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Fazio92

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Posts posted by Fazio92

  1. I thought it would be too Bowie, but it just doesnt seem to have it. The Radiums are 3 weeks old, the T-12s are 3 weeks old. I have the MH's 8 inches off the water...(to the bulb) I have PAR readings as follows:

     

    2" below water-610

     

    11" down-310

     

    Bottom-250

     

    I'm running GFO/Carbon (changing every 10 days or so), all my parameters on water quality are fine: 0 Ammonia, 0 Nitrite, 0-0.5 on Nitrate, Phos 0.03, Alk 8, Mag 1340, Calc 440. I do 20% water change every 10 days or so, I use Reef Crystals salt-.36/1.025ish, 76-78 degree of water temp.

     

     

    The lighting just looks....blah...maybe just me being too anal? (Ron, dont say a word !!)

     

    The tanks has only been up and running for 3 months. Everything looks ok, just to me the lighting.....well, I think you get the point.:wacko:

     

     

    If you are running carbon constantly with a MH 8" above the water you may be bleaching the corals out. Sometimes the carbon can polish the water so much that it increases the intensity of the light hitting the corals; which they may not be use to. Just a thought, as this happened to me. Once i took off the carbon everything colored back up just nicely and i never used supplemental lighting, only halides.

     

    -Anthony

     

    How's this for "pop" with just a 400w SE halide:

    IMG_6414.jpg

  2. I have a Dart too. Better yet, I have a volute which has been taken off my Dart so you can just borrow that...

     

     

    And you're right down the street :) I was going to pick one up from Scott tomorrow, but this would save me an hour round trip. The only problem with just the volute would be that i couldn't get all the dimensions and spaces all lined up without the motor body etc... Mainly a spacing issue and figuring out where to configure the pump once in place, at least i think so.

  3. Hey Everyone,

     

    Just wanted to see if anyone had a spare Reeflo Dart that i could borrow for a day or two for a mockup for my new system. I am running a Dart on my temporary setup now, just don't want to have to break it down until I actually start the full transfer over of systems. I just need to finish the intake for the pump side of the plumbing and then all the plumbing will be complete. It would be very helpful if i could just use an actual Dart for mockup to get all the fittings right and then just do a quick transfer over whenever i actually start-up the tank. Let me know if you have one lying around that i could borrow for a day or two. Thanks!

     

    -Anthony

  4. Josh,

     

    This is exactly what happened to me after the move. I calibrated and re-calibrated my pH probes as it was reading something like 8.6+ and it was a brand new probe. My CaRx compensated for the increase in pH and pumped CO2 constantly, then come to find out all my SPS died. Used a chemical pH test kit and found that my probe was reading 8.76 and was actually 7.6!!! The probe was fine, the calibration solutions were bad! I would highly suggest testing with a chemical test kit and buying new calibration solution and possibly a new probe if old. If there is a digital error somewhere you really want to catch it early.

     

    Here was my thread on it: http://www.wamas.org/forums/topic/46144-why-is-my-ph-86/

     

    -Anthony

  5. See the two white wires? One goes to Input 1 on the breakout box, and the other goes to Ground. You could wire several sensors to the same breakout box terminals.

     

    No power is needed because the sensor is really just a switch to tell the Aquacontroller what to do.

     

    Your program could be something like:

     

    If Switch1 CLOSED Then SUM ON ; If water momentarily detected in stand, the false timer SUM comes ON and stays ON

    If Timer SUM = ON Then ALM ON ; Sounds alarm

    If Timer SUM = ON Then PMP OFF ; Turns return pump off

    If Timer SUM = ON Then ROD OFF ; Forces RO/DI OFF in case that's the source of the leak, and prevents low salinity

     

     

    That's exactly what i was looking for! It's essentially like a DIY ato sensor, but the water is closing the circuit not to mechanical pieces touching, right. Rig it up the same way as an ATO to the breakout box, just the 2 wires per sensor. Easy enough if i'm reading into this correctly. Thanks!

     

    -Anthony

  6. You could just get on of thoes auto shut off systems for your ro tank.

     

     

    Yeah, still need something if i'm not home, so i get an email. That would shut off the RO, but i still need something goes wrong somewhere else on the tank. Slow leaks can easily be refilled by ATO and not noticed by a low sump sensor. If a sensor was on the floor that is an instant response.

  7. Anthony, if you had a leak, it would lower the water level in your sump or cause your ato to run longer than usual. Could you somehow detect that in the Apex code? If you used a separate, smaller ATO reservoir that is more than your evaporation, you could also detect a substantial leak by finding that the water level in the reservoir has dropped more than is reasonable in a window of time. This could be done with a simple float switch providing a binary signal to the Apex. It's not a direct indication of a leak (like sensing water on the floor), but indirect.

     

     

    Yeah, i've already done that, but my floods tend to be due to me leaving an RO valve on too long, etc.. Just a piece of mind thing, especially if I know its on the floor vs. evaporation (as i get those alarms too frequently, and tend to scare me after all my mishaps).

  8. I've made 2 DIY dimmable LED fixtures that i run through the VS ports on my Apex and works great, just like the Radion (simulation wise). I'm sure you could just DIY a strand (minimum enough to run a driver correctly) then just program it to to run on time/day cycles, ramps, etc... Just a thought. I did find it very time consuming making the VS ports matchup to the CAT5 wires to find the right voltage, but it was still a fun learning project.

     

    -Anthony

  9. Hey Everyone,

     

    Just wanted to see if anyone has ever build a DIY leak detector for their controller (Apex, ACIII, RKE, etc.)? I am finding very little google'ing besides using waterbugs, etc... Others have said they have rigged up some sort of sensor that is connected through a breakout box, but i can't find plans/instructions anywhere. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

     

    -Anthony

  10. I have it in the return section of my sump, so the water level there is constant. And it worked perfect before the new pump. I'm going to let it run for another week or so and if it still won't work properly I think I'm going to just replace it.

     

     

    If you want a workhorse of a skimmer i'm selling my MRC MR2 that I ran on the 92gal, rated to 300gal and can also upgrade later on to ?gal. I'll give you a package deal. http://www.wamas.org/forums/topic/47736-fs-mrc-skimmer-sump-waste-collector-chiller-850gph-pump/

     

    -Anthony

  11. Hey everyone,

     

    I acquired a Wavysea with the purchase of my tank and come to find out that it plugs into some sort of a head unit to operate. Has anyone ever tired splicing the wires and just running it without the head unit, or know how to (my electrical experience is no match for this :) )? If not, does anyone have a Wavysea that i could plug into to see if this thing even works. Let me know if you can assist. Thanks

     

    -Anthony

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