Will

Thanks.. I will keep an eye on the Alk. It has been stable for the past month and was before the incident until I tried to "help" my evening pH swings. Thanks!

Just wanted to share... I know in the past some have asked about a good Refug light. I took the advice from someone and ordered one from Amazon. I couldn't be happier with the results. When I first plugged this in I didn't think it was going to give enough light or coverage... I WAS VERY WRONG! The Chaeto basically doubles in size every week or two. The light I used before took a month to produce the same results. I got an $8 clamp light from Home Depot to screw the bulb in and I could not be happier. Swiftrans LED Grow Light Bulb, 24w Plant Grow Light with Full Spectrum for Indoor Plants Greenhouse and Hydroponic Growing I paid about $19 and I think it is like 17 dollars now.. check it out. It is full spectrum but shines Redish purple. Enjoy! Will

The "sad" pic was after moving it around trying to get it out of direct flow. At first I thought it was a flow issue so I moved it but now I am not so sure. Ecosmart live has an acclimation light setting for the Radions. I think I am going to decrease the setting to your intensity (its on 65% now.. Ill put it on 62%) and then put it on the acclimation setting which will lower it even more and slowly bring up the intensity over 2 weeks. But that is all I am doing. Like you said... everything else is very happy and I don't want to loose everything trying to make one coral happy. Its just frustrating that it changed and I don't know why. Thanks!

Except the Coral was acting out before that and now that episode was a month ago. 75Gallon. Everything else is doing great. Including the SPS, Anemones, fish, and inverts.

No, none of it is dead. They retract tight inside but they all come out, just nothing like before. At this point I can't be sure if there were any brown strings at the start but I don't believe so. However, I did take it out and dip it the second week into this. Yes, The Alkalinity did get up to 12 for a day because I was having pH swings at night (probably no more than normal) and I had the bright idea to try baking soda. Anyway, I did a 90% water change the next day and it returned to 8dkh. However, the coral was acting badly BEFORE I did that. I will try to ask the guy what he set his lights to. I'm guessing lower than I had, which is why I reduced mine. Its really the only other thing I can think of. But its odd that it would have waited a month to react like that. I feel like I am missing something.. Water parameters are all fine (within recommended ranges for a reef tank). I've been checking them weekly and more frequently when it first started. I moved it lower in the tank, I've lowered the light intensity and I lowered the power on the wavemakers. I could lower the lights a bit more but the other Corals are doing well. I will that a try... Cant think of anything else. Thanks

Hi there... I got a tank I purchased off Wamas. Well established. We transferred water and all... so basically just moved locations. Im not sure exactly how old the tank is but for arguments sake it is well established. I got it June 3rd. June 30th I added a few corals and a very large, very bad batch of snails that were either dead when I added them or died that day. I also made some various other changes to lighting and such. I was trying to understand the programing through ecosmart.... The problem is.. 1st I don't really remember what the initial settings were and I had issues with connectivity so don't even ask what the actual changes were. Ugh! Anyway, The Euphyllia was full bloomed for the month prior to adding the bad snails and making the changes and now ever since July 3rd (give or take two days) it has mostly been retracted... extends but nothing like it was. I tried moving it down. I tried decreasing flow and I tried putting it back where it was with the decrease flow. For the last week I have reduced the Radion Lights from 100% during the day (using the Coral growth setting) to 65%. I don't believe it was water quality because it remained unchanged until my weekly test yesterday where nutrient level decreased.... Not that it was bad to start with. The only other major change was I got a 6 stage RO and started making my own water. It is well water with a water softener. TDS is 0 with one meter and 3 with another.. no chlorine. There COULD be something that I am not testing for but then again I don't know what else to test for. All other SPS and LPS and Fish and inverts seem to be doing great... What should I do? Im at a loss. Euphyllia Happy.pdf Euphyllia NOT happy.pdf

Oh ok.. got it. Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

dpassar12- what is the "black box" you mentioned?

Welcome and Enjoy!

Welcome! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

UGH! my work weekend :(

Thanks. I was wondering if I should pull the two that have spots out and treat with copper? I know I should assume they all have it but was thinking these two are most infected and hopefully keep their gills from getting more infested. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok... The first shortcut I made ends in disaster. I added fish without QT first and now I'm paying for it with ICH. Its 125g and with the rockwork. coral, and about 14 fish (Regal Yellow bellied, Striatus Tang, 2 PurpleTilefish, 2 Gudgeons, 2 Scooter Bleenies, 2 Mandrians, 2 Sandsifters, African Leopard Wrasse , and a Indo-pacific Wrasse.) Some small fish, like the scooter blennies will make it next to impossible to get all of the fish out to leave the tank empty. Plus my only other tank is a 10g (ironically enough) QT tank. So I am not sure what to do. I already lost one tilefish. and the white spots JUST appeared... I inspect them everyday- when they decide to show up. Sometimes they stay hidden. Everything is a few weeks to a month and a half old. The posting says.... 14. INTERESTING FIND: If no new MI is introduce into an infected aquarium, the MI already there continues to cycle through multiple generations until about 10 to 11 months when the MI has �worn itself out� and becomes less infective. A tank can be free of an MI infestation if it is never exposed to new MI parasites for over 11 months. Ok, do nothing and in 11 months MI will be gone on its own. -- However, I realize I will loose some fish. But some people tell me moving them will stress them more and I may loose them because of that! Do fish that show the "white spot" always die if left untreated??