siphoned off the large chunks using a small diameter line hooked up to a bucket to avoid having to do an instant water change (maybe pulled out a quarter of a gallon in the end) shut off the skimmer, dosed about half recommended, let it marinate for the designated time (I think 48 hours) and it worked! I did a water change, siphoned off any chunks that may have been left, cut the skimmer back on (low! Chemiclean makes it go nuts) and have been good since. I didn't remove any of my inverts, anemones, corals, fish, nothing was harmed in the dosing. However I did invest in an air pump and some good air stones and ran it in the tank to help keep it extra aerated (don't know why but the directions say you need to so I did.) Definitely change the bulbs if they are going bad, just because you don't have any bad phosphates doesn't mean they aren't there. It just means something could be producing it and something could be consuming it (cyano or types of algae) before it can be detected. Also just do a 50% water change over a 2 day span, preferably after you are done dosing chemiclean. Good luck!

Well my main concern is letting the tank run without a skimmer for that long, plus restarting the fuge. I think it would be safer for me to scrap the fuge, buy new sand, put the chaeto in the display, and all the extra live rock in the display, and just start all over. Sorry but kind of funny about the cat wiz I'm always afraid of a tank crash related to disturbing the balance to suddenly or disturbing the sand bed. The worst part is its impossible for me to remove the sump without breaking down the display, not in one piece anyways. I think I'm just going to take this time to shut the sump side of things down, following a decent water change, redo my sump baffles, replant a fuge, redo my plumbing and return, probably buy a new skimmer. I love doing this stuff... minus the cramped area I'm going to have to do it in.

It threw the equilibrium off because it altered the water level in the sump and pushed my ATO sensor to the side, so now the water level went down and the sensor moved down allowing the salinity to go up enough to irritate me but not enough to wreck anything... on top of that there is less space holding the return section so the ATO is constantly running, I realize the evaporation rate is the same I just don't know why this is the way it is. So the general consensus is to drain the sump and glue glass in? =( This saddens me deeply, I really wanted to avoid the trouble and avoid disturbing the fuge, it had been doing so well.

Hello, Recently my baffles on my return side of my sump came unglued and just kind of collapsed which ultimately minimized my return area and expanded the refugium portion. My mistake was gluing acrylic to glass using silicone. So I come to you today to ask what can I do to fix this issue. As of right now everything is still in operation however the water levels are off and it kind of threw the equilibrium off for the tank. I've heard of some people just reapplying silicone in the water and just letting it cure even longer, has anyone tried this and had success? I was thinking of using a ton of frag glue (super glue) and hoping for the best. Thanks in advance.

I seem to recall the Aqua Company using this setup on a few of their tanks. Seems pretty straight forward to me however I don't dose.

I got my acro and acro crab from F&F too! I had no idea such a thing existed until I was dipping my acro and I saw him fall off. I scrambled to throw him in the tank and the next day he was back in the same acro, doing well to this day.

From personal experience I've gotten live rock from Blue Ribbon Koi, The Marine Scene, and The cozy clownfish (now aquatic obsessions). I'm picky about what my rock looks like and it would be nice if they were colored up but most are not under lights. I got my pieces with coraline from the cozy clownfish when they used to keep them under PCs with other stuff, now they still have some but not as much, however they are still under lights and you might get a nice hitchhiker because they're in the intervert tanks.

I too am worried about my stealth heater and I plan on switching it out. Granted I'm sure its fine, I'll just retire it to my water change bucket to heat up the water when mixing, but no livestock or myself really at risk so long as its unplugged before I touch the water. Yes, everyone knows suction cups suck... thats why you need these mag clips. They work great, I use them with my thermometer and heater, sure its a little pricey since that is for 1 magnet, however its worth it to me.

http://www.ebaumsworld.com/video/watch/80833029/ Never seen anything like it before, all those inverts going to one place.

Well I was originally thinking I wanted to do kalk but I Just have this overwhelming fear of my ATO malfunctioning and just wrecking my tank, plus I don't want to put my ATO on a timer to where it only comes on at night and I don't think my evaporation is exactly fixed its just ahh... I don't know if I want to go that route just yet. What do I need to know to get into 2 part? I have some Bionic 2 part that someone gave me but it has just been sitting not getting used. How do I know how much to do, in other words I know nothing about dosing. All help is much appreciated. Also if I go this route I will probably do it manually everyday, unfortunately with my schedule I'm not available to do such a thing everyday, what about some form of automation? Thanks

If you're going to be replacing the rock you could either try to break the epoxy or frag plug the corals are attached to the rock with or just chisel the rock and extract a piece you need. No idea on acrylic. If you're going totally new rock you're pretty much going to have to cycle. You could go buy live rock and put it in your tank for about a month to make sure its nice and seeded. You'll need to transport the live rock in water to minimize die off because you don't want to cycle your tank again. If you get dry rock just rinse it really well and let it cure in your tank for a month or two, get some color and bacteria on it.

Where did you get the chemi clean from? I'm thinking of trying this myself, I've just exhausted all options.

IMO it all depends on your livestock, tank size, money constraints. If you have a few easy fish like chromis and clownfish and you have a decent sized QT tank, you could put them in there with some liverock while you get your other tank squared away. I assume you're going to restart the tank they are currently in and I do not recommend leaving the livestock in the tank while you are removing the sand. Again if money wasn't an issue I would do this: If you have a sump, just flood the sump so the water level is over the baffles, stick a heater in it, and give it good water flow (essentially treat it like a display.) Do a whole bunch of water changes and keep the water you took from the current tank in a brute can that is aerated, good water flow, and heated. Once you get a enough water in the can I would go ahead and move the livestock and the rock over, trying to keep the rock exposure to air at a minimum (have the can right next to the tank.) Once all the livestock and rock is moved over, go ahead and either drain the tank (dispose this water, all the rock moving around will stir up a ton of junk) and remove the sand or remove the sand while there is still water inside. I would utilize this time to make any major modifications that you always wanted to (if you wanted to upgrade your sump but couldn't remove the sump due to it only being able to come out of the opening at the top or whatever the case is, new plumbing, etc.) Once the tank is cleaned to your liking, do a water change with the brute can, this way you are getting the water teeming with bacteria back in the tank all while keeping things happy in the brute can, keep doing this until your full, don't move the livestock over just yet. Move almost all of the rock over (I'd leave a little in the brute can for the sake of having beneficial bacteria in there.) I'd wait overnight, check params of the tank (pumps on everything flowing.) If everything checks out, move over everything else and monitor your params over the next few days closely. Also buy more pumps or redirect pumps towards the glass bottom to keep it cleaner. Now I have never done this but this is what I would do, essentially just like a prolonged tank swap. You could probably do this over the course of half a day but if it takes longer no biggie, just make sure the brute can is aerated and the lights are on over it. Hope this helps.

The kalk reactor is by no means to replace doing water changes. However since I can't do one several times a month now I can't rely on the waterchange to replace the used up elements, mainly Ca, plus I've had a surplus of SPS in my tank recently and I want them to do well. I originally swore off dosing but I think kalk is a bit more feasible and less expensive in comparison to Ca reactors. Yea I was thinking of running the kalk only at night but I'm not quite sure how I would accomplish this. I use a jbj ato so it has the auto shut off (set to 7 minutes) through a toms aqualifter. In 7 minutes there isn't enough water (even if it stuck open) to make a dent in my systems day, however with kalk I guess it could be a little more detrimental. The other problem I have with this (because I had no idea how exactly it works) is that my ato isn't always consistent. If I had to guess I'd say I go through about 8 gallons a week of top off, however when it kicks on and off it is random really, its not rhythmic at all. With that said I don't want to set my ATO to be on only at night either, granted there wouldn't be huge swings I just like my water level to be constant. Has anyone done something to get around this? What are most peoples setups... ato and kalk reactor set to as needed or timers or what? Oh and I run a fuge, lights on at night, PH doesn't drop a whole lot at night, I'll do further testing to verify how much it does. Thanks for the help guys.

I have been reading up on kalkwasser, what it is, what its used for, and what not on reefkeeping articles. I've looked at different setups but I'm still a bit confused. I would really like to just hear the general consesus, whether people suggest it or not, I don't think I have enough SPS to need a Ca reactor, plus I don't really want to spend that much. I'm thinking my preferred method of dosing will be a GSA Kalk reactor. How do I know how much to put in, pros and cons of a reactor, things to watch out for or do differently, all in all is it worth it? I just can't keep up with water changes, more so in the winter and I'm adding more and more SPS, I think its time to supplement. Thanks!