squiddly July 4, 2008 Share July 4, 2008 I'd rather not just rip them out and kill them, but these guys are everywhere. My tank is covered with em. Not sure how to get them off the rocks even, but if you know how and would like to have some, just let me know, although I have the feeling they might be in the "pest" category. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highland Reefer July 4, 2008 Share July 4, 2008 Just curious, what are your nitrate readings? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
squiddly July 5, 2008 Author Share July 5, 2008 Just curious, what are your nitrate readings? About 30. I'm having troubles with that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lanman July 5, 2008 Share July 5, 2008 I'd rather not just rip them out and kill them, but these guys are everywhere. My tank is covered with em. Not sure how to get them off the rocks even, but if you know how and would like to have some, just let me know, although I have the feeling they might be in the "pest" category. You mean the thin-branched sinularia?? Like this one: http://www.fishdb.com/db/salt/specimen/Thi...ather_Coral.php Grow them and sell them! bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highland Reefer July 5, 2008 Share July 5, 2008 Once your nitrates drop, then their growth should slow way down. The nitrates are like fertilizer to them & xenia. Water changes, installing a DSB and/or a refugium with macro algae & cutting back on your feeding schedule should work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
squiddly July 5, 2008 Author Share July 5, 2008 (edited) Once your nitrates drop, then their growth should slow way down. The nitrates are like fertilizer to them & xenia. Water changes, installing a DSB and/or a refugium with macro algae & cutting back on your feeding schedule should work. If only :-) Seriously, I've got a refugium, I've got macro algae everywhere, I cut way back on feeding already, and I do as many water changes as I can. It's a 180 so it's a big tough to manage but I'm doing my best. What is a DSB? I would love to get the nitrates down.... Then I could grow "real" corals :-). I do think you're spot on, however, as my 40 has 2 of the boogers and that's it. No more. Its nitrates are under 10. Thanks! Edited July 5, 2008 by squiddly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lanman July 5, 2008 Share July 5, 2008 DSB = Deep Sand Bed. bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
squiddly July 5, 2008 Author Share July 5, 2008 DSB = Deep Sand Bed. bob Oh duh...thank you. I have 2 inches in there now. I suppose I could add more and re-aquascape..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
civitan.erichanson July 5, 2008 Share July 5, 2008 There should be a thread just fro Nitrate issues... I am not running a refugium or HOB - but I have a 4" DSB and I am running at 20 PPM Nitrates. Feeding every other day. Would a sand shifting star fish or anything else help with the DSB? Thanks, Eric. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highland Reefer July 5, 2008 Share July 5, 2008 (edited) When I first started my nitrates were at 80. It took me 6 months to get my nitrates under control. Nitrates have always been a problem in reefing & some people just don't worry about them. But it can be conquered. I think Bob Lanman has become an expert with his large system now. DSB = 4" - 6". One could plumb a 5 gallon bucket filled with the sand except for the top 2-4" into their system or simply add sand on top of the existing. Any kind of stirring of DSB's is not recommended because of the possible sudden release of some toxicants in it, like your Sulfides. A DSB may take 6 months to really kick-in depending on the size of the system. Edited July 5, 2008 by Highland Reefer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
squiddly July 5, 2008 Author Share July 5, 2008 When I first started my nitrates were at 80. It took me 6 months to get my nitrates under control. Nitrates have always been a problem in reefing & some people just don't worry about them. But it can be conquered. I think Bob Lanman has become an expert with his large system now. DSB = 4" - 6". One could plumb a 5 gallon bucket filled with the sand except for the top 2-4" into their system or simply add sand on top of the existing. Any kind of stirring of DSB's is not recommended because of the possible sudden release of some toxicants in it, like your Sulfides. A DSB may take 6 months to really kick-in depending on the size of the system. Think it would help if I put it in the fuge? Or would I lose some of the benefits of the fuge? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee Stearns July 5, 2008 Share July 5, 2008 1)use nothing but RO/DI for top off 2)good skimming, 3) macro algea in a fuge growing 24/7 4)top off water goes through a kalk reactor of some type to keep PH up 5)and of couse calcium and alkalinity balanced in appropriate range 6) DSB(6inches or more) is more of a preference and IMHO should be relegated to the refuge if desired. 2-3 inches seems the mixed reef standard for most peoples viewing tank. It and works well a a buffer, bio diversity area, and nessecity for many wrasses and gobies. These will keep the nitrates in check in order of priority that I would install them- I am talking the 0-3 PPM range. If you are running any bio balls I would list slowly removing them at the top of the list. I have not come across a mixed reef tank that will not balance out in the 0-3 range doing the above. Water changes will move the tank in the right direction if made with RO/DI. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
squiddly July 6, 2008 Author Share July 6, 2008 1)use nothing but RO/DI for top off 2)good skimming, 3) macro algea in a fuge growing 24/7 4)top off water goes through a kalk reactor of some type to keep PH up 5)and of couse calcium and alkalinity balanced in appropriate range 6) DSB(6inches or more) is more of a preference and IMHO should be relegated to the refuge if desired. 2-3 inches seems the mixed reef standard for most peoples viewing tank. It and works well a a buffer, bio diversity area, and nessecity for many wrasses and gobies. These will keep the nitrates in check in order of priority that I would install them- I am talking the 0-3 PPM range. If you are running any bio balls I would list slowly removing them at the top of the list. I have not come across a mixed reef tank that will not balance out in the 0-3 range doing the above. Water changes will move the tank in the right direction if made with RO/DI. Thank you for the specific and concrete (and quick) answers. Right now I use only RO/DI filtering for top off, I have a skimmer that kicks serious butt :-), macro algae in the fuge, but it's not 24/7. I can change that. I don't know a kalk reactor from a nuclear one, and I haven't worried about calcium since I don't have anything but spaghetti finger leathers, and a few star corals and a shroom or two in there. I'll be happy to change that idea if I should do that despite not having the hard corals in there. I'm going to put some more sand in the refugium because it sure can't hurt. I really appreciate you guys and the I'm sure tedious nature of repeating this stuff over and over again. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancer99 July 6, 2008 Share July 6, 2008 I'm going to put some more sand in the refugium because it sure can't hurt. IMHO a DSB is the best cure for nitrates. I have them in all my tanks, and my nitrates never get above 1.0, assuming my Salifert test kit is correct. Just my 2 pesos, others have very strong anti-DSB opinions -R Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lanman July 6, 2008 Share July 6, 2008 1)use nothing but RO/DI for top off 2)good skimming, 3) macro algea in a fuge growing 24/7 4)top off water goes through a kalk reactor of some type to keep PH up 5)and of couse calcium and alkalinity balanced in appropriate range 6) DSB(6inches or more) is more of a preference and IMHO should be relegated to the refuge if desired. 2-3 inches seems the mixed reef standard for most peoples viewing tank. It and works well a a buffer, bio diversity area, and nessecity for many wrasses and gobies. These will keep the nitrates in check in order of priority that I would install them- I am talking the 0-3 PPM range. If you are running any bio balls I would list slowly removing them at the top of the list. I have not come across a mixed reef tank that will not balance out in the 0-3 range doing the above. Water changes will move the tank in the right direction if made with RO/DI. You think the fuge should run 24/7?? I have mine on opposite light cycle plus an hour on each end. If 24/7 would take care of more nitrates - I'm certainly up for it. bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highland Reefer July 6, 2008 Share July 6, 2008 I have mine on 24/7. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Zimzdoodle July 7, 2008 Share July 7, 2008 You mean the thin-branched sinularia?? Like this one: http://www.fishdb.com/db/salt/specimen/Thi...ather_Coral.php Grow them and sell them! bob If you have growing in your tank like Bob showed via the weblink then you my friend should sell those. I think they are beautiful Good luck with getting your nitrates down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmubeach July 7, 2008 Share July 7, 2008 What kind of fish do you have in your tank please include size:)? As for the coral trade it into your local fish store for credit:) sell it on craigslist(strange people come to your house) or give it away for free its really up to you.... Oh and how often are you doing water changes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee Stearns July 8, 2008 Share July 8, 2008 I started the same way thinking balance PH by running fuge on reverse cycle of the main tank lights. It works as my son conducted a high school lighting experiment on cycles using two nano cubes as closely mirror stocked as possible. Of note copepod production is a bit better with some lights off time. I actually run my main tank's fuge reverse cycle but maybe 18 hours. On my 54 corner and many other tanks I have seen the fuge lights are run 24/7. It can not hurt as a step to bring down Nitrates- but one must keep their chaeto trimmed back to allow room for it to grow. When it gets too thickly matted it slows down its growth. You can add a bit of calurpa which grows much faster than chaeto, but is not stable and should be used sparingly for this purpose in the fuge. I also run a bit of carbon which is not just for Nitrates, but believe that carbon can be and often is over used, which is why I do not list it in my things to lower nitrates. Nitrate sponges are also effective if you are fighting a large algea bloom due primarily to nitrates. Purigen is one that I favor if that is the case- It can be recharged using bleach then thouroughly dried and reused several times. But I would not like to depend on it long term. Just MHO Regards, Lee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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