coffee anyone?

[treesprite]

Isn't the new fishy cute? He already actively chases down flake food

 

The big job will be trying to catch the fridmani because I think it would be better if it is out of the tank when I put this little guy in. I really don't think I'll be able to do it.

[ReeferMan]

Mine are now starting to fight. Well one is beating up the other. tried cyclopeez and mysis without much luck. They might of picked some cyclopeez of the bottom of the tank.

[treesprite]

I'm sorry to hear that. They were so cute together in the store. Maybe they will chill out once they adjust and get along together again.

[treesprite]

well, he is rubbing his left side now which I believe means he has ich even though I see no spots when looking at him through a magnifying glass

 

So what should I do first before the spots start showing and he gets really sick?

[ReeferMan]

Soak food in garlic and feed heavy

[bprinehart]

well, he is rubbing his left side now which I believe means he has ich even though I see no spots when looking at him through a magnifying glass

 

So what should I do first before the spots start showing and he gets really sick?

 

I had quite a bit of success after I added a pair of cleaner shrimp to my tank. Haven't had a reocurrence since then.

[treesprite]

I had quite a bit of success after I added a pair of cleaner shrimp to my tank. Haven't had a reocurrence since then.

 

He is in a QT at the moment, not the regular tank. I used to have a cleaner shrimp and it was killing my snails, because they can't flip themselves over fast enough when the clown knocks them off of the glass. Then the clowns caused an avalanche that proved fatal for the shrimp. The clowns and damsel didn't like the cleaner shrimp and tried to avoid it because it was always trying to take food from them... the thing ate constantly anything it could sense it would be there in half a second.

 

What kind of food should I be using to soak it in garlic, and exactly how do I soak food in garlic? Do I get garlic juice or something? The fish is happily eating flakes. I have some pellets but they might be too big, but I could crush them. I don't want to put frozen food in a 10g QT tank if I don't really have to do it.

 

I am so afraid of introducing disease into my tank, which is the whole reason I held off for years on getting any new fish.

[vaironman]

I normally mix all my frozen food, mysis shrimp, formula I, formula II, cyclopeeze, spirulina flakes, in a small cup/bowl, drop in about 8 drops of garlic juice or just follow its instruction on the back and a few drops of selcon (same, follow its instruction).

 

If the mix is too soft/liquid, I will either add more spirulina flakes or squash a few leafs of nori/seaweed in until get a thick final mix and put in for the fishes. That way, there is little or minimize the food being dissolve into water. The left over put back into freezer and take it out to use tomorrow.

 

For the 10G QT, can you siphon off the waste and change water every 3 days for the first two weeks if the yellow tank seems to indicate ick? If there is no white dot and the fish stops leaning against rock walls, then after two weeks, it should be OK, I think.

 

The lifecycle of ick is 30 days from the first day we see those little white dots on a fish body.

 

A 9Watts UV light for the 10 gallon QT will be lots of help also.

Edited December 26, 2007 by vaironman

[FishWife]

Forrest,

 

We have ich now; you MAY not, but if so, here's the drill:

 

1. Give the fish a 4-min long fresh-water dip.

 

2. Lower QT salinity from 1.025 to 1.009. You can do this quickly. But, after two-three weeks, you must raise it SLOWLY back to 1.025.

 

Chip wrote to us: I'd suggest you leave the ick tank that is now empty of fish with NO fish for at least 6 weeks ( four may not disrupt the complete ick cycle). Good luck and be mindful of ammonia and temp. Shorter light cycled tanks keep fish less active but they still need to be fed properly.

 

 

Hope it's a false alarm!

[treesprite]

What I used to do with all new fish is freshwater dip and copper treatment right away, but I'm trying to not stress and weaken the fish. I read a bunch of stuff about freshwater dipping last night which is what is making me think I shouldn't do it. On one hand the fish is strong and active so the dip shouldn't be so stressful that it causes rather than helps solve a problem. On the other hand, it might be a deciding factor in the level of stress the fish can take before the stress makes it harder for the fish to get better in spite of the dip getting rid of some of the bugs.

 

What do you mean about the lighting? It looks like the first part of the thought isn't there (you put what a shorter light cycle does but there's nothing to say anything about using a shorter one). I just know that light speeds the lifecycle up. Are you talking about lengthening the lifecycle of the ick to keep it from rapidly multiplying and make it easier to control and remove from the fish?

 

I don't keep water in a qt unless I'm actually using it, so no need to worry about keeping it fallow. I had to go out to get this 10g because the one I had turned out to be broken.

 

My UV is only 9w (need a bigger one), so I will move it to the QT tonight. I should have done it when I first set up for the new fish, but did not think about it.

 

I'll go out and get some garlic juice and try fixing it up similar to suggestion.

 

Thanks for the advice!

Edited December 26, 2007 by treesprite

[treesprite]

SO where do I get garlic juice? I thought I could get it at Safeway but they don't have it. I have fresh garlic cloves so the best I could do was pulverize it and put a few drops of water with it then soak the food in that.

[vaironman]

Forrest,

 

I don't know any MD's fish store; however, BRK, Fins and Feathers, Marine Scene, Super Petz would have it.

 

KLee

[lanman]

SO where do I get garlic juice? I thought I could get it at Safeway but they don't have it. I have fresh garlic cloves so the best I could do was pulverize it and put a few drops of water with it then soak the food in that.

That works, from what I've heard.

 

bob

[zotzer]

Actually, I've heard that fresh garlic is better than the bottled goo.

Any white spots yet, Forrest, or is he fending it off?

 

Tracy

[treesprite]

I got something at the little place on Russell Ave that is closing after this weekend and they gave me 40% off.

 

So far no spots. I didn't see him rub anything during the last day but haven't had a chance to really watch him. Still dropping salinity because I'm afraid to go too fast with it.... I'm about 1.018.

 

I'm really worried that no matter how long the fish is in qt and how well he seems, I may end up with ich in my tank.

[vaironman]

"I'm really worried that no matter how long the fish is in qt and how well he seems, I may end up with ich in my tank."

 

 

The lifecycle of ich is 30 days after their eggs laid on the sand. I think either Chip or Davelin recommended 6 weeks in QT tank. I would agree with that. If you don't see any white dot on the Yellow Tang during this 6 weeks, it's safe to move it over your main tank.

 

I can understand your fear of ich. About a year ago, when I bought a pair of black and white butterflies and they had a few small white dots on its body that looks like they might have been scratched during shipping. Long story short, it turned out to be ich and wiped out all fishes in the 150G, included a beautiful Majestic Angel. Upon research, one of a large staging wholesaler in Hawaii was having ich.

 

After that accident, I always QT new fishes for at least 30 days if not more and fat them up before introduce to the main tank.

[FishWife]

"I'm really worried that no matter how long the fish is in qt and how well he seems, I may end up with ich in my tank."

The lifecycle of ich is 30 days after their eggs laid on the sand. I think either Chip or Davelin recommended 6 weeks in QT tank. I would agree with that. If you don't see any white dot on the Yellow Tang during this 6 weeks, it's safe to move it over your main tank.

 

I can understand your fear of ich. About a year ago, when I bought a pair of black and white butterflies and they had a few small white dots on its body that looks like they might have been scratched during shipping. Long story short, it turned out to be ich and wiped out all fishes in the 150G, included a beautiful Majestic Angel. Upon research, one of a large staging wholesaler in Hawaii was having ich.

 

After that accident, I always QT new fishes for at least 30 days if not more and fat them up before introduce to the main tank.

 

So, if one of my QT'd fish (the butterfly, of course) has white spots that aren't going away... whether they disappear or she dies... when does my countdown begin for "safe"? Is it from disappearance of outbreak or from appearance of same? We are running a UV on the QT tank system, and a skimmer, and have dipped said CB twice, but she's still infested. The tanks are bare of all other life: no rocks; mugs instead for hiding, some PVC and EggCrate, and the pumps. All other fish that were infested show NO signs. Would it help to add copper to hyposalinity, I wonder, to help the CB kick it?

Edited December 29, 2007 by FishWife

[zotzer]

Forrest,

From my understanding, you can lower salinity rather quickly...it's in *raising* it that you have to go slowly.

Keep us posted,

T

[vaironman]

So, if one of my QT'd fish (the butterfly, of course) has white spots that aren't going away... whether they disappear or she dies... when does my countdown begin for "safe"? Is it from disappearance of outbreak or from appearance of same? We are running a UV on the QT tank system, and a skimmer, and have dipped said CB twice, but she's still infested. The tanks are bare of all other life: no rocks; mugs instead for hiding, some PVC and EggCrate, and the pumps. All other fish that were infested show NO signs. Would it help to add copper to hyposalinity, I wonder, to help the CB kick it?

 

 

Hello Marcia and Scott,

 

Here is a link from Bob Fenner's response to your question with proper QT procedure.

 

http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bestquarfaqs.htm

 

Please take a reading under Ich and Quarantine subsection. He pointed us to another link for how long to keep the fish in a QT. Short answer is between 4-6 weeks as recommended by Davelin.

 

===== cut and paste for your convenience =======

Ich and Quarantine

At first sighting an ich problem... if you place the infected fish into QT how long does it need to be in quarantine.

<Please see here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/quaranti.htm

and the links beyond>

 

=====================================

 

I read a very good article on lifecycle of an ich from larvae to adult. Unfortunately, I can't find that link at the moment. But most info. can be searched under www.wetwebmedia.com with keywords ich + quarantine.

 

KLee

[FishWife]

Thanks; that article was helpful! One week down; so far, haven't lost anyone... knock wood!

Edited December 31, 2007 by FishWife

[treesprite]

Thanks; that article was helpful! One week down; so far, haven't lost anyone... knock wood!

 

do you still have spots?

[treesprite]

FINALLY I put him in the tank last night after about 5 weeks QT. He never did show any white spots or other signs of illness other that evening brushing against the rock.

 

His tank mates are paying no attention to him (clowns and dootyback), but he's battering himself on the glass looking like he's attacking his reflection like the female clown does.... maybe he will stop doing it once he gets used to the tank.

 

phsigs, if you happen to look at this, how are his brothers doing?

[dandy7200]

Silly question. What does any of this have to do with coffee?

[zotzer]

I think because the tang was hiding in a coffee cup while in qt.

T

[dandy7200]

ahhhhhh..... Thanks T. I guess I am so used to seeing white PVC pipe in the QT I didn't even think it would be any thing else. Silly me, carry on now.......