ArtFully Acrylic (Adam B)

Hey Ben, haven't heard from you in a while. Hows the tank going? Any luck with that scratch from the rock slide?

Haha, touche. One more week to go =P.

Glad could help with the sump trim Eric . That stand is phenomenaaalllllll and even makes me salivate. As for 30" depth...oh yes, wide short tanks are actually some of my favorites as they can be more economical for the buyer, but also give you substantially more space to aquascape with and can be a lot of fun to setup.

Yeah, home depot won't cut acrylic/glass whereas Lowes generally will. when you score make sure you score MANY times before trying to snap. When you try to snap make sure you have the sheet secured well on a good straight edge and if possible a subsequent straight edge under the hands you are using to attempt the snap with may make things a bit easier/reliable. Obviously, if you had a jig saw or circular saw that would be the best route...1/4" acrylic isn't really all that easy to snap clean .

I agree that the glass or acrylic from Lowes will be just fine for you. Though the glass is certainly not 1/4" thick there with the low pressure from equal water heights it will be just fine. If however, there will be a chamber with a differential in water height of several inches on each side you would probably want thicker. In reality, if that were the case, you could just sandwich together two pieces of glass from Lowes for that baffle to strengthen it. In your original quoted numbers it was primarily all of the edge polishing that really jacked the pricing up for you. You will be fine with the unpolished glass...just wear gloves and be more careful when installing and do some of the recommended sanding on the exposes edge to knock out the edge sharpness some and you should be all good.

Steve has the emergency overflow setup as a typical Bean Animal overflow. The emergency overflow on the left is airtight when the system is running so it will run at full siphon in the event that the water level rises to meet its opening. The one in the middle will run full siphon all the time. The Open Channel pipe on the right will run the excess not taken in by the center full siphon pipe. In the event that the middle is clogged up the emergency pipe on the left will begin full siphon. If the water level continues to rise it will block the airvalve to the open channel pipe thereby converting that one also to full siphon. The bean animal system is very efficient and quiet in operation as well as providing multi-level fail safes (which is why I recommended it when doing his build). Between just the main siphon drain and the open channel pipe this system should be able to handle upwards of 2000gph. More info on the Bean Animal system can be found here: http://www.beananimal.com/projects/silent-and-fail-safe-aquarium-overflow-system.aspx/

Thats when earplugs and gags come in handy ....course that doesn't help with getting them to help cut the hole

This is absolutely true. Obviously provided only for comparison sake though. For reference, the sizes quoted are for bulkheads provided by www.aquabuys.com.

Here is a comparison for the difference in hole size needed for Sch40 vs Sch80 Schedule 40 Hole Sizes (Standard) 1/2" Bulkhead needs a 1-1/8" Hole 3/4" Bulkhead needs a 1-1/2" Hole 1" Bulkhead needs a 1-3/4" Hole 1-1/2" Bulkhead needs a 2-3/8" Hole 2" Bulkhead needs a 3" Hole Schedule 80 Hole Sizes (Heavy Duty) 1/2" Bulkhead needs a 1-3/8" Hole 3/4" Bulkhead needs a 1-5/8" Hole 1" Bulkhead needs a 1-7/8" Hole 1-1/2" Bulkhead needs a 2-5/8" Hole 2" Bulkhead needs a 3-1/4" Hole

Braden, nice to see the tank that you mentioned getting the deal on. That thing is a monster....and 475lbs?!?! jeesh. Holy hernia batman!! Come on Steve! The race is on! I didn't go through the blood, sweat (and wifes nagging) of building your tank for it to sit empty Well at least you will finally have your overflows so you can get it filled! Remember, they should be at your door by tomorrow

Its not quite that bad. 8x8x24 consumes about 6-7 gallons of water "space". It would leave you with 8" in front of and behind the overflow. Not sure if I'm completely clear on this question, but if you are asking if you can go out through a 1" bulkhead into 1.5" standpipe under the tank then yes you certainly can, but your flow would be more like that produced by a 1" drain. The other option with the center overflow is to make it a bit longer, but narrower to provide more space in front/behind, but obviously if not setup in the middle of the room or in a peninsula format you all but "lose" the view of the space behind it. The one I mentioned building before is going to be a center of room 4 side viewable tank so the 8x8 setup isn't that bad on it. Further, the tank is 66" long, 26" wide, and 20" tall so it has a few extra inches in the width to compensate some as well...not to mention the additional foot and a half in length... The end overflow may be a good idea that would allow you to setup the tank on the wall and not lose much real estate in the tank, but also provide the option of at least having a peninsula setup in the future. The plumbing could be setup to go out the bottom as mentioned or we could really make it custom by keeping the plumbing, and overflow external (REALLY maximizing internal space), but hiding it by building a box around that side of the tank. Box could be made to match/be part of the stand thereby made of wood, or could take a contemporary approach by making the box from black acrylic =). Just a few other ideas...

Hi Scott, couple things here in order for me and others to give the best guidance... A big factor in the recommendations you are looking for is going to be what you want your water turnover to be...Do you plan on having a total of 10 x's turnover through the tank with 5 x's going through the sump and the other 5 x's being via powerheads etc..? Using this as an example, your 1 1/2" drains are surely substantial enough to handle this flow. As for Schedule 40 vs Schedule 80 bulkheads, the Schedule 80 bulkheads are "Heavy Duty" bulkheads. Technically the ratings between them come down to the PSI of the water going through them and which can handle it. In aquariums we don't even touch the max capable PSI that a Sch40 can handle so that point is mute. However, Sch80 bulkheads are less prone to cracking/leaking upon installation and thereafter if rigid piping puts pressure on them so some customers prefer the "peace of mind". Personally, Sch40 is fine in almost all cases. In response to the question about full siphon overflows, and this little tidbit that you just mentioned in this quote, but didn't share through our emails ....you do have another option then. You could fit an external overflow on the side of the tank. Heck, if you have this 10" space on both sides you could do one on each side (though not necessary), thereby even further maximizing your skimming ability. Having the external overflow on the side would maximize your available in tank space and help keep an overall uncluttered look to the tank. As for the full siphon overflows I think one of the better setups for this is the "Bean Animal" overflow. It consists of 3 drain holes (generally each 1" drains). One operates constantly at full siphon, the second operates as more of a trickle drain with minimal draining occurring unless the tank water level begins getting too high in which case it too will convert to full siphon. The third is a redundant emergency drain that almost exclusively stays empty...made for the complete "crap has it the fan" event where it can convert to full siphon to prevent a tank overflow. Using 1" bulkheads running into 1.5" standpipes this system will easily flow upwards of 2000GPH, so more than meets the requirements of your system. I also like this system because it doesn't require much tuning, it has redundant safety built in, and also because it is super quiet. Here is a link to more info on this system if you want to consider this as an option: http://www.beananima...ow-system.aspx/ Also, with this setup on the side(s) your returns could come up through the overflow and side wall(s) as well, further keeping with the "clean" setup.

Also, I would stay away from GlassCages. I have heard far to many horror stories...Miracles would be better or, as BowieReefer mentioned, you could try that pet place in PA.

Hello Optimus =). Just wanted to drop in and address this one question real quick. I just finished a 150gal with a center overflow. To answer the question on approximate size I will say that the one I built had an 8x8 overflow box in the middle. The drain/return setup in it was very similar to your proposed. However, with you running two drains and two return holes in it I would anticipate it being a bit bigger footprint than this. Another variable is whether you go with Sch40 or Sch80 bulkheads as the Sch80 bulkheads will definitely need more space. Good luck in your pursuit. If you have any other questions that I can help with just post up and let me know

I feel your pain Will. It is certainly a process, but you couldn't have found a more helpful bunch. I started in the fishkeeping hobby keeping freshwater fish for years. They are SO less complicated to deal with LOL. But the beauty and variability you can get with a saltwater fish/reef setup is so much more substantial.

http://shop.stevesleds.com/SPS-Grade-LED-Retrofit-Kit-Package-44-54-tanks-SPS-Retrofit-Kit-44-54.htm Try looking here if you haven't heard of them yet. I have heard many good things and researched their system pretty heavily. Certainly not Radion's, but they do use a very good LED for the systems. The linked kit is $389 so pretty close to where you wanted to stay. Note that its a retrofit kit and does require assembly but they give you everything you need basically except a screwdriver, solder gun, and patience. Even better, if you don't want to deal with the build for $120 more they will build it for you.

Yep Yep, "The Shedd

Yes, yes...was quite relieved actually....and I think my wife appreciated it even more as it gave me a little elbow room for some of the growing "honey do" list . Still can't wait to finish it all up and see it grow to completion though Loni!

You did a good job as directed getting the paint off...stuff worked out well then huh ? Did the fumes cause any laugh attacks or did you keep very well ventilated as prescribed . If I can get a bit of a breather I will try to stop by sometime later in the week to assess in person and test a small area. Obviously though pics are worth a 1000 words they don't come close to showing the "real picture" when it comes to acrylic scratches.

Most Welcome Larry =). HBH, I hope you dont need it either, but glad you liked it =).

It was a pleasure meeting you and building your tank Steve. Enjoy it and let me know if you have any further questions along the way

Hi All, figured I would post up a quick quasi "How To" on Acrylic Scratch Repair. Two recent situations with customers having scratches on their tanks prompted this. Both of them very different however. On one a rock slide cause a deep scratch. On the other, the customer (later scolded for being silly) impulse purchased a used SeaClear tank off Craigslist only to find after cleaning off all the dust from the tank that it was scratched to all holy H-E-double hockey sticks. In the first example we are dealing with a scratch on the inside of an established tank which requires a different approach than the latter which is predominantly scratched on the outside. In the first example the first thing you have to do is find the appropriate grade of wet sandpaper that will make the surrounding material flush with the scratch depth. I generally recommend starting at a higher grit as you don't want to create more work for yourself than necessary and if you start down at 300 grit for something that would have sufficed with 800 grit then you just created several unneeded steps in the process. If the scratch is very shallow then seeing how it responds to 800 grit would be perfectly fine. If its deeper then start with 600 grit. If the selected grit doesn't make much headway move down to the next lower step in grit and so on until you find the "sweet spot". Then the process begins. 1. Sand back and forth across the scratched area exceeding the sides of the scratch by a small margin to blend the surface. Once the surrounding surface area is level with the scratch move up ONE step in grit. 2. With the next step up in grit you want to change directions. If you were sanding horizontally previously now we want to go vertically. Extend your strokes by a small margin again outside the previously sanded area. 3. Move up a step in grit. Repeat this process up in grit and changing directions until you get to the top of regularly available wet sandpaper which is generally 2000 or 2500. At this point you will likely see fine micro scratches or haziness in the treated area. To get rid of this we need to graduate further up the grit scale. 4. Move up further through use of products such as "Micro Mesh" which will allow you to continue all the way through upwards of 12000 grit. By that point you should have a completely imperceptible surface area and be good as new...or DANG close to it. Please note that this whole process and how long it takes largely depends on how large the scratch is and how deep the scratch is. In almost all cases though be prepared for some muscle soreness and set aside a few hours to get the process done. Doing it manually is no fun, but is really the only viable option short of emptying your tank for the repair. Also note, this process is completely reef safe. Now for the second example. After the mentioned customer emailed me telling me about her impulse buy, and horror upon discovery of the abundant tank wide scratches, she asked if I could repair it. I told her that I could but that the amount of time it takes to do it would likely be cost prohibitive considering the cheap price she acquired the tank for and that I didn't think paying me to do it would be in her best interest. I however said I would walk her through the process since she didn't mind giving it a go herself (would have turned it into a sump instead if the process didn't have favorable results). For the most part the process is the same with one key difference...power tools =). Here she was able to acquire the use of an orbital palm sander which I told her would work great. She was instructed to pick up a pack of wet sand pads for the sander which she did....it contained grits 1000, 1500, 2000, and 2500. She didn't want to wait for Micro Mesh to come in the mail so I recommended she get a plastic polish to which she selected Plastx. All of these components are obtainable at your local AutoZone or Advanced AutoParts store. In this case the scratches were abundant throughout the entire tank you just need to do the whole thing which she did...beginning with 1000 grit one direction then 1500 the opposing direction and so on until done with the 2500 grit. When applying the plastic polish I recommend using a microfiber bonnet on an orbital buffer. She didn't have one of these so I asked if she had a drill. She did so I told her to get one of the drill mounted buffing wheels instead and use that for applying the plastic polish. One of the biggest keys when doing this on an empty tank, or the exterior of one that is filled with water (like this one), is LOTS OF WATER. The previous example makes it a given that lots of water will be involved, but don't forget the water in this one as it will make your efforts much easier and the results much better. Keep the acrylic and the sandpaper wet at all times. Another note, rinse really well between graduations of grit in the sandpaper to remove any grit and material from the surface before you move up in grade. The possible results speak for themselves with the attached pictures (link to Flickr picture set) which show before and after shots of this latter example which my customer was gracious enough to send to me. She states that the whole process for the outer portion of the tank took her about 3 hours. Without having done this the tank would have been virtually useless to her, but it now has a new lease on life for our wet friends =). Also note, there are certainly still some fine swirl marks/scratches in the panels, but they are largely not visible when filled with water. To get past this point to having nothing left would have required going through the finer micro mesh stages as previously mentioned...albeit though this would have been done also with power tools in this example. Anywho, I know this isn't the most organized fully detailed Tutorial, but hopefully it lends some guidance to those needing a bit of help in this area. If there are any questions of course feel free to ask below =). http://www.flickr.co...57630018804553/

I agree and understand what you are saying. We are on the same page. I'm just saying that results are likely to be more promising with a quality material is all.

Was a pleasure meeting with you and having you observe some of the process of your tank build this weekend Chris. Looking forward to seeing those pics . It was like I was a quasi celebrity or something ...will be nice to see some actual "action" shots/vids as I naturally can't easily take them of myself. Also, to add to the seam break test Q/A...Origami and NAGA already gave you pretty detailed advice on it, but another thing that can play a role here is the type of acrylic you have. Not all acrylic is created equal and many "across the water" variants just aren't made to the spec we need when using them for pressure vessels (aquariums). Namely, sticking with brands such as Spartech Polycast & Plexiglas G you will have better chances of getting the results you want. So when are you going to get started on that small aquarium that your wife wants you to build her? . You know once you get this 150gal in there she will really start bugging you even more lol.

Yep, that's all you really need right now is your frame and topper(s). I will make sure to let my wife know you said that ....the latter comment I mean LOL.