bues0022
-
Posts
380 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Store
Posts posted by bues0022
-
-
I would be moderately concerned (at least enough to be careful) about attempting to support the canopy on the rim of the tank and the studs. In theory, everything is square and you’ll be fine. However, very few walls are perfectly square. Having even a slight eccentric load on the rim of the tank due to a non-square wall can dramatically increase point loading on the glass.
Think of it like this: set the lid on the tank. Now, when you go to screw it to the studs, as you tighten the screws down hard there is a very real possibility for the lid to tip up (I.e. not be supported by the tank at all any more), or tip down (putting a load *in addition to* the weight - mostly on the front corners). Now, if there’s any left - to - right movement due to screwing it down then you have even more potential problems.
If it wereme, I wouldn’t screw-in to the walls. Design it light enough where you aren’t concerned about the weight.
OR, make a “false hood”. Basically an empty “box” that sits on the tank itself, but nearly open in the back. Then, make your brackets etc to hold your lights, and screw this to the wall, but do not attach this brackets to the false hood.
-
The Pyramidellid snails are attacking my snails in my CUC. I had a few emails with Bob over at WWM. He helped me listen to myself. It broke down like this: 1) wrasses that typically eat Pyramidellid snails grow too large for my tank. 2) wrasses that typically eat Pyramidellid snails will also put at risk my ornamental shrimp and CUC. (You can find pro/con stories on EVERY wrasse in this category for eating shrimp). 3) wrasses which are appropriate for my tank (such as the possum wrasses) won’t tough Pyramidellid snails, so while a neat inhabitant, it won’t “fix” the issue. 4) snails are nocturnal and are good hiders, so a diurnal fish which eats them won’t get to them all, but may just keep numbers low. 5) I have no intention of adding a clam (ca/all requirements require more maintenance in this small tank than I want), so I’d be looking at buying a ~$50 fish, and putting another $50 in shrimp at risk, just to try to save $5 worth of CUC snails??? Dumb move.
Over the the course of the last few days I figured all of this out already, but hearing it from both him and now you guys has solidified that I’m just going to keep removing them as I see them, triple check any frags I give/sell to ensure I don’t spread them, and just let em be.
-
Hey guys, I think I just found some Pyramidellid snails in my tank this afternoon. My tank is small, 30 gallons, and the infestation looks light at the moment so manual removal has started and is a feasible early control method. However, I’d like suggestions on a wrasse to add to help with control. My tank is peaceful (firefish, hectors goby, pair of clowns, peppermint and cleaner shrimp, and soon a diamond goby), what are some suggestions of what will be an interesting and effective addition to the tank??
-
On 12/18/2018 at 2:16 PM, rt502 said:
Comparing reefkeeping to hunting is also pretty misleading.
I was not attempting to paint a broad stroke saying they were both equal - merely pointing out the similarities between one very specific example (Hawaii) where those who are engaged in the salt water aquarium hobby/industry are making a significant, and noticeable difference in the knowledge and health of the ecosystem which is in discussion.
Tom has done a better job of posting links and explaining the status (as depressing as it may because of "mob rule" and political whims overtaking actual science).
-
Are there any easy biological solutions to vermetids? i.e. peppermint shrimp for aiptasia - what'll eat vermetids?
-
As an engineer, all of my decisions are based on technical, verifiable data and evidence. However, as I've read about the Hawaii ban, it seems as though there is a percentage of the population who will come to their own conclusions - despite the evidence stating the exact opposite. Evidence gathered from over 30 years of tracking fish populations have proven that due to creating "no take" zones for fish, and managing the resource carefully, populations of reef fish are actually increasing. Even still, there are many in Hawaii who believe taking fish from the ocean for our tanks is terrible, wasteful, and depletes the reef. This is paralleled with hunting deer (or other animals, but I'll focus on deer): Hunting deer for consuming meat must be awful, right? However, hunters contribute the majority of conservation money to states to provide habitat, help with accurate herd count, manage disease, and educate about wildlife management. But, many still think it's bad.
In short, you're fighting a loosing battle. In emotionally charged topics such as what you're describing (getting into a discussion about reef aquariums with a conversationalist), I highly doubt, unfortunately, that anything you say/do will bring about a change in their preconceived notions about this hobby, and what it does/doesn't do to our oceans.
-
I had big troubles with mine a few months back. Unfortunately the only thing that fixed it was calling them and they sent some kind of a reset signal to it that finally got the juices flowing.
-
7 hours ago, YHSublime said:
I used to wonder if I could use the water from a dehumidifier as top off. I think it's kind of the same principles. It would take more energy to find a way to get it reef ready than would be worth it.
I tried this once for my reef, and used it in some humidifiers we had running in the house. Nearly instant algae bloom in the tank, and the humidifiers had more gunk and crusties build up in them than just using tap. I knew better, but was curious exactly what would happen.
It's like licking a metal pole in the winter up north - you know your tongue will stick, but you're just too curious not to try (yes, my tongue stuck - tried it once in 3rd grade. That S*^# hurts!)
-
Also, have you actually calculated how much money it costs you to make your water? I just looked up the water/sewer charges in Warrenton. If you use less than 2,000 gallons of water each month, and have a 1" meter, you pay 43.28/month no matter what (plus taxes/charges I suppose). If you use more than 2000 gallons, you pay $14.03 per thousand gallons. Assuming you use exactly 2000 gallons for your home, then how much extra does 20 gallons/week cost you? 4 weeks/month@ 20 gallons per week = 80 gallons. Assuming a 4:1 rejection ration, you throw out 4 gallons of waste water for every gallon you collect, so you actually use 400 gallons of water. $14.03/1000*400 = $5.61. (water cost).
Noble idea, but as Tom said - the water isn't clean. Also looking at the cost breakdown, there are likely FAR better places to save costs than using rainwater for your tank (take a shorter shower for example). I also tend to take a more pragmatic approach when questions like this come up: If saving $6 is the tipping point to you having a reef tank, then the funds aren't there for a successful setup in the first place. I understand a few bucks in a few places can add up, but this isn't a place I'd skimp on - water is literally the life blood of our tanks.
-
8 hours ago, Origami said:
The periodicity makes it sound like it's the driver (ballasts go with HID and fluorescent lamps). These designs are fairly straightforward - especially if it's a non-dimming light. It's pretty much going to be
AC_in > Switch > Driver > LED string
Single string or multiple drivers in parallel. Unfortunately, the drivers are almost always self-contained, sealed modules. If it's that, it's probably not worth trying to fix.
However, there's another possible option - a broken LED connection somewhere in the string that open-circuits when an LED is on and gets hot. Then, upon cooling, the connection closes to turn the LED back on. The cycle then repeats. If this were the case, you might be able to identify the culprit connection by applying pressure to each LED one by one until the pattern of onn-off behavior changes. Once the affected LED is identified, repair its solder connections. Also, check any wiring connections for similar issues.
In any case, it sounds like an infant failure since the unit is so new. I'd write your supplier and let them know the unit has failed and try to get them to replace it. No harm in reaching out and asking them to make it right.
Thanks for the tips. I'll dig around tonight and see what happens. I did contact the guy on ebay - they are completely out. At least they refunded my money though.
-
Whelp - all good things must end. My light bit the dust. It may not be completely toast, but it’s basically a slow strobe - turns on for one second, then off for one second, on for one second (you get the idea). Seems like a ballast problem to me, but I’m a mechanical engineer not an electrical guy, so me and electrical components don’t get along too well. If anyone has great ideas to tell me what to look at in this thing I’m all ears. Otherwise I’m back to square one looking for a new cheato light.
-
If you're super concerned about it - to the point that you're more concerned about it being bad than curious about what it might be - take it out and scrape it off. If it were me, I'd let 'er grow to see what it is, as long as that frag didn't cost too much.
-
Is it possible that what disintegrated was never actually “rock” but merely compressed sand or other junk that has now “rehydrated” and finally broken up?
-
It was one of the freebies. It was called: acro. I actually really like the little thing, and want it to grow into a big thing so I can pay it forward and give some back - but it’s stubbornly not growing. I’m thinking it may be because I’m not giving it something it needs (light flow) because I have no idea what it actually is ?
-
I got this at the spring meeting frag give-away - but I really don’t know what it is. It’s never really grown much, but it hasn’t receeded ever either, so I’m not messing up too much. It’s pinkish with yellow/green tips, and usually has pretty good polyp extension, and when feeding its polyps almost look like a milli. Is this a plating acro of sorts? (The frag growth pattern kind of look like it). I am just trying to know more specifically what it might be so I can help get some better (any) growth out of it.
-
I usually just leave it. Eventually if everything else is good the coral seems to outcompete the algae and grow back over - but I’m no expert.
-
A little update: I haven’t changed anything (literally, no eater changes even) about the tank, and the little guy seems to be making a slight turnaround. The only thing I did do differently, was placement of the coral. I put it on the sandbed turned sideways - trying to get the light very low on it (lack of good placement in shadows elsewhere). It has really good laminar flow across it all day there, and it seems to be doing better, with some better color and tissue growing back. Maybe I was just blasting it with too much light before - even though it was already bear the bottom?
This coral might just end up on my blasto rock which is literally in a completely shaded corner (and has been doing great there).
-
That's a CRAZY price for that salt! Tempting me to switch salts.....
-
There were some other reviews elsewhere on the 'net which discussed actual power consumed vs what it's listed at. So be to perfectly honest, I have absolutely no idea what it's pulling, or what PAR it's actually putting out. You caught me red handed!
All I actually know is that it was cheap, and grows cheato like a boss
-
I posted about this a few weeks ago looking for help selecting a good fixture for cheato. But, now I have photographic proof that it’s super awesome!I’ve always been leery of Chinese knockoff products on eBay. But, I found a 300W LED (output, I think it draws something like 42W) that kicks serious ass.UFO 300W fixture made by Vander. They are all over eBay, and go for a variety of prices. Mine was $27 shipped, and I saw it was down to $25 last week.Proof is in the pudding. I started with a little less than a softball sized chunk of cheato 10 days ago. I harvested it tonight. Probably close to two basketball sized balls could be formed. Half filled a 5 gallon bucket. It essentially completely filled my cheato section of the sump - about a 4 gallon area for cheato, a little rock, and my return pumpdarn!!
-
A "sale" that fast makes me wonder if there was a glitch in the matrix.
-
Looks like that coupon code is good for more than just IO. 20% off already on sale salt is a good deal though.
UR20DEAL - 20% Off Regular, Sale & Clearance
-
My three biggest:
1) First time using kalk to kill aptasia. I had a minor outbreak of aptasia. Nothing terrible, but I wanted the 6-7 of the little buggers gone. So, I mixed up some kalk paste, but it wouldn't flow through my syringe. No worries, I'll just smear it with my finger. I put a big glop on my finger, and into the tank I went. Expect I neglected to turn off powerheads, so it all blew off my finger before I got to my target. Ok, no worries, I'll turn off powerheads. I completed the rest of my paste smearing and was pleased with myself. Turned pumps back on, and the roughly 1/4 cup of kalk paste I had just used (WAAAAAY too much at a single time), went into the water column and the water turned like milk. Big water change couldn't stop the damage. I lost LOTS of coral (almost everything stony) but my fish managed to survive.
2) low salinity: I started up a tank once, and being cheap (a.k.a. stupid), I thought it was smart to run hypo during the cycle. I added my first fish, everything went great. Spend a few hundred in frags and after about a week they melted/withered/receded almost completely. I panicked, checked every parameter I could think of before I remembered my bonehead move. This was on a previous incarnation of my current 30 gallon setup, so I wasted hundreds of $$ in frags to save about $5 in salt. This also lead to mistake #3.
3) Adding salt straight to tank. After my salinity was found to be super low for corals (1.016), I needed to add salt - easy, right? Stupid move #3 - and I'm sure you can see from 100 miles away what not to do: I poured a few cups of salt into the overflow of my tank. At the time, my logic pattern was that it would dissolve in the overflow, down to the sump, and by the time it made it back to the display I'd be fine. Yeah, no. I had little bits of white flecks all over the water. All kinds of shimmering salinity changes observable in the water. The remaining corals I had left were burned (or so it seemed), and I was left with the remains of the last of the frags I was trying to salvage from #2.
Moral of my story: remember: nothing good in this hobby happens quick. Even changes to fix "whoops" should be done slowly/methodically and not with lack of thought on the output of these changes.
-
I never figured out exactly what it was, but I did an extremely aggressive dip: 15 minutes in a solution of 90% RO water, 10% HP (the regular HP from walmart), followed by a swish in iodine water (2 drops of betadine (which is I believe 10% Iodine compared to Lugols which is somewhere around 2-3% I believe) in 2 cups of tank water), followed by swishing in the HP solution, then back in tank. The zoas didn't open up for almost 2 weeks, and the ones that looked rough before the dip completely melted away, but I haven't had anything since, and new growth is already pushing out faster than before. I think it might have actually been a fungal problem, not an actual creepy-crawly pest.
Great Experience at Blue Ribbon Koi!
in Blue Ribbon Koi
Just wanted to put a shout out for Blue Ribbon Koi. While I've lived down the road for about a year, yesterday was actually the first time I'd stopped in. Livestock looked very healthy (corals, fish, inverts), clean shop, and very friendly. Even though I was only there to buy one little fish, John took his time and proudly showed me around to orient me with what's happening there (and not in a creepy overly used-car-salesman way, haha). He's proud of his shop, and it shows. I'm looking forward to my next trip!