Djplus1

Ok, figure I'll get everyones opinion here. I'm looking for a small media reactor to run Rox .8 and I think that I am going with either the BRS Deluxe single or with the local boys from Avast's MR5. I'm looking at $79 for the deluxe version with Italian made MJ1200 from BRS and just under $100 if I opt for the same pump for the Avast unit. I have a tight space under my stand where I have the eshopps rs-75 sump and one of those 5 gallon water cooler jugs that is my ATO supply. I can't fit the reactors in the sump, that's for sure. Main concerns are fit, mounting options, ease of use and noise level. I would like to place the reactor on the ground next to the sump, which looks like a plus for the Avast unit. Will the BRS be floor mountable or will I need to screw it into something? Do either of these have issues with vibration noise? I know that this is more about the pump, but these are pretty quiet so I hear. How easy is it to refill and clean out the Avast unit? The BRS site has a video and it looks really, really simple. I guess most importantly, if any of you have used both. What is your favorite and why?

I just ordered a couple ATO's from Justin, so I have been looking at this, but it's backordered. I almost pulled the trigger on the BRS single deluxe with Italian made MJ1200 for $79 though. I will wait to see how long it takes Avast to get some more in though before I make my final decision. I like the the way the BRS looks for ease of refilling media, but I'm also a sucker for supporting local niche businesses (as long as the price difference isn't frickin outrageous!, which is not really an issue since we're talking $20 or so).

Just ordered 4 of these. I hope they do work. The person on the live chat system they have said they would be fine and also not impede water flow too much. Do you think that I could ball one of these up and throw it into my filter sock in my 72g sump and have it do anything, or should I just pony up and get a carbon reactor?

Thanks guys, that's what I was hoping. If both of you have experience with Rox, do you know what micron bag I would need to contain the stuff properly, but still allow flow? I'm not seeing many choices and most don't even say. The lowest I've seen was 300 micron, I think. I've even read on threads that carbon reactors have issues with the stuff being so small, so that seems troubling, as I was thinking about getting a reactor for my big tank also.

OK, I officially am a dumb-ass. I sort of knew that I had an issue, but went along anyway. To make this short, I recently purchased some Rox .8 carbon from BRS to use in my media basket on the 14g Biocube. I purchased some media bags from Drs. Foster & Smith. Problem is the bags are 800 micron, and in the description mentions for use with carbon, but not this carbon, apparently. I noticed some pieces slipping out when I placed in the bag, but not so much that I thought it would be a problem. I have my media basket set up with the top shelf being filter floss, second shelf being Rox in media bag and bottom shelf being chaeto. This is where the fun begins. Apparently, the coarse sponge that separates the middle chamber from the return chamber got loose and shifted, and nearly all of the Rox escaped the bag (almost 2 tablespoons) and got sucked into the return pump and spit out into the display. The whole aquarium is covered in Rox now, there are a few pieces of LR that I can probably syphon the Rox off of, but there is a ton of it in the live sand. Is it possible to vacuum "most" of the Rox off the top and leave some stray pieces in, or do I have to break down the tank and buy new sand? If I do that, will I need to let the tank cycle again as there are 4 small fish in the tank along with a small cleanup crew? It's been this way for a couple days as I haven't had time to attend to it also, can I wait till the weekend, or should I do it tonight?

Update, apparently there is a weird problem with the brand new Eheim Jager. I pulled it out to feel it and it was bone cold even though the light was indicating on. Then I plugged into my kitchen outlet and there was heat. Plugged it back into the Apex and put it into the water again turned it all the way up and no heat. Plugged old Eheim Jager into Apex.......heat. Took the new one out again and plugged ito another outlet, no heat this time. I'm wondering if it's a short or something, as it can produce heat, sometimes, but is pretty useless since I can't trust it. Has anyone had an issue like this before? I'm trying to see if premium aquatics will give me a new one, or at least give me a credit. If it needs to be calibrated, how does one do that correctly? I see a slider on top that will supposedly adjust the thermostat that is currently in the middle position, but no markings whatsoever. I don't want to start adjusting something that I have no idea how to use properly.

I know, that's the problem. It is controlled by the Apex (between 78-79), that's what I find so weird.

Mag Drive 5, should be plenty of turnover. The swing is what I'm most concerned about, yes. The lowest I've seen the tank is about 74, but it's usually around 78 and it only seems to be happening lately. It's almost as if for some reason the heater doesn't work from 4am-10am or my house cools down to 50 degrees overnight or something. Neitherof which are likely as both the house and the heater in the tank are on thermostats.

The heater is in the sump and the thermometer probe is in the display. I was considering moving the the probe in the sump though, should I leave it in the display?

It's browser based, so yes.

I would try what killrblue said if you're up to it. Otherwise, Paul at Neptune is your best bet. The only other thing I can think to do is take the Apex home with you and set it up there. If your screen works and you can program it, it will work just fine when you plug it in to your tank. I set mine up for a week or so without any "internet access" at all, but as long as you have your settings right, you can always figure out the internet part later. Like I said earlier, it is really difficult to name and program using the display anyway, so make sure you at least program the outlets at home and test them with a lamp or something so you know they're working correctly.

You can't just plug it in for a second? It doesn't take long. Like I said, you cannot update it wirelessly. I have a router set up as a bridge and if I want to update, I have to take the main unit downstairs to where my Verizon modem/router is and plug in directly.

The heaters are rated for about 80 gallons and they definately work. I had the tank get to 90 degrees before I got the Apex. It seems that the Jager settings are a little inaccurate. I was going to install the second heater anyway for redundancy. I assume that I could set both heaters for 85-90 degrees and just have the Apex shut them down without any fear of overheating, since I'm obviously having problems in the opposite direction.

You should see something like 117 updates flash accross your computer screen. Follow the prompts and the display should work fine. IMO, you do not want to use the screen for programming or naming anyway, it is a huge PITA. If they sold the Lite or the full Apex without the screen, I would buy that.

If all else fails, Paul at Neptune is extremely helpful and can even take over your computer and fix your settings. Shoot him an email at the support line and he answers pretty quickly.

Through the ethernet port wired to your router directly. You cannot update firmware through wireless for some reason also. I learned that the hard way after I installed everything upstairs and had to tear it all down.

Is there any real reason that my tank seems to lose 4-5 degrees at night? I have a 72 gallon with an eshopps rs-75 sump and an eheim jager 150w heater mounted in the sump controlled by an Apex Lite set to keep the heat between 78-79. I do keep the house kind of cool (72-74), but there shouldn't be that much of a temp drop with the heater in place. I see that the heater is on when the temps are cold, so it is functioning, but the colder ambient air seems to outpace the capability of the heater. I also have a second jager 150w I could install in addition. Would that make any difference if they are both hooked up to the Apex anyway?

Same thing happened to me. Reset the Apex by flashing the unit with the firmware. It's the only way to do it without the use of the screen.

I just placed my order! Product looks great, can't wait til tomorrow!

You know, I've heard this before, maybe I will try it. Now when you say similar to mine, do you just mean colorwise? I assume that a perc will not know the difference between a pic of an occelaris and a true perc, right ('cause I can't either!)? Also, how big should this picture be? 4x6 or something like 8x12? I'm sure I can scrape up something suitable on the net.

Well, I gave the Occelaris pair a couple weeks, but no interest so far. We intended on having another pair of clowns anyway, which is why I got the Percs and put them in the tank and relocated the Occelaris'. Advice from the LFS, dictated that the Percs would be much more likely to host, so that's what I'm going with for now. I hear that it could be months till the fish get with the anemone, so how long do I give the new guys till I maybe switch back to the Occelaris'?

What pair is more likely to host my rose bubble tip anemone? 1 black occelaris and 1 regular occelaris or 2 true percs? I have two tanks, so I can put the best set in with the anemone and have the other pair elsewhere.

Hi everyone! I'm looking to purchase some night leds for my 72 gallong bowfront. I currently have the 48"Zoo Med T5 HO sitting on top of the tank with the mounts. I have them slid up toward the front to give the most light to the front of the LR. I have kept the curved glass top sections on the front part of the tank just in case I have any jumpers or if my 3 year old wants to reach up and drop something in. I guess I have a couple questions. First, would it be possible to have night leds behind my T5's or does the light need to shine down from the front? Second, which led is best for this application? So far I have only seen a couple passable options. First being the Aquaticlife .5W 48" 460NM Marine Light Fixture http://www.aquaticlife.com/products/1069 or the Marineland Accent Lighting System http://www.marineland.com/sites/marineland/products/detail.aspx?id=4659 I like the looks of the Aquaticlife and it looks to be much nicer all around and I would only need one (if I can place it behind the Zoo Med T5), but I also like that fact that I can clip the Marineland into the tank. I would however need 2 of these since tank has a center support piece and I couldn't center one light. Price isn't a big deal between these two, since it's gonna be between $100-$120 for either option. My other option is to get the Apex Lunar Simulator, but where would I mount the five loose leds (the Zoo Med does not have any available real estate)? http://www.neptunesys.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=60&Itemid=40 Is there a universal thin 48" mount out there that any one has used for a DIY?

I just use a small return pump and suck all of the stuff out. It's not perfect, but good enough. I personally wouldn't trust my shop vac in my aquarium. I have sucked up alot of nasty things, that I'm sure are not too good for aquarium water.