basser9

The 6x10 heatsink with a fan/splash shield and hanger is 43.00 thats a great kit. You have plenty of places to get the leds...... If its 3ups you are looking to get STEVESLED makes anything you want in a rebel. I just ordered 2 of there heatsink kits they look very nice.

A tailspot or lawnmover blennie is a small fish. No a kole is fine get one small....a small atlantic tang there are a ton of fish that fit that bill. You can get a very small yellow tang when it matures there are plenty of members looking for tangs to buy.

You must have something that eats algae from sandbeds. If it is sugarsand then tiger conches and cerith snails[or hermits] Tailspot blennie......lawnmover........small kole

You dont have one thing in your tank that eats algae........bad news I would have if it was my tank 20 cerith/1 tiger conch/1 turd cucumber 2 mexican turbos and 5 reg turbos plus 2 fish that eat algae. Once you allow any hair or slime algae to appear its way harder to eradicate then if you wait to after the fact.

A small red emerald is sometimes the only thing that can rip out a patch of hair algae or eat bubble algea. The green ones are not as good cleaners to me but work but once they get big they are bad news. Putting a big one into a tank with very little algae is asking for fish losses.

Have you looked at the DC10000 ITS A DC PUMP. They are built like a rock only pull around 80 watts. I like the WB10000 but think the dc10000 is built better and better on power draw, A WB10000 would be my 2nd choice.

http://www.superskimmer.com/SumpBuddy40.htm This will fit for sure there are great pics showing it in sumps like yours. A deepblue4 would be a good choice for a pump.

The problem with heaters is they break open or crack and poision the tank a gfci can handle any other issue.

Here a pic of the mix from a 150 kessell' They do a great job of mixing chips in there arrays unlike most manufacturers You did not say your tank size the 350w has a nice spread for a 40 breeder but you need a 350 to get the par for sps on a 110. For the same money you can get a small RAZOR which is way better then the kessill. Unless you need a small led for some reason get the razor.......not even close.

The hobby has made great leaps in the 25 years that i have had reef tanks but sadly no matter what you do if you run a heater theres a real chance the stupid thing will become a time bomb. Just dont run one get a dual temperature controller use fans to cool and uv/mag pumps with a 2nd skimmer....etc to heat. Why run 500/1000 watts to heat your tank when internal pumps can heat them and do some other chores at the same time.

The pump and the skimmer should fit unless i misunderstand your setup. The sump buddy is pretty thin. The pump goes right next to it in your sump.. The deepblue is internal and so strong i run a etss1000 with one believe me its perfect for the sump buddy.

Thats why you run GFCI CIRCUITS the problems with heaters are always going to be there just get read of them. When they burst or crack they can poison everything.....just dont use them.....simple Ever seen a post that my mag exploded or my uv blowup not really but heaters exploding and nuking a tank happens regularly.

http://www.superskim...SumpBuddy60.htm Will fit easy and unlike the ratings on NW these really do have the capacity on a tank like yours and still be small. Take the ratings on any NW and subtrack by4 and thats what they are really good for. Use a internal pump i prefer the deepblue triton 4 will only pull around 45 watts with the sump buddy.

I dont run heaters at all its pretty simple to keep your tank around 74 to 78 without them. In the winter you can run a uv and mag to keep the temp up and you can put the uv on a temp controller if you want more control. If you have the room a aqua-c and a large mag can be run on a temp controller this combo can add heat in the winter also. Why waste the energy on a heater put those watts to good use.

Kick ick dosent work i know because i lost alot of fish trying to make it work. Wonder how they can sell it with a straight face. On your algae try putting some mollies in there they are great should strip any algae away then pass them on. I had to lose a few tank full of fish to ick before i bit the bullet for a 40breeder quarantine.

I had a emerald move a rock the size of a football.....they are the strongest darn things i have ever seen. It might have moved a rock on to it when it was sleeping and it spazed out. The big clawed mean ones are super nasty. They can pop the H-E-double hockey sticks out of bubble algae. My experience with triggers is pretty much what the book is on them they do best in a predator type setup put them in a reef at your peril.

If ever there was a back alley fixture its a evergrow. The drivers from alot of chinese factorys are bad to the bone including all kinds of phony Meanwells. The pcbs that these fixture have are crap and the mounting to them is the real problem. 99 PERCENT of chinese emmitters are attached with cheap silicone paste. They are not even touching the pcb/heatsink half the time. The thing they call a heatsink may feel cool but the led can not transfer its heat to the heatsink correctly. Putting a cheap optic even makes it worst because it traps more heat. The whites are a real problem because alot of them are made with a cheap high temp silicone to hold the phosphor on it. What i do to any chinese led that i may use is to attach it to a star first with arctic cement then i solder it. My 420nm were 40 degrees cooler then when i tested them on the stars they came on. The evergrow were horrible a year ago in terms of quaity control the new ones may be better i would just keep in mind how shady alot of these back alley chinese vendors are. I saw a back alley chinese fixture that looked like a evergrow but had a real heatsink and each led was on a star. I cant remember were i saw it but that was interesting because you could add crees or rebels to it real easy. It may seem like i am very negative about evergrows i am not it just is crazy to me to think there is not a night and day difference between a evergrow and a razor.

I gave up on any trigger in any type of reef they get a certain size and they go crazy. I had a CLOWN after 1 years pk up my hermits and crash them into the rocks then start to pk up rocks and hit the glass......Thing went crazy. I tried a NIGER he was find then it went crazy to no matter how much i feed it it attacked everything in my tank including most of my fish. It was killing everything for fun.

Funny i love the kessill 350 if it was 100/150 dollars. Alot of money for a chinese multichip. I got 2 of the dream chips to make 2 fully controllable diy kessills,.....DIY ALL THE WAY

If you can open up a chinese fixture and solder on replacements then fine but if you cant then a chinese fixture is junk.....period. The wiring is junk....the power supply is the worst thing you can imagine..a time bomb. It is no big deal for me to diy any problem but alot of people cant. The quaity control is so bad on the evergrow that alot were shipped wired backwords seems they got confused about VOLTS.....minor stuff. Look i like the cheap evergrow fixtures but i would go thru it with a fine tooth comb and rip it apart and modify it....it is junk period compared to a razor... Plus unless you have a par meter you dont know what a led does over a years time. I had a strip of XRE rb over a tank for 6months that were exposed to saltcreep and all there lenses came off....Even crees dont take kindly to moisture and heat. The first fixture from china[bridgelux emmitters] was the maxspect they made the mistake of telling the truth about the chips they used and said they would more then likely degrade 33percent over 3 years and should be replaced in 2......was funny because sometimes its better to lie. When i talk about a fixture being chinese i mean the EVERGROW ones because the RAZOR is chinese.

Triggers sleep in caves and can without a doubt be attacked by a large sallylightfoot or emerald. Crabs and triggers are a strange mix unless you are feeding hermits to them. Triggers are great fish but only really should be in a fish only.

I dont want to muddy this post as the question was about buying a RAZOR but one of the reasons the razor is worth more is because they dont use cheap asian built bridgelux chips. All 3 watt bridgelux chips you buy will be a chip made in ASIA licensed buy the american co.,,,Alot of fake chips around with very poor quaity issues. The biggest problem is with the carriers they come on and the way they get attached to the heatsink. Even the non ES rebels degrade really fast if overheated even a little bit. The other chips from china that are knock offs are really bad if the JUNCTION temp rises very little. These chips are cheap and easy to replace so thats a factor in there favor.

Chechout this tank one side the RAZOR the other 2 of the chinese fixtures so many here have bought.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y-nnJDj2sJ8&list=UUf81VnlOpbuNrNlt459jpwA&index=1

If you are setting up a reef tank which to me means a decent amount of sps then the ideal that you should start with a cheap led is a little strange to me. You are finally starting to see some nice under 500.00 led replacements for mh setups. A razor is without question a direct replacement for a 250 watt mh setup. If you were to buy a lumenbright reflector a nice ballast and 3 20k[2/3 year supply] radiums this would be about the price of the small razor/large razor. To me the razor is the game changer not the chinese bridgelux at least for SPS . Resale on a razor should be really good over a long period and a mh setup is a dime a dozen and the bridgelux fixtures are really junk so the resale value does matter if all the other factors are a wash. When you look at your difference in electric usage the abilty to rampup/down the great color from 420 to warm specs the par of a 250 mh and good spread......then realize it cost really the same as a nice mh setup GET A RAZORhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QQYuGHbN9nc Heres a 220gal with 3 120 razor look at the coverage this is such a step up from MH in terms of electric/heat its unreal I ran 4 lumenbrights with 250watt phoenix on a 150 and these cover better and have the same par...1000watts to 360. .

I meant TOC[total organic compounds-carbons] as thats what tested . RSS is made from dried rea sea seawater so it has organic compounds[carbons] in it unlike synthetic saltwater mixes. Heres a chart done on Sanjays 500 gallon system that measured the TOC levels in his reef tank over 2 30 day periods. The test was on 2 types of skimmers and his toc levels and as you can see there were rises in the toc that one could see where water changes with RRS and biopellets would more then likely cause a problem long term. This is really 1 of only a couple of experiments ever done on TOC levels and reef tank and should bring home to anyone with a reef tank that Very heavy skimming is very important as is not adding any unnecessary carbons to your tank.