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Reverse Durso


kngfisher

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Well like many others, I have bubbles entering my sump from the main display tank and would like to cut the noise level down as well as reduce the numbers of micro-bubbles being returned to the display.

 

Setup:

The main display is a simple 90gal with a single off center overflow measuring 6"x10"x6". Inside the overflow are two durso standpipes (one made from 1.5" PVC connected to a 1.5" ID bulkhead connected to a 1.5" PVC drain and the second made from 1.25"PVC connected to a 1" ID bulkhead connected to a 1.25" PVC drain). My return is run external to the tank via a ehiem 1262/wavySea+ via 1"ID flexible tubing. This setup is fairly strait forward nothing fancy but I get lots of bubbles entering the sump from both standpipes. This may or may not be an issues for those whom have baffles in their sump but my sump in just a simple unbaffled 30gal aquarium. Inside the sump is my ehiem pump, a heater, some PH,temp,ORP probes, and my Octopus Recirc Needlewheel 150 skimmer (same unit as the Pacific Coast Imports 2000). I know I could add baffles/bubble traps to the sump but I would still get the gurgling noise from the air caught in the standpipes entering the sump and I am trying to cut the noise lever down too.

 

Option:

I came across this idea for a "Reverse Durso" on line. The idea is to set up a system which allows the air to to escape from the pipe before the water from the main display enters the sump. While this did not remove all bubbles from entering my sump, it did drastically reduce them as well as dramatically reduce the noise level of my tank. (I went with the suggestion of 2"PVC for the drains). I am sure there are other suggestions and ideas on how to solve this problem but this worked for me and am very happy with the results. On a side note, information about this concept can also be found on reef central and some folks have noticed foaming like that displayed by a skimmer.......wow an extra benefit of a cheap inline skimmer to boot....not sure how efficient it is but every little bit helps :-).

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You could try a filter sock from the GB a few weeks back.

I like the idea of the reverse durso and had to use something similar on my frag tank.

I have a FS if you want to try.

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You could try a filter sock from the GB a few weeks back.

I like the idea of the reverse durso and had to use something similar on my frag tank.

I have a FS if you want to try.

 

Have one, will try that ..... that is until I can find time to swing by your house....might be a while since you live so far away :bounce:

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Have one, will try that ..... that is until I can find time to swing by your house....might be a while since you live so far away :bounce:

Well your wife said she could see your house from my driveway, so does that mean she can only see my driveway from your house?

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Guest beatle

I almost made one of these before I went with the Herbie method of plumbing. I use both holes in the overflow for a drain, but one is "tuned" with a gate valve to the output of the pump and the second drain is used as a backup in case the primary fails.

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(edited)

I almost made one of these before I went with the Herbie method of plumbing. I use both holes in the overflow for a drain, but one is "tuned" with a gate valve to the output of the pump and the second drain is used as a backup in case the primary fails.

Do you have this documented or is it just slowing drain to a point that there are no bubbles entering sump...

 

Is this the "Herbie" method?

- install a stubby stand pipe.

- install a taller back up stand pipe

- put a gate valve on your drain line.

- Adjust the gate valve to achieve desired water level in your overflow chamber

Edited by kngfisher
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No experience with the reverse durso, but here are my thoughts:

 

I was able to reduce noise (but not bubbles) by making sure my drain was sticking under the water just under an inch. If the outlet was too deep/too shallow it made more noise.

 

For the bubbles, when I had an unbaffled sump, I made some sort of "in-place" baffles. The drain goes into one with holes at the bottom but which is open at the top (above the water level). Think if you drilled some holes near the bottom of a bucket and had your drain going in there. The water flows through the holes but the bubbles float to the surface where they are contained (because the top of the bucket is above the water level). I also made one for the pump which is basically an upside-down tupperware with holes that fits around the intake. The idea is to force the pump to draw water from the bottom of the sump where there are less bubbles. Plus it helps reduce algae growth if you have a light/fuge nearby - I actually run my return pump right out of my fuge with this method. Both of these may need to be weighted with rocks/sand so they don't float away.

 

Go to walmart and take a look at the food storage container section to find materials. You can set yourself up for about $3.

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No experience with the reverse durso, but here are my thoughts:

 

I was able to reduce noise (but not bubbles) by making sure my drain was sticking under the water just under an inch. If the outlet was too deep/too shallow it made more noise.

 

For the bubbles, when I had an unbaffled sump, I made some sort of "in-place" baffles. The drain goes into one with holes at the bottom but which is open at the top (above the water level). Think if you drilled some holes near the bottom of a bucket and had your drain going in there. The water flows through the holes but the bubbles float to the surface where they are contained (because the top of the bucket is above the water level). I also made one for the pump which is basically an upside-down tupperware with holes that fits around the intake. The idea is to force the pump to draw water from the bottom of the sump where there are less bubbles. Plus it helps reduce algae growth if you have a light/fuge nearby - I actually run my return pump right out of my fuge with this method. Both of these may need to be weighted with rocks/sand so they don't float away.

 

Go to walmart and take a look at the food storage container section to find materials. You can set yourself up for about $3.

 

 

Can you please post some pics of this, it seems like it may be the solution to a problem I think I'm going to run into. I just find the description a bit hard to follow

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Can you please post some pics of this, it seems like it may be the solution to a problem I think I'm going to run into. I just find the description a bit hard to follow

 

 

You would want pics... I don't use this approach anymore (multiple rubbermaid tubs joined near the bottom work very well trapping bubbles) so you get crappy Paint drawings instead of photos.

 

Basic principle:

461512326_e0d63286bd_o.gif

 

If that doesn't work well enough you may need an "inner baffle". There are no holes in the inner one since the water needs to go over the lip; the holes pictured are only in the outer container.

461512332_bf69a7b380_o.gif

 

 

This is what I use now to keep the algae off of my return pump. However if I made a cutout for the plumbing so that this fit further over the pump, you can see how it would force most of the water to come through the holes, i.e. from the bottom of the sump vs. the top where the bubbles are. Notice how I have weighted down the plastic so it doesn't float.

460130351_cac8416a8e.jpg

 

A box cutter and/or hole saw will make these out of most any cheap plastic container.

Edited by dchild
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What about just loading your sump with some live rock? I have a corner overflow on my 90. My drain hose from the tank into the sump is flexible tubing and goes straight down and then slightly curves at the end - it's only about 2" longer than what is required to go from bottom of the 90 gallon to the bottom of my sump. My skimmer intake (euroreef with a sedra pump) is right by the drain and the return from that is nearby the tank drain. I've had zero problems with bubbles...

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  • 11 months later...

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