MillerTime

Anyone using the new Icecap 4k gyres? I replaced my single 3k icecap gyre (moved it to my 65g) and installed 2- 4k icecap gyres on my 250g on opposite sides horizontally. I have them both up and running with the app, but the programming is not intuitive. I haven't been able to figure out what the other pump is doing when I have one set to same and the other opposite (I think this is supposed to be anti-sync) and what is pump 2 doing when pump 1 is running....if reverse is enabled, is it running on the opposite pump. Is it possible to set up where I can get the water to move from left to right for a period of time, then switch? Maybe I just need to play with it more to figure all this out.

I think it appears to be lymphocystis. Thank you!

I received a shipment 10 days ago, fish are in a 100g Qt system and fish are being treated with Cupramine and reached 0.5ppm 5 days ago. Koran has some light growths on pectoral fins and a larger white fluffier growth on tail fin. Swims around like crazy, eating like a pig. Hasn't gotten worse over past couple days. Any idea.as to what it could be? No other fish in QT displaying this. Excuse the poor pics.

I was thinking of purchasing the same light to replace my older D120 evergrow that the blue channel went out on over my 65g. Let me know what you think of the light.

At one point I was using an Avast reactor that I modified into a recirculating unit on a 225g. Worked well, but took it off line after a power outage. I'm debating about putting it back into service. I don't have many corals at this point.

After almost 2 years, my skimmer pump stopped on my ATI Powercone IS250 skimmer (Eden controllable AC pump). I cleaned the impeller and volute, but did not use a vinegar solution and it worked fine....for 2 days. The ATI replacement is a Jebao DCT 4000 DC pump (waveline knockoff) . While waiting for the replacement pump, I soaked the original pump with a vinegar solution and it is now working perfectly. It appears that if the Jebao pump goes belly up, I can replace it for $75 and simply put my volute and gridwheel impeller in and be back in business.....am I missing something? If I can do this, it's a ripoff of $140 for a volute and impeller. Oh well, I now have a back up.

Just another note on HDPE, silicone will not stick to it. So no need to put it under your HDPE/starboard. You can silicone the glass/acrylic just above it to keep it down and to keep detritus from getting under. I can't remember which product was recommended, but you can bond the HDPE together. I did not feel it was necessary and wanted to be able to remove later.

Since my 225g is acrylic I had to cut my hdpe down to 2'x2' sections to fit. Mine tank is also 30" wide and it does float and rather well. About a 25 pound rock kept each piece in place until all were in. My 65g has 1/4 in it and as long as you home the corners to go over the silicone, you are good to go but it went in in one piece.

So I have 2 maybe 3, 5 gallon buckets of sand you can have..... Just needs a good washing. The sand I have came from reefrocks.net

My last build (65g with 40g sump) I went HDPE and actually like the looks of it (not as much as virgin sand, but better than I thought I would) and liked the benefits so I recently switched over my 225g to 1/2 HDPE.

Please keep me in mind for the next batch, hopefully that will give me time to free up a tank to grow them out for my 65g set up.

That's awesome Dave! Whenever you get another batch, I would love to buy some.

Thanks... It looks like they are not all that popular. I have 5 in QT right now.

Considering adding lemon chromis to my 225g and wanted to know if anyone had successfull experience keeping more than one of these. Unsure if they will be like the blue/greens that go highlander where their can be only 1. Random internet search yielded little. I did come across a thread here where someone was attempting to breed them earlier this year (Dave S.). Input appreciated.....

The version 2 of the D120s that I have do not have a timer or controller. The LEDs are spread out wider than version 1. Version 1 layout is about 4.5" x 11" and version 2 is 6.5" x 14" even though both units are the same footprint. I've been running version 1s for 2 years without any issues and no burnouts. The version 2 look way nicer than version 1 IMO. Good luck.

I have four of the older evergrow D120 over my 225 g and recently purchased 2 of the newer redesigned D120s over a 65g display and 40g frag tank. Paid $150 each on ebay for the first for and $93 each for the last two I bought. I like the look and spectrum better from the last two units. Not sure about the 165 watt units but there are many re-sellers of these lights. My evergrow lights do not have any markings on them indicating they are evergrow.

Should I also dip my paly colonies?

Interesting about the toxin. Wouldn't have thought that something that small would lead to such a reaction. I'll be cautious. Thanks for the help.

Thanks for the help! I have 3 zoa colonies and 2 zoa frags. My two larger colonies are green and only partially opening so I guess I now know why. I have coral rx on hand. I wasn't doing a dip or qt on any of my coral.... Lesson learned.

It does have green on its back.

Suggestions on how to rid myself of his presence?

Sorry, I guess I forgot to hit the attach this file button.

Found this little guy on my front glass and have no clue if it's good or bad. Started this tank with new base rock and non active sand a year and a half ago, but started adding coral over the last 5 months. I am assuming it hitched a ride from some of the coral I purchased. Need to know I'd it is something I need to be concerned with. Mostly Lps, softies, and zoas. Thanks in advance!