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Guest satellite62

When I was using Instant Ocean my calcium reading was 400 ppm using an API test kit. I switched over to Reef Crystals and this reading dropped to 380 ppm. I have been dosing with Kent Marine Tech CB parts A and B for about five days (using 40 ML per day) and the reading has fallen to 360 PPM. I am also adding Kent Marine tech magnisium at the same rate.

 

Anybody have an idea of what is happening?

 

75 gallon reef tank (with a few small frags) and a 30 gallon sump. PH is 8.4 , Salinity is 35ppt, alk has risen from from 9 to 10 dkh. all other parameters are reading good. 100 lbs LR and 60 lbs LS. Flow is 1900 gph.

 

I have some calcium hydroxide (two little fishes) but have not used this just based on all the safety warnings. I have the Kent Marine aqua dose system that I can use to drip the Kalkwasser soulution.

 

I am thinking of just changing over to Coral Life salt to stop tying to make all these adjustments.

This same problems keeps being raised in the forums. I was getting the same reading with Reef Cystalls with my Salifert test kit. I just changed to Instant Ocean because why pay more for the same results. I use the SeaChem Reef Calcium to bring the levels of calcium back to the right level. It it properly balanced with the calcium and magnesium. It does not effect the alkalinity or ph if done right.

somewhere around here is a thread about comparison of salt brands, failry recent.

(edited)

the reason for the alk going up and the calcium going down is the fact that you're using both parts a and b. only use the calcium part until that goes up and the alk starts to fall again.

 

note: cal and alk readings are inversely proportionate. e.g. when cal goes up, alk drops and when alk goes up, calcium drops.

Edited by shawns

When I was using Instant Ocean my calcium reading was 400 ppm using an API test kit.

 

I would switch test kits before switching salts.......

the reason for the alk going up and the calcium going down is the fact that you're using both parts a and b. only use the calcium part until that goes up and the alk starts to fall again.

 

note: cal and alk readings are inversely proportionate. e.g. when cal goes up, alk drops and when alk goes up, calcium drops.

 

Sorry Shawn but that's not quite correct. Alk and Ca are related and one has an impact on the other but it is quite possible to have high values for both, low values for both or an imbalance between the two with either one being the high value.

 

Paul,

 

You need to be very careful when attempting to correct an imbalance of Alk and Ca. You are correct that low Mag levels could contribute to the problem and adding mag may be part of the solution. You do not mention any measurements for your mag levels though. Hopefully you have actually tested mag levels and found them to be be low. Otherwise the old advice applies that you should never add anything without measuring the need.

 

I suggest you review the article written by RH Farley, "When do Calcium and Alkalinity Demand Not Exactly Balance". Even though the issue appears to be related to the batch of salt you used, the solutions in the article could be applied to correct the situation. Most important, make these changes slowly. Stability is much more important than achieving some optimal value. Ditto with any future changes to another brand of salt. Go slow...

No problem Shawn. These threads are here for all of us to share thoughts, experiences and to learn from others.

I agree with Ybe. Your magesium levels are probably to high right now and you keep adding more. Without a test kit, you are only guessing as to what your problems are. Actually your water parameters are just ok now. If you let it alone for a few days, then your calcium levels will go down and so will your PH & KH. Without a test kit for magnesium, I would only add calcium choride after your ph drops down to about 8.2 to get your calcium levels back up. After your calcium is back up to 400 - 450, then go back to a balanced additive.

Guest satellite62

thanks for all the responses. I did indeed test for mag using a seachem kit and was getting a reading of 1125ppm. I had switched to RC because of the higher advertised CA and mag properties. However, when I tested a new ten gallon mix of RC, it was only putting out 380 ppm CA. I got 400 CA and 1125 mag from IO so obviously buying the RC was a waste of money.

 

I will take your advice and add only CA for a couple of days. I would like this to be at least 420 and the the mag level to be at lest 1250.

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