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jason the filter freak

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Posts posted by jason the filter freak

  1. I never see anything in this fourm ever!

     

    So I thought maybe here would be a good place to ask this..... I've boght a number of "starter kits" at some expense, and I no fish in my tank to speak of except one tiny blue green chromis :bluefish:

     

    I can't see anything I've bought ever, wether it be pods, mini stars, worms, shrimp, anything! My water quality is good, and I have at least 100 lbs or LR in the tank, and flow is abundant but not turbulent....

     

    What am I doing wrong? :why:

  2. ps. why am i a 'talker'?! ... i don't have anything to talk about! "and our next speaker will be Charlie, who will attempt to explain how to have a successful reef tank using nothing more than the WAMAS boards, and Blind Luck that everything works the way it should."

     

    AAAAEGKH! *cough* no pressure.

     

    I can see that working as long as it's not a case of the blind leading the blind :gho:

  3. Jason,

     

    If you have not filled your tank yet I would highly reccomend drilling it. HOB overflows are much more likely to fail. There are several of us in the club including myself who can drill it for you.

     

    Could it be partially drained then filled, I would highly appreciate it if you'd drill it I'm sure I could give you something for your trouble.... I would like to not have that huge bulky over flow boxes

  4. Hmm Dave's been in this longer than I have.... And as far as I'm concerend he's the man....

     

    My line of thinking was that if you put back preassure on your return pump it might cause it to have extra resistance, which could cause it to work harder...?

     

    Like I said dave has been in this longer than I have

     

    And to borrow someone else's signature in the club, it's just my opnion and it's worth what you paid for it

  5. Here's what I'm talking about

     

    the first is just your sump

     

    the second is what dave is talking about that "could" lead to burning out your return pump

     

    the last is what I'm talking about that should allow you to safely decresse the amount of water flowing back into your tank with no harm to your pump, you could also make the 90 degree bend have a piece of clean vinyl tubing on it or pvc pipe so it goes all the way back into your sump (to prevent splashing :biggrin: )

     

    Here's what I'm talking about

     

    LET IT BE KNOWN I"M NOT AN ARTIST AND I DID THIS IN A SHORT TIME, this is purely for design idea not art lol :drink:

    post-975-1157403917_thumb.jpg

    post-975-1157403941_thumb.jpg

    post-975-1157403953_thumb.jpg

  6. :( I had a 55 gallon tank crack on me soo I feel your pain running for towels and even a steam vac on ocasion. :cry:

     

     

    There is a very very simple way to prevent your tank from over flowing.... I found this out the hard way, and felt really dumb when I did

     

    When you start out block the drain from your tank leading to your sump, fill the tank all the way up to your desired level, then unblock it let your overflows drain your tank until they are no longer taking in water ... then OLNY ADD ENOUGH WATER to get the water level of your tank to where it is draining into your overflows again, then engage your sump pump, this way you'll never have enough water in your system to over flow your tank :biggrin: :rollface:

     

    I don't want to disagree with dave, cuz that man is AWSOME! :cheers: , however I would put a PVC T on your return line with a valve on the open end of the T with a 90 degree bend on it so it aims back down to your sump, this will relive some of your flow with out loosing pressure in your return line, if you put an inline valve and close it part way it will creat back preassure on your return pump which can lead to burning it out.... give me a min and I'll make a diagram :biggrin:

  7. Well if your uv sterililizer is in line just plum it in between your pump and the line going back into your tank, with threaded Pvc so it can be removed for maintanace, and just T off with a pvc fitting your input to your sup and put a valve on one side of the T so you can later hook it up to your refugium, and then have it so your refugium just overflows back into the out put area of your sump

  8. I was thinking with 3 bulbs I could have them come on at one hour inteverals closer to what day light would be like

     

    Bulb number #1 on at 11:30 AM

    Bulb number #2 on at 12:30 PM

    Bulb number #3 on at 1:30 PM

     

    then

     

    Bulb number #1 off at 9:30 PM

    Bulb number #2 off at 10:30 PM

    Bulb number #3 off at 11:30 PM

     

    WhaT DOES anyONE think about the strenght of the lights?

     

    Is there any significant diffrence in heat out put from a 250 watt as opposed to a 175 and 150 watt bulb in terms of radiated heat?

     

    Do i really need to have the lights come on and off at diffrent times or should I just have them all come on at once?

  9. :idea: I really don't want to bump the Irwin thread...

     

    I need to know about lighting :idea:

     

    I have a regular 55 gallon tank that I want to have some soft corals in it eventually

     

    I'm very worried about heat

    Right now I have a 150 Metal Halide buld, with two 24 watt actenics

     

    Would 3 175 watt MH fixtures with I suppose a 65 watt actenic be enough or would I want closer to two 300 watt bulbs,

     

    How much heat am I looking at from that much lighting as well? I plan to have them about 7-9 inches off the waters surface in an open back canopy

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