lman

I use two brute trash cans. One to hold water and one on wheels to drain water. Allows me make sure I have enough water to be replaced.

Pm sebt

Does anyone know a local store that carries pe mysis. I have not found it recently. Thanks-Paul

Thanks

Just had a bearing freeze up on my 500s motor. Have a temporary fix. Anyone know where to get spare parts? Thanks - Paul

I have a 300 and am trying to convince my wife that I need a 500 (FOWLR) for coral eating fish. two years ago she was completely against it now she is only mostly against it. I would go as big as possible. I had a 125 for 10 years and the 300 for about 2.5. The bigger the better.

I recieved a RBTA about two years ago and it has split into 4 and all are doing well. Three percs call the anenomes home. Water parameters are good with no phosphates and nitrates around 5-10. Any ideas on why my RBTA's don't have bubble tips? Finally decided to ask the question after the pers began hosting a few months ago and I saw no change. thanks

Three years ago I had one and it mostly nibbled on the sand and rock eating algea. It did eat very small mysis and cyclopeeze. Hope that helps

Great job!

I have a blue linkia in the tank and it moves all around. Has been in tank about 8 months. Acclimated it over 4 hours using drip. Need good diatom, algae for it to do well, but no issues so far.

Thanks for all the help. I have been doing a lot of reading on tangs and wanted to know people's experience in adding fish after a sohal tang has made the reef tank home. Everything I have read has said that they will not necessarily accept new additions, but I know that people have had to add additional fish. Thanks

I currently have one tang in my tank (300 gal) and want to add some additional tangs. I have done a lot or research on-line, best tangs, ... One thing that was not mentioned was how best to add the tangs, one at a time, all at the same time. My current tang is a black tang that I have had for over two years (before prices got crazy) any suggestions on how to add and types of tangs to add. Thanks

When measuring the pH in the cup, it is within a few seconds of the water being out of the tank. I move the pH controller from the tank to the cup and take the reading. Doesn't seem like enough time for the CO2 to be removed that quickly. I only discovered this as I tried different aeration techniques inside and outside the house to determine if I had excess CO2 in the house. It seems I get a different reading by just having the water in the cup. I don't have any major surface agitation other then the overflows to the sump. I am going to take on of my overflows and raise it in my sump so that it will agitate the water in the sump. I also will try a powerhead in the tank to agitate the water to see if I get an improvement. Before I drill a hole in the wall to pump in freash air I want to make sure that fresh air will fix my problem. Haven't approached my wife about drilling a hole in the side of the house. Thanks

Quick question on measuring pH and see if anyone has seen this before. I have a tank that has a typical low pH. 7.8 as a low at night and then 8.0-8.1 as a high after the halides have run a while. I decided to measure the pH in a cup (after aerating for one hour outside) to see if I got a difference. pH climbed to 8.1 from 7.9, I then repeated inside and I got the same result. I then measured the pH in a cup with no aeration and it climbed to 8.1 from 7.8 in about 5 minutes. Any ideas on what is causing the problem. I checked the pH in the tank with a salifert pH test and it comes close to the controller pH. Thanks