A.ocellaris
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Posts posted by A.ocellaris
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I gotta qt some fish a found this to be the best option for all of them since I have a mandarin. Any ideas as where to find this?
Chloroquine phosphate: Treats Ich (Cryptocaryon irritans), Marine Velvet Disease (Amyloodinium), Brooklynella hostilis & Uronema marinum.
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23 hours ago, YHSublime said:
Also, tank is still young, don't try and catch up all at once if the problem is solved.
Definitely! The green Chromis is still alive
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I do not recomment it. You will get all the pollution from the air...
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Quick update!!
Things look better! Better polyp extension and coloration of sps and softies. I bought a chromis and he’s been alive for more than 48 hours (they didnt last a day in my tank).
i hope to send a new ICP test next week or is it too early? I added a poly filter today to see if it catches something.
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I dont think so. Of they dont get along they would take different spots in the aquarium.
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Looks like love is in the water.
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2 hours ago, madweazl said:
I've been using the Nature's Ocean Bioactive black sand without issue for two and a half years now (acropora dominant system) and I haven't had any issues with metals in the past (I've had three or four ICP analysis' performed).
People only report issues with the Caribsea Tahitian sand. Thats the one I had.
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4 hours ago, Origami said:
Good luck today!
Mission completed! I think I was able to change 98% of the water. I still have fresh salt water left sincr the container was bigger than my tank. Can i save it for next week in a bucket with a lid?
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Tomorrow is the big day. This has been harder that I thought and it is just the beginning lol.
I did some maintenance of my RODI filter before collecting this water. Replaced the sediment/carbon filters and the Resin. It was 0TDS before the salt was added. Hopefully the silicon (which was high in my rodi ICP test) is none.
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Guys,
I am getting ready for a big WC. Close to a 100%. I have a heater that I used to treat my fish with copper so I think I have to buy a new one right?
Well, I will do my best to match pH, Alkalinity and temperature.
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2 minutes ago, AlanM said:
You going to stay bare bottom for a while or going to add some white sand?
I kind of like it bare bottom! At least until I am sure there is no much black sand between or under rocks.
What white sand is better?
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Thank you all!
I think the tank is slowly looking better. I see better polyp extension on my LPSs. I will be planning a large WC later this week.
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Origami,
I see! I can try to filter that much water, but it will be a challenge to keep each 5gal bucket with similar parameters (mostly temp and pH). My reef is more or less 35G, but I only have a 50gpd Filter, 3x5Gbuckets. I still have 2 ocellaris, one mandarin, and one royal gramma alive (the survivors) and a few corals and 5 anemones. I am not sure if the anemones will be able to be exposed to air while remove and add the water.
Has someone used Triton Detox before?
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Thank you all for your advise and help on this issue. It's been 8 long months with many disappointing events with this tank. I've had tanks in the past, but this one is the worst and I think it was just the sand... It is just crazy...
Thanks Origami, the thread is very very similar to my situation. I reached out to CaribSea and they discontinued the product, but it looks like that customer can still find it in the LFS.
Update:
I guess this will be my last attempt to fix this tank, if not, I'll have to take it down. It's just too much money already spent. I removed 99.99% of the sand and did a 20% WC with a Tropic Marine Pro Reef salt to make sure I dont add extra stuff. I hope to continue changing 20% every 5 days hoping to lower those metal levels. Will this ever be resolved? Who knows... Now everything start to make sense... no hermits alive, no shrimps, fish getting skin sores and dying, SPS going RTN, LPS losing polyps/expansion, Favias losing color/polyps. On the other side, Anemones are doing well.
I am not sure how to do 100% WC, I only have a small RODI filter.
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1 hour ago, flooddc said:
Have you verify that you sand is magnetized? I did a quick search and seem to indicated that there is only one type of black sand that is partially magnetic. So it might not be the source of your problem and you will be back to square one. Just my opinion.
Yes. It is magnetized (it sticks to magnets). Istabilized the pH. Now the sand. If that does not work, Ill continue with the marinepure biosphere. Lol
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15 hours ago, Origami said:
I hear ya. It's a lot of work for something that's only suspected of being at the root of this problem.
I tried to do it and I have to re-design the entire rockwork. Ill do it at once, i dont think I will have energy to do it by phases lol. I think it is impossible to take it out 100%. There will be traces somewhere.
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3 hours ago, Origami said:
Is it possible to siphon all the sand out over several days, then perform a 100% water change?
Siphoning out the sand in stages would give bacteria (if there's much alive in there) a chance to colonize other surfaces more completely. And the 100% water change would obviously be to drop those metal levels to zero. At that point, I'd add a polyfilter to the system to pick up any heavy metals that might possibly leach out of rock. Run this way until things stabilize and then put something new, small and cheap in the tank (a "canary") to see if things have improved.
Its going to be difficult, but not impossible. ?
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2 minutes ago, YHSublime said:
I had black sand like that in my Office Nano. I was warned it was magnetic from some people, but it was more gravel than sand, and I never noticed the pieces getting stuck to my magnet cleaner.
Yes. I got rid of my magnet cleaner because I was scratching the glass with the sand sticking to the magnet.
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13 minutes ago, Origami said:
This is interesting:
In the video description, Toni Maier (the person who posted the video) says, "This sand has killed so many of my inverts. I thought it was my water or decor but finally figured it out. It’s full of heavy metals."
Look at the comments. Two other people had issues similar to yours. I can't say that this is the smoking gun, but it's looking like a prime candidate.
Yep. I can't have hermits, they all die within a week. I tried 2 cleaner shrimps and 2 peppermint shrimps and they died... in a matter of days. SPS get RTN
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1 hour ago, Origami said:
Your metals are crazy high. I've seen elevated vanadium and nickel. In fact, I had high nickel not all that long ago and, while I suspected a magnet, I could not find anything that would be the source. However, I did (after sending my well water in for ICP analysis) find that my well water had traces of nickel in it and I'd guessed that it was accumulating in my tank during a period of time that I was testing running without a DI stage (because of high CO2 and the high cost of DI resin which was depleting very rapidly). The bottom line of this strategy was that I started losing corals (STN, not RTN). Ultiimately, I added a cation resin stage back to my RO/DI system to capture positive ions (like the metals) and my tank seems to have recovered.
I noticed the other day that BRS is now selling both mixed and cation/anion resins.
First question for you, though: Are you using RO/DI water for your top off and change water? If not, why not. And if so, what TDS reading are you getting from your pure water (because it's clearly not pure)? All that metal has to be coming from somewhere. Also, did you, by chance, test your RO/DI water or your tap water? For metals to be that high, it's either accumulating over time or you've possibly got a a failed membrane and you're exhausting your DI resin very, very fast. I wouldn't just change out your resin if your membrane has failed. Check TDS of your tap water, water out of your RO stage (after it's been running for about 5 minutes), and water out of your DI stage. Report these numbers back if you can.
Thank you, Origami.
I do use RODI water and I change my resin after reading 4-5 TDS. It currently reads 2ppm after the resin. I've also received results from the RODI water sample and it came high in silicon, not metals. See attached. TDS number from tap water is around 200.
I've had pH issues, dropping to 7.43 so not sure if this low pH dissolved some of the metals contained in he sand? According to the water sample results, it does not look like the source is the water.
Regarding the sand, this is the one I bought when I set up my tank and it supposed to be "reef safe":
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1 hour ago, dpassar12 said:
2nd time in a week I have heard high vanadium and tank death. I will text my friend maybe you two can work out where it is coming from.
Thanks
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1 hour ago, AlanM said:
Gotta be a magnet, maybe on a feeding clip, maybe on a pump impeller, less likely cracked heater.
I dont use magnet cleaner and pumps seems to be in good condition. I've always suspected of the black sand.. which is magnetic...
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Hey!
I have been away from the forum for a few weeks and also stopped buying corals and fish. As some of you may know, I have some trouble keeping corals, even soft corals. Fish die without explanation and I decided to get my water tested. Here are the result and I am looking for people with some knowledge on how to get this fixed :(.
Salinity34.23KH10.31ATI recommendsAdjust dosage of alkalinity and calcium. Nickel and vanadium are drastically elevated, find source (corroding metals/magnets, RO water, salt).The full report is attached.The RODI water has elevated Silicon (288.5 µg/l). They recommended to replace resin. -
On 11/18/2018 at 1:23 PM, littlelise1985 said:
Val has friends!
Trying to feed the eel but lost the food to Val.... she's such a fatty.
LOL
Are they both reef safe?
Meme of the day.
in General Discussion
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