geofloors

Absolutely, I run all my tanks this way. George

Alberto, I have the glue you need. George

Great, Thanks for the info! I have not tried the nighttime method. I'll give it a whorl. George

I have always seen the forums link on the home page. I looked at the home page early this morning and it was there, maybe sometime this afternoon it wasn't there... I'm not sure George

I would definitely get them out. The green slimer should have some of the largest polyps seen on an acro. I'm still working on getting my citrons and green clown gobies out. How much did you pay for your fish if they were expensive? I think I paid $6.00 each for them, but it might have been $7.00 Here's the link scott pointed out. http://www.wamas.org/cgi-bin/wamas/ib3/ikonboard.cgi?act=ST;f=9;t=2 George

Great job Tom! George

Dana gave a seminar at MACNA and last months CMAS meeting about this, it was very indepth and complicated. This is all brand new info. Alberto is correct... this is what he spoke about and it's hard for me to believe but I'm not one to judge someone like Dana. I'm certainly not going to remove my lights or add 10 ampmaster 3000s to a 120g. He also seems to think that LED fixtures will be the lighting of the future (less than 1 year ot should be marketed). I agree that feeding will be the next major advancement in the hobby. George

I read on RC that people using the HQI ballast reduces the life of the lamp to 6-9 months tops because the ballast drives the bulb at 70 watts more than it should be run at. That's why it gives a whiter light. The best ballast for lamp life is the blueline electronic. I personally don't use these bulbs but was going to so I did some research. I decided to get the ushio 10000K's instead. George

Do you know if all the tanks are connected as one big system at CC? I didn't check my purchase for flatworms. I've used the reef dip on sps but never specifically for flatworms. George

I would start your levels at 30 BPM and 50 MlPM. Check levels after 48 hrs and readjust. It might take a month to dial in a reactor. Remember to only adjust one thing at a time and take notes of tests and rates for future reference. I live in Catonsville, MD, just outside of Baltimore on the westside. I'm not far from I95 or I70. You're welcome to stop by sometime, just shoot me a PM or email. I appreciate the offer for stopping by; I'd love to see your tank. George

Geofloors is my first name joined with my business. George's floors. I'm a hardwood flooring contractor. For the reactor what size tank is it going to be on? What type of corals do you currently have? For me I have 1 reactor on a 75g heavily stocked with sps and clams; I run 60 bubbles per minute and 75 Ml per minute of effluent. On my 200g system (120g heavily stocked with sps and 11 clams) I run 150 bubbles per minute and 100 Ml per minute of effluent. This keeps my alk at 12 dKh and Ca at 440 meq/l. I use Geomarine crushed coral as reactor media. Between both reactors I use about 2.5 lbs of CC per month. As ridetheducati stated.. a pH meter will work for testing the pH of the effluent coming from the first chamber. It should be between 6.5-6.7 It's difficult for me to use this method. George

The brand is ESV and it's spray dried marine phytoplankton. I bought this at Exotic Aquatics in Baltimore George

I'm pretty sure Oliver raised his babies on frozen baby brine shrimp until they were large enough to eat frozen mysis. I think I'll put my male and female together to see what happens. George

I use this product and as I use up the bottle I replace the water with frest salt water and add a small scoop of spray dried phytoplankton. I sit it ontop of my seaswirl near my lights on the 120g. Every 3 days I can see the pods or rotifers crawling on the sides of the bottle, that's when I feed 3/4 of it to my refugiums and start over. George

The only thing I can add to this is wait 48 hrs before making adjustments. 24hrs just isn't enough time for everything to stabalize. IMO As you get closer to it being dialed in youmight have to wait a week or two before you can see a noticable change. You know you're very close when this happens. One last thing keep exact count of bubbles per minute and effluent rate per minute but only change one at a time. George

I'll bring a few sandwich bags of the spaghetti algae. Who ever wants it can have it. George

Larry, I have lots of it, I origionally got it from Iceman. If you'll be at the coral connection meeting I can bring you some. George

Thanks guys! I know this is like old news but yesterday I made it to Aquarium Center. The montipora was still in the $5.00 bin but the nudis have removed about 90% of the tissue which was there last weekend. I looked around the corner where this montipora used to sit and the tank has 5 different plating and branching montiporas in it. This will be a never ending situation with this place because the tank was never cleaned. I just thought I'd announce my observation one last time. George

I hadn't really given that any thought. I will get to AC tonight and get them.... hopefully someone else doesn't. I just didn't want any part of these guys anywhere near my tanks. I've done some research and I can't find anything about the life cycle of these things. RC has quite a few threads with people who had them and the link you posted doesn't wipe them out for sure. The stuff Tracy Grey used isn't even available anymore. Anyone have anything specific on these nudibranches? I may just buy the coral just to throw it away because I don't want these things to get spread around. I have many tanks just nothing that I would feel comfortable putting them in. Maybe I'll do a bucket with a heater and power head. I'll post in Dr Rons forum about the life cycle of the nudis. and see what he says. George

Thanks for the link Prevyet! I was at the Aquarium Center yesterday to check out this problem and it has not been corrected. It's been two weeks since I origionally posted this. The montiporas that were infested with the nudibranchs are no longer in the tank where they were when I posted before. They have all been moved to the $5.00 bin. This really irritates me that they are more concerned about getting $5.00 for that piece of coral then throwing it away or treating it. It is still infested wiith the nudibranchs. The nudis are only about 1/4" and if you can see them with the naked eye then they have been there awhile. Some unsuspecting person is going to buy those corals and put them in their tank and it will eventually wipe out all their montiporas. And if those people don't know they have them and trade with others then this can spread like wildfire. This concerns me the most because I have 26 different types of montiporas. I mentioned it to Ollie again but he didin't want to hear what I had to say. Take it for what it's worth! George

I have one in my 75g that is my origional cycle fish from 8 years ago. It was a spawning pair until a rock crab got it a few years ago. I also have a spawning pair in my 120. They really don't bother any other fish but they live in the same acro as my spawning citron gobies. Some people hate them and others don't. I'm sure it will be fine in a 75g. I've read that tomato clowns are very aggressive. George

As Alberto said: I have 2X 400w 6.5K on a 120 and it puts out a ton of heat. All that lighting over that tank and you will need a chiller. I would definitely place the spider reflectors perpendicular to the front because these have a wider spread and will put more light into the tank rather than out the front and back glass panels. I can't fit more than 2 VHOs on my tank without placing them under the MHs. I have used coralife 10000K german bulbs in the past and I'm currently using a 250w 10000K Aqualine Bushke bulb. These create great colors and give good growth. The down side is they only last 9-12 month max. Closer to 9 IMO. The 6.5K last a long time but don't give you the coloring that a 10K bulb does. I just saw 250w 10000K Ushios on Oliver tank today and I think they are as bright as an Iwasaki. I have no experience with the 20000K but I would throw away those sunburst bulbs before they burn your house down. I'll measure the lux of the Ushios next time I see Olivers tank. George

I agree with the above. Stay away from acros to start but get some montipora digitatas and/ or plating types. When you see these growing then go for an acro. The green slimer should do fine with your setup and I have quite a few sps under 440w VHO on a 55g. These grow as fast (if not faster) as under metal halides. Some actually look better under VHOs. It just takes a long time for the acro to make the lighting transition. Some never make it. Remember sps= calcium concumtion. Clams: I wouldn't even try to keep maximas or croceas but derasea and squamosas should fair fine in there. I have 2 deresas and 2 squamosas in the 55g mentioned above. They are on the sand bed about 20" from the lights. Even though you have almost 10w per gallon there is just not the intensity needed to keep many types of clams and acros. There are a few exceptions to the rule but not all will work. HTH, George

I was at Aquarium Center this evening and noticed montipora eating nudibranches on a big Montipora cap in one of the sales tanks lit by MH. I'm not posting this to talk bad about AC but I feel others should know. I spoke to Ollie about this and he said he was going to work on the problem. George

I actually use an IMac and these are the latest upgades for the Mac. Macs are always behind the times compared to Microsoft George