Fazio92
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Posts posted by Fazio92
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Have you ever tried melanaurus or haliocheres wrasses?
Forgot to mention, i've had every "flatworm eating" wrasse possible and still no success even with sixlines in there now.
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Do you have any livestock in the tank?
Aefw or red planeria?
red planaria, yes stocked tank
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Hey Everyone,
Just looking to see if anyone has any Levamisole sitting around for use of killing flatworms. I have had them for several years now and have somewhat kept them under control using FW dips, FWE, etc... but since i am in the process of starting up my long term big display i would like to rid my tank for good of these flatworms (of course with a new QT system for future additions). I would just buy all new dry rock, but i have so much right now that is fully cultured and covered in coraline alage, bacteria, micro brittles, etc... that i would hate to dry it out/not use it. Plus I'm trying to be cost effective especially for 340gal display. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated, especially if you have used Levamisole before. I have followed a ton of threads on RC, but it would be nice to have some WAMAS first hand experienced knowledge. Thanks in advance!
-Anthony
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8' x 3' x 2.2' comes out to 395 gallons... I don't think you lose 75 gallons on the thickness of the glass, do you?
Sorry, 96" x 32" x 25.5" ~340gal
Bigger than i thought
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that is a beauty!
can't wait to see it as packed as the corner tank!
me too
No problem. Thank goodness that lady had all those 6"x2"s and a helpful highschooler next door, because that move probably wouldn't have happened otherwise...
That is a fact!
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8' x 3' x 2.2'
It was nice seeing you again BowieReefer and we could not have done it without you. Man, was that tank heavy!!
Thanks to everyone who was able to make it. David, Mike, and Darren, DEFINITELY could not have done it without you!! Thanks a ton, literally
Just glad no one got squashed moving it down the stairs. Hopefully, i can start building the new stand in the next couple weeks and get this thing running! Thanks again for everyone's help, it is greatly appreciated!-Anthony
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Everyone who is coming to VA, we won't be back till about 6pm
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What time do you plan on being in Ellicott City to get the tank? Can't go to Reston but if the time works for me I can come over and help you load it up.
3pm in Ellicott City. PM me for the address if you can make it.
What time tomorrow do you need help in reston?
Not 100% sure, hopefully no later then 5pm, but i will send you a text when we leave MD to let you know.
Thanks guys!
-Anthony
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Need at least two more people on the MD side.
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Just sent you a text message.
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Hey everyone,
I am picking up a 320gal tank in Ellicott City, md tomorrow at 3pm and need 6 able bodied individuals to help load. I have glass suction cups, just need some extra muscle
. I will also then need help in reston, moving it into the house; which includes moving down a flight of stairs to the basement, so ingeniuity is strongly welcome. Please PM or email me ASAP if you can help. This has to be done tomorrow. Thanks in advance!!-Anthony
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Well, problem solved. What's an easy way to destroy a very large well established SPS reef over the course of a week... Using pH calibration fluid that went bad. Tom, thanks so much for checking my pH which really made me rethink my probes (both brand new) and reagent solution (now proven bad). Once i recalibrated the probes with the new solution, i dropped it in my tank and the reading was 8.15 (not 8.45 which it was reading prior) and i knew that was it (exactly what you tested yesterday Tom). So, everything makes sense now, being that my bad pH readings were causing the CO2 to run full time, significantly lowering my tank pH and turning my tank into a CaRx with once live coral. Because of the readings i did not add Kalk to my ATO which could have saved me despite the bad readings. Huge lesson learned and i hope others can learn from my mistakes. I'm feeling better now that the cause has been found and corrected and hope to regrow my once living reef. Thanks for all the support, another testament to the benefits of WAMAS outreach and knowledge. Thanks again!
-Anthony
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What about phosphate removal media? I have achieved drastic results when changing out my phosphate removal media and kalk in my top off at the same time.
i don't use phosphate media, just chateo and zero phosphates. i also haven't run kalk in my ATO for 2 months.
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What kind of meter do you have? Are you testing in an area where there might be a source of electromagnetic interference that might impede taking good readings from the probe? What calibration fluids are you using? High pH calibration fluids (pH 10) are notorious for shifting downward over time if exposed to air (Thus giving you a higher than expected reading). I couldn't even be sure that my fluid hadn't drifted. That's why I cross-checked it with the chemical test just to get some confidence in the reading.
I sympathize with your losses upon moving. I had a huge loss myself when we moved this past July. I'm pretty comfortable blaming my overly aggressive species-cleansing efforts targeting "Outlaw" palys and the resulting toxins for my SPS losses (80-85% - devastating) but I'll never know for sure.
Do you have a frag tank set up , or can you try putting a frag in the system to see how it fares?
I am using Tunze 7 & 9 reagents, but they may just as well have turned on me. the probe is not near anything, in open flow, no bubbles area. I don't have a frag tank as i have a 300gal tub of rock and skeletons now
Again, the only things i lost were SPS and clams, but zoas, palys, mushrooms, and nems do not look happy at all. LPS look great 
I guess i could put a frag in, but i can still tell everything else is still not fairing that well. The only thing at this point that i can think of is that i have red planetaria (flatworms) and there's a possibility that hundreds have been dying off at a time (though i don't notice it as you can usually smell it, plus i run carbon) making the water toxic. I have at this point also conducted multiple 50-75% water changes so i feel that would rule that out. -
Got some results for you, Anthony.
I ran three tests immediately after opening your water sample, which was packaged with no air on top of it. The tests were:
Alk
pH (using a Salifert test kit and color chart)
pH (using a Pinpoint pH meter & probe - just calibrated)
The good news is that your Salifert alk test kit is reasonably accurate. I measured using a Hanna alkalinity checker and came up with 9.8 dkH.
The pH taken with the Salifert test kit read out around 8.0. This test was performed within 2 minutes of opening the sample. The resolution of the Salifert kit is fairly low, but the color chart was definitely in the range of 8.0 rather than the next color up, which is 8.3.
I then calibrated my pH probe using pH 7 and pH 10 solutions. I then cross checked with pH 4 solution and was satisfied that the probe response was reasonably linear. Then I measured your sample. Ten minutes had elapsed since I opened the sample. The measurement I got was 8.15, which I think was in line with the Salifert test kit reading.
It's possible that the sample shifted pH since you handed it to me, but given that it was packed in a clean container with no air over the top, I thought it would remain reasonably stable. Assuming that it had, my suspicion is that something is wrong in the meter that you're using or calibration fluid / process. At the very least, it's worth cross-checking the probe reading that you're getting with another test kit.
If these readings are accurate (they do seem to make more sense), then your pH is just fine.
Tom,
thanks for taking the time to check that out. I will pick up new reagent tomorrow and see what happens. I also have 2 new unopened backup probes just to verify. If it's not my pH being the problem for my tanks demise, what else could it be? Still not completely ruling pH out until i test again at the source in time, but the sample i gave you should not have changed and should be valid, so we'll see tomorrow.
-Anthony
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I'm no chemist, but if it's in the basement is there anything in your home that could be producing ozone? Could that also be something throwing off your levels? Do you have anything in your home that could be producing ozone or are you using it? I know that my UV sterilizer used to produce the smell of ozone and I have a UV unit on my HVAC.
Just trying to grab at straws here.
Not that i know of and i haven't smelt any ozone in the house.
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Ok, just let a cup of water aerate outside for about an hour. Took the pH probe directly out of the tank and within 2 seconds of placing it in the cup of exterior water it dropped from a reading of in-tank 8.43 to a reading of exterior water 8.26. So, what should i do as i am assuming there is a greater amount of CO2 outside then in my house?
pH in tank - 8.43
pH in exterior water - 8.26
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Anthony, what are you using to measure alk? Are you convinced that you're getting a good measurement?
I'm using a Salifert kit.
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You shouldn't have to. It seems unreasonable.
This guy had similar symptoms in his tank. In both cases, it traced to bad measurements. However, you've calibrated your probes multiple times (with, I assume, fresh quality calibration solutions).
Try aerating a sample of tank water outside with an air pump and stone. Run it for 15 minutes and test it with your pH probe, allowing the probe to settle for at least 5 minutes.
Out of curiosity, have you checked your pH against a regular, chemical-type test rather than your probe? Or taken some other, independent measurement?
I haven't tried a chemical test, but yes my reagents should be good and are high quality. Again, something is off even if pH was reading inaccurately because everything went and is completely downhill. I will aerate it outside and let you know what happens.
If the Alk test is not accurate he could have a higher value which is causing the high pH.
About a month ago when this all started my Alk was about 12dKh if i remember (Ca and Mg were also high). That's why i cut off the CaRx about a month ago.
-Anhtony
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Interesting. 9.6 dKH isn't that high. I'm assuming that your salinity is at around 35 ppt, right?
I graphed some equations a while back, based on some technical journal articles that I'd read relating CO2, pH and alkalinity. To do so, I had to assume that a reference point, provided (I think) by RHF in a couple of hobbyist's articles (beginning with this one) that he'd written, were accurate. While I'm not 100% sure that the reference point was accurate, the series of graphs gave a good qualitative sense of how pH and CO2 were related given alkalinity. The graph that I created is reproduced below.
If I consider the numbers that you've provided, your morning CO2 is around 550 ppm, which is above the average outside CO2 concentration today. Not unusual. The extremely high pH later in the day indicates a CO2 level much lower than outside ambient air. If correct, then in this case, aeration would actually serve to lower your pH. Have you tried measuring the pH of a water sample after it's been thoroughly aerated using fresh air (from outside)?
Are you dosing an alkalinity supplement of any sort during the day?
Haven't dosed a single thing in over 2 months. I ran the intake to my skimmer outside one day last week, but no noticeable change in pH (constantly read through the Apex). You are correct, 35 ppt for my salinity. I really don't want to have to constantly run CO2 to maintain my parameters, as there should be a better alternative.
-Anthony
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What's your alkalinity?
Test Results:
Alk - 9.6
Ca - 500
Mg - 1275
Cu - 0
N03 - 0
pH - 8.24 (10:30am) (but will typically hit 8.54 by 4pm)
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Anthony, I doubt it's the tub, last summer when I kept it outside with fish it didn't rise very high despite being outside and the tubs I have on my system don't keep the pH high and I have to supplement to bring the pH up and run an airline from outside. That said, I suppose it's possible, but I've seen so many of these in action and have used so many of them in the past without any issues that I'm wondering if it's something else. If it is the tub, I feel terrible that I lent it to you...
I think I have a Hannah pH checker that I've never opened, if I do, you're welcome to try it on your pH to see if it's just a test kit issue.
Which brand of salt are you using, by the way? Perhaps it's something to do with that?
Dave, I 100% agree with you. These are the most common large frag setup containers and have proven no problems. I was just going through process of elimination of new things i changed from my new setup. I am just using pH probes through the Apex to test the pH. I am about to go retest the Alk, as i do remember it being high a few weeks ago, but so was Ca and Mg.
-Anthony
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You don't mention if the water in the Rubbermaid tub is being aerated. I had an incident where my Ph was creeping up so I recalibrated the meter as you did. It just didn't make any sense so I used a dip test strip and that showed normal range. My reagent had obviously expired and gave me false recalibrations.
I do have aeration not only from the skimmer, but two aerators rated for 125gal, and an MP40 & MP60 at the surface. i guess i should get new reagent, but i know something is still off since all my SPS and clams died and everything else looks ok, definitely not happy though.
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I have been having the same problem. my guess is that its because we are keeping the windows open more often. When it got colder and we closed them it was normal again. Now that it warmed up a little the last couple of days we have opened them back up.
I never keep my windows open, so theoretically i should have a low pH. I didn't even hook up my beckett style skimmer which had the air intake plumbed outside, to help increase the pH.
Anyone have Levamisole
in General Discussion
FWE has proven unsuccessful for me over the past 10years and levamisole HCL is the main ingredient in FWE. Using the pure form will allow for a stronger regiment specific to my tank than FWE. I will post its outcome after a month of treatment.
-Anthony