scarletknight06

SOLD! Thanks for the fast responses. Happy reefing to all.

I'm in Arlington, VA (Clarendon area). Please call me at 703 980 7866 or email at jhupp@gmu.edu I'll give preference to the person who can pick up or arrange a drop off today.

36x18x16--standard 40 breeder

Sorry, it's been a while since I've been on the forums here, but I thought I remembered that moving sale posts could be in this forum--sorry if I'm mistaken. My wife and I are moving to AZ in a couple of months and unfortunately I can't take my tank with me. The price is so low for 2 reasons: 1) I need to get it out of here; and 2) it needs a little elbow grease--see below. Tank -40g breeder, acrylic, custom built by socal creations in 2005. 3/8" acrylic all around w/ eurobracing. -center overflow with a drain and return hole (I believe it's 1' drain and 3/4' return). -the tank has a number of holes drilled for a closed loop (or you could plug them up). There's 4 holes in the eurobracing--one in each corner (for 3/4' pvc I believe). Originally I used these holes for a closed loop return via an oceans motion squirt. There's also 2 holes in the rear of the tank that you can see in the picture, again I believe they're for 3/4' pvc, which served as the closed loop intake. -the tank needs a good cleaning. It does have some scratching, but no deep gouges that I can find. It would probably look great w/ an acrylic scratch remover kit. The light scratches are probably from my turtle (or rather his claws), who has lived in this for the past 2 years. -the biggest project to get this tank ready for your reef would be to "fix" the overflow. My turtle has been living in it for the past 2 years. I made him an over the tank basking area, and, thus, I had to raise the water level by covering the overflow teeth. Thin pieces of acrylic were glued over the teeth to do this. All you'd need to do is dremel them out. I could do it myself but I don't have the right bit for my rotary tool. -I didn't use any freshwater chemicals or medicines in this tank Stand -custom built out of 2x4's by an old friend. has some nice molding/trim around it. There are holes in the top of it to match the drain and return hole in the overflow. -my cat has really done a number on it in a few places (scratches/knicks), but it's simply cosmetic. You could sand and putty the trouble spots then restain it, or you could sand the whole thing and restain it and it'd look like new. -the interior of the stand is painted w/ exterior latex paint and sealed around the edges w/ silicone to prevent water damage If you have any questions let me know. With $25-50 this could be a great looking tank/stand combo. I live in Arlington and can deliver it w/i a reasonable distance (I've got a truck), but if you're further than 20-30 miles from me I'd ask for a little gas money. You can call me at 703 980 7866 or email me at jhupp@gmu.edu. -Jonathan

anywhere to get weldon locally? what numbers do I need?

no experience with rabbitfish or cowfish, but i currently have a gorgeous potters angel and had a flame angel in the past. the flame occassionally nipped at sps, but never much of a problem. I didnt have any zoos or lps in the tank so cant comment on that. the potters I have now is a nipper. he has nipped at everything so far aside from zoos and euphylia lps (torch, frogspawn, and hammer), the sps i have are suffering b/c of him, but i'd rather have the potters over the sps, so no big deal to me. IMO it really comes down to each individual fish and how much you feed them. I've noticed that my potters will only pick at stuff (incessantly!) for 2-3 hours before i feed at night, but if I feed twice a day (very rarely) he won't pick at stuff at all. Some say its merely a matter of time before they figure out they can eat some corals.

I would just let it run, I doubt you can return it. If it doesnt quiet down after a week or two (IME it will) then sell it to someone who doesnt care about the noise.

I have an old skimmer a friend gave me (i think its a DIY), but the spot where the pump attaches to the body is cracked and its sort of like theres a patch of acrylic missing from the body. I'm thinking of messing around with it for yucks, maybe throw a mesh weel pump on there. Just wondering if the crack/whole can be repaired with weldon, or is it futile and I should throw it away?

I assume it is a new pump then? I've used quiet ones a lot and have found it takes a week or two before the quiet down. the pump has to break in so to speak.

does anyone know what kind of mesh they are using and where to get it. I want to use it to modify my ER rs80

Sorry I offered my opinion. Next time I won't speak up at all......apologies to all.

I understand the service thing and I'll agree that neptune service is great, but the ability of running the dosing pump off of the same controller and the total expandability/upgradeability of the aquatronica appeals to me. If they ever come out with an entirely new program, instead of buying a new unit to upgrade, all you need is a CD. That said, you probably cant go wrong either way. If you're really willing to drop some dough, there are some really really cool new controllers coming out. The Elos one looks pretty neat but I dont have any info on it. Also there are a couple of controllers coming to the US that can control tunze's (as in you won't need the 7095 multicontroller in addition to the aqaurium controller). If you look on RC in the large tank forum for a thread called DIY 900g, theres a guy that made a huge plywood tank and he has a new nifty controller from somebody in Europe.

My opinion is that if you're looking for something basic that will get the job done well, go for the Aquacontroll jr set up. I have one and I love it. But if you're looking for something that can do more, I would go for the Aquatronica. Totally expandable, does all the web stuff, controls more than one tank, controls everything you could need, and you can add on a dosing pump system so you wont need a calcium reactor (like a litermeter 3). Its what I'll be getting in the future. you can get it here for $1,099. Seems cheaper than the ACIII pro for the same stuff. http://www.aquariumspecialty.com/catalog/p...products_id=432 You can add the ethernet module and dosing pump for a little over $500, meaning that you get much more than the ACIII pro for about $100 bucks more.

wow thats awesome. Where did you get that big green maze brain (platygyra I believe)? I 've been looking for one forever.

why dont you look at the 200-1260 (internal H&S model) and save yourself some cash from the A200 if you have no preference for internal or external. I thought the ATI skimmers looked good, but after following the thead on RC, I don't think I'd buy one.

wow good to know. I didnt get to read the whole RC thread, but they did determine that the american marine pinpoint conductivity calibration solution (thats a mouthful) could be used as a calibration for a refractometer correct? I might have to drive out to BRK or wherever to get some this weekend, however I have a feeling they will be sold out by the time i can get there.

I wish i could afford to upgrade my 4x39w tek light to the 4x39w powermodul......

I have a dual float switch sump mount from www.autotopoff.com The first switch turns on the pump from my resevoir (14g barrell) when water falls below the level, and turns it off when it is back at the appropriate level. The second switch is mounted above. In case the bottom switch fails, it turns off the pump if the water level reaches it. My second fail safe is that the unit is plugged into my aquacontroller jr, allowing it to run for 1 minute at one of 3 times during the day. So if the second switch fails, it can still only continue to pump for a minute. And hopefully I will be home before it gets to turn on again.

yes pink tails are reef safe too, but I've never known anyone thats kept one. IIRC they get a little bit larger too.

Leopard wrasses are fairly diificult to keep IIRC. I believe their diet in the wild consists of vermitid snails (those white tiny tubular worms that attach themselves to all surfaces of your tank) and it is very difficult to get them to eat prepared foods. I do know of a couple people who have succesfully kept them though. I'm not a big fan of wrasses, plus they like to go carpet surfing. What about a bluejaw trigger of harlequen tusk (if you dont care about your hermits or snails that is).

I've used the polythylene tubing lowes sells. It works fine. If you're using it on an RODI unit, the unit should have removed everything that would allow algae growth, so light shouldnt matter. I could be wrong though. The simple solution is to wrap the tubing in duct tape or electric tape if you're concerned though. I've even used the stuff (and seen others use it for the same application with no problems either) for input and output of my calcium reactor and top off line, both of which were exposed to light and I never had any algae grow in the line that I could tell

I just saw this thread. What a great idea. can you post a link to where you got that specific fan. If you do this to a velocity/poseidon pump you have an awesome pump. totally silent and now it wont add heat to the water.

I forgot to add that I have used 175w SE 14k aquaconnects, and I did like those bulbs ALOT. they are pricey though. I still prefer the crisp whiteness of the XM's or AB's though

going from the ushio 10k with t5 actinics to the ushio 10k with VHO super actinics will give you much more blue. The vho actinics are way better than the T5's IMO. You probably won't need to change your MH bulb to get the more blue you are looking for if you are switching to VHO's. But if you still wanted to change............... here's my opinion on a couple of the 14-15k SE bulbs I've seen or used. XM 15k-looks okay, much prefer the crispness of the xm10k or the flourescence of the xm20k bulb. In the middle things just look washed out. not "crisp" enougn and not "flourescing (spelling?)" enough. EVC 14k- terrible bulb. very dim and seems more blue than most 20k bulbs

http://www.wamas.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=10166 hey guys, give me some advice if in this thread if I should go ahead and add livestock this weekend after my RBTA died last weekend. Post in the other thread to keep this thread on topic please.