Somethins just not right

[ctreptow]

Hi Guys

 

Over the summer I upgraded my 30 gallon to 2 75 gallon tanks sharing the same sump. The 1st 75 was new and I moved all the stuff from my 30 into it. I had a 3 year old DSB (40 Lbs) and 50 lbs of live rock a couple of softies and 2 percs. To this I added another 80lbs of Southdown and 50 lbs of live rock from another established tank. The 2nd 75 was purchased from another member. It had a DSB don't know the age and 200 lbs of live rock. During the move The DSB was removed and put back after the tank move.

 

I have a 20 gallon fuge with Cheato

Kalk Reactor

Aqua C 180 skimmer

 

I have some montipora Dig and Cap a couple of Bali acro's.

 

Tank Params

Salinity 1.026

PH 8.0 day 7.8 night

Ammonia 0

Nitrite 0

Phos .1

Nitrate 0

Alk 2.5 it's hard to keep up

Calcium 500

 

Ok so here it is, I am having an algea problem. Green hair algea is growing on the glass in the back and on the sides. My coral has some polyp extension at night but none during the day. Coral is growing but since the polyps don't come out during the day I don't know if I am setting up for a crash.

 

I have tried to reduce Phos without success, and I harvest cheato at least once a week to keep it thinned out.

 

Any ideas, Is this a result of DSB move?

 

Thanks Chris

[Lee Stearns]

DO you run any carbon? I would put a sack in my sump along with a sack of purigen- In less than two-three weeks you will notice a big difference. Some folks use Rowa phos to get an immediate drop in phos- place any of these where you get fairly good flow into your sump.

[ctreptow]

Hi Lee

 

I have run carbon in the past and I will look into purigen. I ran

Rowaphos through a small canister filter but it didn't seem to help. I have 210 gallons total how much carbon should I run at a time?

 

Thanks Chris

[cabrerad]

Chris,

 

 Moving your DSB could certainly have caused the bloom you describe.  Basically you turned your nutrient sink into a source by moving it.  I second the use of carbon to help out (with water changes as well). With regard to Rowaphos, I have not used it personally, but I believe it needs to be fluidized to work effectively.  Also, what are your units for your alkalinity value (DKH, Meq/L)?

 

David

[ctreptow]

Hi

 

Yeah I didn't realize how the sand bed would react to a move. I should have thrown it out and started a new one. Alk is measured in Meq/l so alk is 2.5 Meq/l or 7 Dkh.  I have added Reef Builder to try to bring the Alk up.

 

Thanks Chris

[cabrerad]

I just wanted to make sure you were not reading 2.5dKH.  The alkalinity is not too far off normal saltwater values.  I am a bit surprised you have 500ppm calcium and your alk is not higher.  It implies that calcium is being overdosed with respect to alkalinity.  So increasing alk and watching Ca can help.  Do you dose calcium seperately as well (CaCl, calcium reactor)?  If so, you may be adding too much.  Check this link out on how to adjust your alk.  Your values fall into zone 4.

 

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/nov2002/chem.htm

[lowsingle]

Be careful adding Rowaphos to an established tank....I know of very experienced reefers who have lost a good portion of their corals due to the rapid drop in pH that occurs when adding rowaphos.  I started my tank with rowaphos (not an existing tank) and had no problems, but be weary.  A cheaper alternative to rowaphos is phosban, which some tell me works as well.  If adding to your tank, only add small amounts at first and slowly increase the dose.  I second the use of carbon.  I dose small amounts weekly on my tank.  Finally, do you have any predators for your algae (ie tangs)?  

 

good luck,

Darren

[ctreptow]

And the mystery continues..

 

I added Purigen and replaced my carbon. The PO4 dropped in half and still no detectable nitrates. The one good part is that I replaced my grounding probe and the monti in that tank extended it's polyps almost immediatly. I added a grouinding probe to tank 2 but the corals are still closed up. The other tank is till having issues. I tested Magnesium today and it's at about 1395 so no problems there...

 

Still looking..

 

I am going to start playing with flow and lights. My 75's each have 2 175w MH with 220W VHO actininc mounted about 12 inches over the water. My SPS 75 have about 1700Gph flow in it, I am going to move the PH arouind and see if the flow is bothering them.

 

 

Chris

[HowardofNOVA]

Chris,

I'm finally going to add a CD-604047 Ultra-Ground Titanium Probe  $15.99 at my Dr Foster's order.

 

I mention this because, I've read several places how this can slowly destroy a tank with constant static plus leaks from all the wiring. Great reminder, thanks.

 

Also, on the Algae, I have never had to deal with green slime algae until recently after I picked up some LR from member and didn't think much about cleaning it off before I put it in my tank. It's trying to take over, but I've been doing the same above with water changes along with taking a old toothbrush and scrubbing off visible growth off rocks. Seems to have come back under control.

Howard

[ctreptow]

Hey Howard

 

Yep that slime algea can be a pain. and I was suprised at the results from adding the new probe. I just can't figure out what the corals are not extending the polyps.. I have 2 acro's that I have never seen the polyps extended.. The color seems good but they are closed up tight..

 

Chris

[Guest Sgt Fury]

when was the last time you changed you RODI filters?

[ctreptow]

The RO system is less then 6 months old and I need to get a TDS meter to see it it's working. I was thinking of making a DIY DI canister for it so I can add DI.

 

Chris

[Guest AlgaeMaN]

IMO if you removed your dsb your algae issues will go away immediately.

[ctreptow]

I was thinking of removing the DSB, but I really don't want bb and I'm not sure how crushed coral would look.

 

Chris

[miller]

if you dont like the look of cc just use sand or whatever you like the look of but just use very little in both the tank i recently set up i only used enough to cover the bottom

[Lee Stearns]

I had already been a believer that on a DSB, you sould replace part of it with new south down maybe once a year- maybe 1/4 sand change- I read in the the RC online Magazine Tank of the month that he changes out sand occasionally, but did not say how often. So finally I have heard of someone else with this philosophy. Besides it gives me an excuse to give away a few more baggies full when the meeting comes. I will just get a 50 lb bag of southdown and replace as needed. I also occasionally get a pretty good sandstorm in my tank when one of the 1200 Maxis- slips and starts blowing directly at the bottom of the tank- I think this about once in every three month's occurance is a blessing in disguise as I have to baste all the rock down and reset the pump.

[GaryL]

what about getting a sand sifting star, do they eat the stuff you need to get rid of in a sand bed? or do the eat the pods? just a thought.

[Guest mikesroth]

I think they just eat the Pods and other critters.