squiddly October 6, 2006 Share October 6, 2006 Anyone know anyplace locally we can pick up some good RO holding tanks. I know we can make them ourselves, but the ones AquaFX makes for 89.00 with automatic shut off, float valve assembly, also look nice for the living room, and the hubby says that they're cheaper than doing it yourself (which I'm not so sure about... but there you have it). He likes the idea of plug and play since he's getting a bit tired of doing all the mechanical things I've been requiring of him for my ever increasing hobby. Anyone have any sources for these, or have a better idea? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gatortailale October 6, 2006 Share October 6, 2006 You talking about this? http://www.aquariumwaterfilters.com/index....p&Itemid=28 You can get rubbermaid brute trash can and one of their auto shutoff floats ($15) and drill 9/16 hole in top side of brute for the float. Add aquarium sealant around float valve hole for extra protection. You may also need to add on Hydraulic Automatic Shut Off to ro unit to shut off rodi once float shuts valve and pressure builds to shut of Hydraulic Automatic Shut Off valve. Both float and Hydraulic Automatic Shut Off can be seen on linked page above. Even if you get that can, you still need some type of control to turn off waste water from running on RO unit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwildman October 6, 2006 Share October 6, 2006 trash cans at either Lowes or Home Depot. Higher quality/thickness more $$'s. I use the 44Gal Brutes with covers and have had no problems at all. You may want to make a little wheelie thing to more the can around. I did for my salt can. For my fresh I made a table adn made a spichot for it. good luck, john You talking about this? http://www.aquariumwaterfilters.com/index....p&Itemid=28 You can get rubbermaid brute trash can and one of their auto shutoff floats ($15) and drill 9/16 hole in top side of brute for the float. Add aquarium sealant around float valve hole for extra protection. You may also need to add on Hydraulic Automatic Shut Off to ro unit to shut off rodi once float shuts valve and pressure builds to shut of Hydraulic Automatic Shut Off valve. Both float and Hydraulic Automatic Shut Off can be seen on linked page above. Even if you get that can, you still need some type of control to turn off waste water from running on RO unit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
squiddly October 6, 2006 Author Share October 6, 2006 You talking about this? http://www.aquariumwaterfilters.com/index....p&Itemid=28 You can get rubbermaid brute trash can and one of their auto shutoff floats ($15) and drill 9/16 hole in top side of brute for the float. Add aquarium sealant around float valve hole for extra protection. You may also need to add on Hydraulic Automatic Shut Off to ro unit to shut off rodi once float shuts valve and pressure builds to shut of Hydraulic Automatic Shut Off valve. Both float and Hydraulic Automatic Shut Off can be seen on linked page above. Even if you get that can, you still need some type of control to turn off waste water from running on RO unit. Yes, was talking about that one definitely. The hubby looked at the posts and said "hmmmm". This is always a good sign :-). trash cans at either Lowes or Home Depot. Higher quality/thickness more $$'s. I use the 44Gal Brutes with covers and have had no problems at all. You may want to make a little wheelie thing to more the can around. I did for my salt can. For my fresh I made a table adn made a spichot for it. good luck, john Yes, the wheelie thing sounds really good, especially with my bad knees. Sometimes getting old is not a happy thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gatortailale October 6, 2006 Share October 6, 2006 I have what I tried to describe - brute can on wheels with float valve and hydrolic shut off. If he wants to see it, you are welcome to come over or I can try to take pic this weekend and email it to you. something like $25 for can, maybe more for a 44g, I have 32. $15 or less for float; few bucks for silicone sealant, and another $25 or so if you buy brute wheels or you can make own with wheels and wood. Lowes & most home depot have brutes. As for putting in living space - there are remote top off controls that you can run up to 100 feet away so maybe you can put it in basement and have 1/4 tube go through floor to tank. Aqual fx been good to me, but you can also see options here: http://www.spectrapure.com/St_alc_p1.htm at spectrapure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
squiddly October 6, 2006 Author Share October 6, 2006 I have what I tried to describe - brute can on wheels with float valve and hydrolic shut off. If he wants to see it, you are welcome to come over or I can try to take pic this weekend and email it to you. something like $25 for can, maybe more for a 44g, I have 32. $15 or less for float; few bucks for silicone sealant, and another $25 or so if you buy brute wheels or you can make own with wheels and wood. Lowes & most home depot have brutes. As for putting in living space - there are remote top off controls that you can run up to 100 feet away so maybe you can put it in basement and have 1/4 tube go through floor to tank. Aqual fx been good to me, but you can also see options here: http://www.spectrapure.com/St_alc_p1.htm at spectrapure Thank you very much for the offer. He says he has the idea. We have the Barracuda system that he is in process of installing in the basement, and he's built an auto top off for the tanks.... now is trying to figure out the best way of getting it all to work together. He is now telling me that I have to go to home depot with him. Egads! what TORTURE! :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gatortailale October 6, 2006 Share October 6, 2006 What you can do - I do / in process of adding top off switch - is put the toilet type float mentioned above in side wall of sump if acrylic - about 8 -10 inches from bottom (low enough so that whey tank shuts off from power out, sump will take all water from tank) (but also high enough so pump does not suck air) Then have electronic top off swich in sump near water level wanted. The solenoid that comes with top off kit will open line to allow your ro unit to top off water. The electronic switch will shut off solenoid and water entering system once electronic float switch reaches full position.. Purpose of float, safety - if electronic fails to shut off, the float will shut line and can hold the pressure of the ro unit (I have used a float for 5 years never failed to shut off) Also, the purpose of electronic float is to allow sump to drop about 1 inch before opening up solenoid and letting ro unit run. My problem now, why I'm adding electronic switch, is I'm only using manual float and hydrolic and the hydrolic will kick on and off a lot and they say will reduce life of ro membrane from brine creep with short on off cycles. Electronic lets ro unit run longer -- a good thing and stay off longer b/w cycles - good thing for less membrane creep. Hope it helps hubby since you have this all down cold :wink: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
squiddly October 6, 2006 Author Share October 6, 2006 What you can do - I do / in process of adding top off switch - is put the toilet type float mentioned above in side wall of sump if acrylic - about 8 -10 inches from bottom (low enough so that whey tank shuts off from power out, sump will take all water from tank) (but also high enough so pump does not suck air) Then have electronic top off swich in sump near water level wanted. The solenoid that comes with top off kit will open line to allow your ro unit to top off water. The electronic switch will shut off solenoid and water entering system once electronic float switch reaches full position.. Purpose of float, safety - if electronic fails to shut off, the float will shut line and can hold the pressure of the ro unit (I have used a float for 5 years never failed to shut off) Also, the purpose of electronic float is to allow sump to drop about 1 inch before opening up solenoid and letting ro unit run. My problem now, why I'm adding electronic switch, is I'm only using manual float and hydrolic and the hydrolic will kick on and off a lot and they say will reduce life of ro membrane from brine creep with short on off cycles. Electronic lets ro unit run longer -- a good thing and stay off longer b/w cycles - good thing for less membrane creep. Hope it helps hubby since you have this all down cold :wink: heh heh.... well, hubby just came up from the basement, telling me that the unit is leaking all over the basement, he's annoyed because the water is coming out of the plastic fittings, and he will tackle the rest at some point after he figures out what's wrong. He says that mostly the Ts are leaking. He is frustrated. I wish dominos delivered beer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason the filter freak October 6, 2006 Share October 6, 2006 heh heh.... well, hubby just came up from the basement, telling me that the unit is leaking all over the basement, he's annoyed because the water is coming out of the plastic fittings, and he will tackle the rest at some point after he figures out what's wrong. He says that mostly the Ts are leaking. He is frustrated. I wish dominos delivered beer. Aw lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
squiddly October 7, 2006 Author Share October 7, 2006 Aw lol Awww is right. I really really REALLY need to do a water change. No water. *argh* Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emissary October 7, 2006 Share October 7, 2006 Awww is right. I really really REALLY need to do a water change. No water. *argh* If you need help call me. I'll PM you my cell # I have water, I have an AquaFX filter system. I have the storage bin you see in your picture. At the very least you're welcome to come by and see it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
squiddly October 7, 2006 Author Share October 7, 2006 If you need help call me. I'll PM you my cell # I have water, I have an AquaFX filter system. I have the storage bin you see in your picture. At the very least you're welcome to come by and see it. Thank you so VERY much! I'll tell hubby. Apparently, he says that the plastic quick connect fittings are leaking and the T connectors are also. Sometimes, I have to wonder why some of these things wind up to be so complicated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flowerseller October 7, 2006 Share October 7, 2006 Thank you so VERY much! I'll tell hubby. Apparently, he says that the plastic quick connect fittings are leaking and the T connectors are also. Sometimes, I have to wonder why some of these things wind up to be so complicated. Quick connects may not be pushed in far enough to seat properly or they need a few more windings of teflon tape on the threads. I too have premixed water and am in McLean. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
squiddly October 7, 2006 Author Share October 7, 2006 Quick connects may not be pushed in far enough to seat properly or they need a few more windings of teflon tape on the threads. I too have premixed water and am in McLean. You guys are great. Let me find out what the husband's plans are in the morning. He is currently in dreamland, likely dreaming of vast Home Depots with glorious tool departments, complete with drool buckets. If worse comes to worst, we can have a plumbing and water for beer exchange party at my house :-). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
squiddly October 7, 2006 Author Share October 7, 2006 Morning update....the husband is in the garage making much noise. He says he has everything he needs to fix the RO. I am skeptical, but will remain supportive until proven otherwise :-). More as it happens. Water/plumbing/beer party not yet cancelled :-). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
squiddly October 7, 2006 Author Share October 7, 2006 Marginal success. He has the RO unit working into a large bucket. Apparently, the thing was put together improperly and could not possibly have been pressure tested at the factory like they said it was. There was plastic that had to be shaved off a bit in order to get it to fit properly into the socket. He was complaining about some other things he had to fix as well, but now all seems to be well. Thanks to everyone for their help. Now he has to implement the auto shut off/float valve/rest of the other stuff :-). If you see a small smoke cloud coming up from Great Falls, you'll know he's working :-). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
squiddly October 11, 2006 Author Share October 11, 2006 Complete success, and almost a success at creating calamari as this squid almost got fried. My own stupid fault. The RO unit was working great and I filled the large Brut bin, mixed the salt, brought it to temp and was about to do the water change, set things up, went to plug in the powerhead and.....ZZZZZAAAAAAAPPPPPP. It was a good one too, with all the great muscle pain, nausea, headache, etc. that comes with it. That particular powerstrip was NOT on the GFI. Very bad. Hubby decided enough was enough of that kind of stupidity, so he finished the auto top off in a hurry and advised it would be a good idea to make sure he's RIGHT THERE next time I do a water change. Well duh, make me feel like a 4 year old but he has a good point. Soon he will install the pump into the downstairs RO system to pump it upstairs so I don't have to carry those 5 gallon buckets around. Oh, and after about 150 gallons, the DI filter is orange. Guess we have seriously lousy water around here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emissary October 11, 2006 Share October 11, 2006 Oh, and after about 150 gallons, the DI filter is orange. Guess we have seriously lousy water around here. Careful! Your DI shouldn't go south that quick. If it does, it's indicative of a not-performing-good-enough RO membrane. I ahve both an inline and handheld TDS meter. I use the handheld to test the freswhater I use that's completely gone through the RO/DI system. I use the inline for readings (a) after the prefilters and (b) after the RO membrane but before DI. (a) is about 270 (b) is 5-20 and at the end the reading is 0. Do you have an inline meter? Suggest getting one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
squiddly October 11, 2006 Author Share October 11, 2006 Careful! Your DI shouldn't go south that quick. If it does, it's indicative of a not-performing-good-enough RO membrane. I ahve both an inline and handheld TDS meter. I use the handheld to test the freswhater I use that's completely gone through the RO/DI system. I use the inline for readings (a) after the prefilters and (b) after the RO membrane but before DI. (a) is about 270 (b) is 5-20 and at the end the reading is 0. Do you have an inline meter? Suggest getting one. Yes, we have an inline meter. I will definitely check it. It did seem a bit strange that things would go that quickly. Will report back in a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
squiddly October 11, 2006 Author Share October 11, 2006 The reading going into the DI filter is approximately 20. Zero after the DI. So not sure what's up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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