Lighting

[Terps]

I am looking to move one of my 180s from FOWLR to putting some coral and I need some lighting advice. I have been screwing up/learning fish only for a year or two now and I have no idea what I'm doing in the reef arena. I think I have already screwed up my lighting situation so please help! My first attempt at reef lighting I bought from a member who had a 180 so I figured I was in good shape! This was 2 400W MH moguls and 2 VHO(?) actinics on this crappy 4 foot reflector thing that I guess was in a hood. I do not have a hood and my lights are behind a wall so this seemed like a bad setup to me (light escaping everywhere). In an attempt to band-aid this lighting I bought a couple of pendants/reflectors which I didn't realize wouldn't work with my current ballast, so I ended up buying new ballasts. Well, now I am getting the sense that I don't really need 400W and I want to punt and get rid of all I have now and get a nice all in one unit....should I shoot for some kind of 250W HQI / actinic combo or stick with a 400W? I think I definitely need 3 bulbs whether they are MH mogul or HQI for a 6 foot length, right? not 2!

 

I know it all depends on what corals I will be keeping, but I am not sure really and would like the lighting to not restrict whatever I want to try in the future.

[Sugar Magnolia]

I know it all depends on what corals I will be keeping, but I am not sure really and would like the lighting to not restrict whatever I want to try in the future.

Exactly! I'm not a large reef keeper (30g) but I know that the spread for halides is 24" so 3 would be correct. You'll probably get lots of good input on the best combo, but I would think that three 250W along with some type of supplemental actinic would suffice.

[amay121]

3 250MH is good, supplement with T5s though instead of the VHO. Just my opinion.

[Terps]

3 250MH is good, supplement with T5s though instead of the VHO. Just my opinion.

 

Thanks! I had a feeling those 400's were too much. I just found this post which I will try to sort through: Lighting Discussion for a similarly sized tank (220)

Edited December 10, 2008 by Terps

[Terps]

Ok, another dumb question (or two)... what is HQI MH? is that the same as double-ended? Do I want those instead of the Mogul type screw in bulbs?

 

And what about these expensive lighting units with the MH, Actinics, and Moonlights all in one? It seems everyone does the "DIY" thing by buying reflectors, ballasts, bulbs, etc and putting it all together. Is that because doing it DIY gives better lighting or to save on the cost of the all-in-one units?

[gastone]

Going with a pendant vs. a DIY canopy is your choice. IMO pendants are better suited when you want a clean, open top look. Canopies are used better suited in integrate existing furnishings/cabinetry. Then again, that's not a concrete ideal. Go with what you want. Doing a DIY canopy allows for quite a bit of customization, while the pendant you are using stock ballast, reflectors, cooling, etc. I've seen people swap out reflectors and ballast even in high end pendants costing in the thousands of dollars.

 

That being said, my advice for halide lighting is to first pick out the lamp you want to use. Look around at other tanks, online galleries, the dedicated tank forum, fish stores, etc. Find the color/lighting that you like best. Once you've picked your lamp, you'll be able to pair it with the appropriate spec'd ballast and the best reflector to maximize it's efficiency.

 

Then you'll need to decide if you want to supplement (like Amay I prefer T5 to VHO). Knowing which halide lamp you are going with will help you to decided which color supplement to go with (blue or actinic generally speaking).

 

If on the other hand you go with T5 only lighting you'll have a seemingly limitless array of color combinations. Again, look around to find the color/spectrum you want to replicate. You should always use individual reflectors with T5, which is what makes them so efficient. You'll want to decide if you want to overdrive them (which will shorten the bulb's lifespan), or go with standard ballasts. If you do go with T5, pick up extra lamps so you can experiment on your own. If nothing else, try to solicit free, used bulbs off of other members to do this.

 

If you do go with a canopy you'll also want to consider cooling the bulbs/ballasts.

 

Garrett.

[zygote2k]

Stick with the 2) 400's and get a better reflector. You'll kick yourself later if you go with smaller wattage bulbs.

2 400's over a 6 or 8 foot tank is fine-you'll have plenty of light to grow anything. No need for T-5's- just go with 12k.

[jamesbuf]

For a 6' long tank, I don't think you'll get anywhere near the spread you need with just two metal halide bulbs, even when using high-end reflectors. The light just doesn't disperse that much.

[Terps]

Stick with the 2) 400's and get a better reflector. You'll kick yourself later if you go with smaller wattage bulbs.

2 400's over a 6 or 8 foot tank is fine-you'll have plenty of light to grow anything. No need for T-5's- just go with 12k.

 

I don't mind getting a third pendant/bulb/ballast if that is the way to go but most of what I heard so far is that the 400s are too much. Is that not true? I can use these down the line?

[lhcorals]

I was told that unless you have a really deep tank 250 watts will do the job. I have a 265 and run (3) 250 watt double ended Metal Halides and (8) T-5'S. It's made by Current, it's 6' long. Also has 12 white and 12 blue lunars. I agree with the people that say you won't get enough coverage with 2 400 watt Halides. Take your time and do research, This is probably the most costly expence.

[dschflier]

My suggestion would be to go check out as many WAMAS setups with 6 foot tanks as you can before spending another dime. Many members with various corals have 6' setups. After you do this you can have a bit better idea as to what might work for you and what you want to spend your money on.

[zygote2k]

On my 40 gallon breeder, I use a 400w 10k w/ 2x32w pc's. On the 150 (6' long), I use a 400w 14k on one side and a 150w 20k on the other side. On the 90, I use 2) 250w 14k's and 4xT5's.

If I were to make my dream tank- it would be lit by 2-3 1000w MH's and a big chiller.

Go with strong lighting- you can't go wrong. People like 250's because they are plentiful and more readily available. For almost the same heat output you could go with the 400's. You already have them- why not use them? Don't be afraid of the 400's

[lhcorals]

On my 40 gallon breeder, I use a 400w 10k w/ 2x32w pc's. On the 150 (6' long), I use a 400w 14k on one side and a 150w 20k on the other side. On the 90, I use 2) 250w 14k's and 4xT5's.

If I were to make my dream tank- it would be lit by 2-3 1000w MH's and a big chiller.

Go with strong lighting- you can't go wrong. People like 250's because they are plentiful and more readily available. For almost the same heat output you could go with the 400's. You already have them- why not use them? Don't be afraid of the 400's

 

 

If you do research there is quite a bit of difference in heat output. 400 watters are just as available as the 250's. One problem with the 400 watt is you will likely need a chiller.

[zygote2k]

If you do research there is quite a bit of difference in heat output. 400 watters are just as available as the 250's. One problem with the 400 watt is you will likely need a chiller.

This is misinformation.

I can personally show you a tank that has a 400w and a 150w in an enclosed hood that doesn't use a chiller. There are 2) 4" exhaust fans only. The tank stays around 76 in the winter and 79 in the summer.

 

I can also show you a 40 gal tank with a 400w that needs a heater to stay above 74.

 

As far as 400w bulbs being readily available, a search of the LFS's revealed plenty of 250 moguls and DE's, and very few if any 400 moguls and no 400 DE's.

Maybe people use 250's because they cost less than a 400.

As far as light spread is concerned, the 400 lights the whole 36" long 40 breeder and the big tank is illuminated enough to grow SPS as well.

 

If you can find the research showing heat output of a 400w vs. a 250w, and the spread of light from a metal halide, please post the link(s) here.

Edited December 16, 2008 by zygote2k

[lhcorals]

This is misinformation.

I can personally show you a tank that has a 400w and a 150w in an enclosed hood that doesn't use a chiller. There are 2) 4" exhaust fans only. The tank stays around 76 in the winter and 79 in the summer.

 

I can also show you a 40 gal tank with a 400w that needs a heater to stay above 74.

 

As far as 400w bulbs being readily available, a search of the LFS's revealed plenty of 250 moguls and DE's, and very few if any 400 moguls and no 400 DE's.

Maybe people use 250's because they cost less than a 400.

As far as light spread is concerned, the 400 lights the whole 36" long 40 breeder and the big tank is illuminated enough to grow SPS as well.

 

If you can find the research showing heat output of a 400w vs. a 250w, and the spread of light from a metal halide, please post the link(s) here.

 

I think the reason you dont find a big selection at your LFS is because they are not in that high of demand, due to more people run 250 watters. On the Web and in the Aquarium catalog's you can find quite a few 400 watt bulbs. There was a post either here or RC about heat exchange. How high do you have the lights above the tank? You must have the 40 gal in a pretty cool area or the lights well above the tank. And as far as the coverage area , if you have the light high above the tank the coverage will be more. My wife's Nano (25 gal) has a 150 watt on it and is constantly at 80 and that is with a Iceprobe Thermoelectric Aquarium Chiller.

Edited December 17, 2008 by lhcorals

[Sugar Magnolia]

My 250W halide is about 10" above the 30 cube and if I don't turn the fan on, the tank temp will rise about 6-8 degrees.

[Terps]

This is misinformation.

I can personally show you a tank that has a 400w and a 150w in an enclosed hood that doesn't use a chiller. There are 2) 4" exhaust fans only. The tank stays around 76 in the winter and 79 in the summer.

 

I can also show you a 40 gal tank with a 400w that needs a heater to stay above 74.

 

As far as 400w bulbs being readily available, a search of the LFS's revealed plenty of 250 moguls and DE's, and very few if any 400 moguls and no 400 DE's.

Maybe people use 250's because they cost less than a 400.

As far as light spread is concerned, the 400 lights the whole 36" long 40 breeder and the big tank is illuminated enough to grow SPS as well.

 

If you can find the research showing heat output of a 400w vs. a 250w, and the spread of light from a metal halide, please post the link(s) here.

 

I am already running a chiller on this tank so the heat should not be a problem anyway. What is it exactly I lose by not having 400s? What is the benefit. Also, in regards to price... I am not seeing that much price difference between 250 and 400 in terms of the ballast/bulb/relfector&pendant - maybe about $50-60 per ballast?

[zygote2k]

I believe more wattage equals more intensity and further depth penetration.

[DEEPBLUE]

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