Jump to content


WAMAS Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by bues0022

  1. For reasons EXACTLY as you just experienced, I try to have enough foresight to order parts like brake pads, air filters, oil/filter on Amazon at least a few weeks before I want to replace them. They are usually cheaper, and the bots at Amazon always find the right parts for my car - as long as I enter my car details correct. Hopefully you didn’t cut your dinner short! I was getting hungry with your description!
  2. Tank of the quarter? Reduce workload for those involved, no need to find 12 per year, only need 4 nominations per year? It doesn’t fix current problems, but if it kicks back up it might help?
  3. bues0022


  4. If ammonia (i.e. cat pee) has soaked into carpet/padding/flooring, how long would it take to out-gas? My anticipation is that the volume of ammonia needed present in a room which would affect water quality would not be present without some continually refreshed source of the contaminant. Old pee (my guess) would have a decaying concentration, thereby affecting the air/water less as time goes on as it continually evaporates. So, old pee just wouldn't have the ammonia content to keep hosing things up. IDK, maybe I'm off, but if it were me I'd be far less concerned about old issues, and more concerned about things actively happening.
  5. Like you said - Haddoni's are sticky icky!! Mine was green striped, and it's sting was NASTY. For an aggressive anemone like Haddoni, I would definitely recommend against trying to corral/push your fish into the anemone. You can get away with this with BTA's because they are pretty docile, but an unnatural pairing and a nasty nem with result in nem food. Quick story about the potency of a Haddoni sting: I got my green-striped Haddoni from a friend. As he was taking it out of the tank, it wrapped around his hand up to the wrist. It took me and his wife close to 5 minutes to get it off of him. After we finally got it off, he was feeling really lightheaded and dizzy. He ended up having to take a benedryl and lay down for a few hours before feeling better. We were close to bringing him in to the ER. The nematocysts of Haddoni's are powerful. Unnatural pairings can happen, but you're relying on a little luck with this anemone. If I were to have that Haddoni still today, I'd put in a nice pair of Clarkii. Maybe a bicintus, or a pearl-eye clarkii like I have shown below.
  6. Someone in that other thread mentioned byproducts from mold may produce ammonia?? The concept that keeps coming back to me from reading that other thread, is that people kept pointing towards old pet stains as a possible ammonia source. I'm not sure I buy into that thought. Unless the damage from old pet stains leads to rot/mold, once the wetness goes away, the ammonia should have had a chance to out-gas. A current litter box very near your water bin might be able to provide the recurring ammonia source. Is the result of your test the same if you do a different room on the same floor?
  7. If you want a quick pairing, and minimize risk of fish getting eaten, research natural pairings. There's a reason why many people have problems getting percs to host in BTA's - it's not a natural pairing. In fact, I have two percs, one loves my BTA and hardly ever leaves it. The other hasn't looked at it for a second. Un-natural pairings (clowns hosting in nems which are not found in their natural habitat/ranges) can and will happen, but it's never a sure thing, and the fish can end up being eaten - especially by nems with more aggressive stings such as a Haddoni. I've had true percs eaten by Haddoni's in the past. The Haddoni I had was an eating machine, usually the more expensive fish tasted better it seemed.
  8. I dose kalk. I’m a big fan. I have a super simple setup: aqualifter, timer, 10 gallon tank. Timer has pump turn on for 5 minutes at a time, 8 times per night. This is just a little under my daily evap rate, so my ATO makes up the difference. I get balanced alk/ca addition without having the daily chore of adding two-part (I know myself. I’ll miss doses for sure). I never recommend to put kalk in an auto top off Incase it gets stuck on you can nuke your tank pretty fast without a controller, which I don’t have. I also keep it simple. I’m also a fan of starting really slow and only adding corals slowly over time as things become stable and really grow well. Despite what people describe on this and other forums, tanks under a year are notoriously “glitchy”. Can SPS be done really well on a young tank? Yes, but it’s incredibly hard. I’ve seen SOOOOO many tank build threads crumble after about 18 months because the owner built/stocked super fast, went through multiple swings of purchase/die wasting $100’s if not $1000’s. With new tanks, I find it better to ride out the storms than add more gadgets and variables to an already complicated micro ecosystem. Water. Light. Flow. Working too hard to alter one will throw others out of whack. I think others here are steering you in the right track. Something I try to remember in times like this that you’re facing (told to me by a very wise reefer back in my home club when I started): You came here asking questions. Swallow your pride and take the suggestions, don’t defend what and why you messed up. Learn, grow, and be open. (Not putting this all on you here, just a good nugget for many to remember).
  9. Saw this today in my feed and thought of you. I suppose a 10 year old coral might be considered young for you? Crap. That’s anticlimactic. I can’t add the picture. Coral Magazine is looking for corals that have been in home tanks for over 10 years. https://www.coralmagazine.com/looking-for-aquarium-methuselah-old-corals/?fbclid=IwAR1F5cVPcZt7NCRC0ojEVUilfxLxcOQ5pcywG62M0MzbgI46aNuZp7wD3P8 Post fail. 😔
  10. ^ yup. Any place where the flow in the pipe can become turbulent will cause the flow to slow down. Any joint between fitting/pipe, any corner (90's are the worst). I went a little overboard on my first build, and used a dremel to bevel the ID of all tubes to help ease the transition in/out of all fittings. In hindsight, I wish I'd have just heated and bent the tube instead. About the same work and way better for flow. In the end, however, unless you have very high demands of your pump, or are nearing the edge of how much your overflow can handle this is mostly an academic argument and practical benefits are low compared to the amount of effort on the input side to make changes for theoretical flow improvements. I could maybe gain 5-10% efficiency with getting fancy, or I could turn my DC pump up by a few percent also. Minimal cost difference for the same output at a much lower effort.
  11. I’ve always been of the mindset to decouple ATO from kalk. Make it two systems. Then you can still have ATO capabilities no matter what happens to your kalk reactor/reservoir. Just have your kalk our in slightly less than you evap, and your ATO make up the difference.
  12. This story is the best part of my day!!
  13. That looks exactly what I had on mine. Wasn’t ich as it wouldn’t come off when I scraped it. I fed a lot and it went away, but came back about a month later - then it died. Still not entirely sure what it was
  14. It seems like from what you have been discussing and others responding, you didn't let it work. Your tank was started up and full of fish extremely fast, then went almost immediately into "fix" mode instead of letting the tank cycle. Your biological filtration never had time to react to the massive amount of food/fish, and thus you've been chasing your tail ever since - adding product after product, continually swinging your nutrient/filtration teeter totter all over the place. IMHO, this is a very shortsighted thought. I don't intend any harm by this, but comparing one person's success with a "new" tank to yours is just not fair. We've all seen "Tanked" where they setup and fully stock a massive tank in a weekend. Should you do the same? There are always going to be examples you can find to justify why what you are doing should work, but the reality is that you can find examples of success and failure for everything in this hobby. So, bullheadedly plowing forward with more and more chemicals/reactors/additive/do-dads (which can work under the right circumstance, but can also hinder in others), without taking a step back unfortunately usually ends up in a for sale thread a few months down the line as you get out of the hobby from frustration. I think you're starting to take the right approach with starting to decrease food. If it were me, I'd forget keeping corals for a little bit, take all chemicals/reactors/additives/do-dads offline, and go fowler until you get the water figured out. I anticipate you could find someone to babysit the corals you do have left, and you'll probably also save money in lost corals and used-up media in the meantime.
  15. Can you clarify "fully stocked"? What is your stocking list, and how big is the display? I always describe tanks under 12-16 months as "twitchy". You can take a water test and things look decent, but if you were measuring super frequent (like the Triton method stuff I was reading about yesterday), you'll see huge swings. Also, you're describing that corals that are bulletproof (trumpets) and ones that do not have stony components (zoas, GSP, rics) grow fine. Something seems to be messing with stony growth ability - nitrates and phosphates do that. I also enjoy feeding my LPS, and get upset at my shrimp stealing food. I only have two shrimp, so I give each of them a bigger meaty chunk that will take them a little longer to gnaw on so I can target feed my LPS in peace. Even still, I only target feed LPS 1 or 2 times per week. Otherwise my tank goes whack due to not being able to process the nutrients.
  16. Is there anything besides jelly to glue to? Anything left on it? Shot glass isn't a bad idea - I'd toss some sand or fine rubble in the bottom to hopefully give it something to grow onto as it tries to recover. I'd keep feeding it to help give it lots of energy if it were me.
  17. It’s on the bottoms left corner of my 30 cube. It’s tilted at about. 45 degree angle, so it’s not getting direct top down light. It does get pretty good, laminar flow through most of the day. Super high flow seems to have shorter PE, as did higher light. I feed it about 2-3x per week a mix of frozen small bits. I’m running a single radion at max intensity of 45% using the WWC light schedule - so true max intensity ends up being something like 30%. The internet research on this coral was super confusing. Some places say high light high flow - others say the opposite. At least with the color morph I have, it seems to do best with lowish light (I have it next to mushrooms/ricordias) and medium flow (not as high as sps, but more flow than something like a hammer/torch/frogspawn would like).
  18. It’s not as impressive as your coral rehabs - especially since the reason for this coral’s original demise was self inflicted (it was in great health when I bought it from the LFS). BUT, I’m happy that it’s happy. Most of the other corals have responded well to the changes - but a couple still have me perplexed. The PE is awesome on this coral - it’s quickly become the favorite coral in my tank because of its sweet PE!
  19. Thanks for clarifying. My memory was obviously faulty with thinking about raising/lowering them both (thinking 1:1), when it's really 2:5 - hence my faulty logic.
  20. Phew! I’m happy I finally turned this coral around. It was dying due to my own problems, not because it came to me sick or caught a big of any kind. My skimmer was down for a little bit, my cheato light broke, I was feeding heavy, so things got a little out of whack. Zero nutrient export - yikes! Coupled on top of that I put this coral too high up and had my lights up super high. Fixes are in place, coral in a happier place, and lights tuned a bit. Oct 2018: Last night:
  • Create New...