Brand New Tank with Brand New Aquarist

[Tom C.]

So I posted the shark idea and it apparently was not a good one so lets go with a new idea...

I ask WAMAS Members what to do and then take their advise and see what happens. I will give you the current scenario.

1. Equipment that Tom has or will be getting... A 220 gallon Tank. It arrives a couple of weeks ago. He and Nate get it moved into the final resting place in the basement. They have an RODI and fill the tank with 220 gallons worth of salt and let the RODI go into the tank. The tank is full and about 2 inches of sand have been added. With me so far? I have ODYSSEA 72" 384W Aquarium Power compact light+6 Lunar for lighting. I know its cheap. I have a FLUVAL FX5 AQUARIUM FILTER running in it also. I have a ASM G-3 Protein Skimmer that will be arriving soon. I have purchased a 40 sump from seantadez that I will be picking up this Sunday and installing.

 

2. Suggestions on equipment that Tom should get that he hasnt thought about... WavySea Ocean Simulation or a brand that someone could recommend. Powerheads. Anything I am forgetting?

 

3. Substate: I have added about 2 inches of sand which are currently, about 80lbs argonit, 30lbs of that live sand with salt water in it. One 30 bag of crushed coral. What kind of sand would you recommend adding to the mix or should I just get it used on WAMAS? I am picking up about 50lbs of live rock from seantadez but could get more. How much is enough?

 

4. Live stock: Currently I have a banded moray Echidna polyzona, V-Tail Grouper Cephalopholis urodelus, and Rectangle Trigger Rhinecanthus rectangulus

 

I have the salt the sand and the filter all in the tank. There is the 30lbs of the bacteria sand that I added. Do I need to aquire bacteria from somewhere and add it to the tank? Or can I add live rock and let it do its thing naturally? I know that Centerville aquarium sells bacteria in little 55 gallon packets that you can add to the tank that is supposed to accelarate the bacterial growth. What are the pros and cons of that?

 

I now need some advise on how to continue. I will take some pictures this evening of the tank and will post as I get the tank more up to speed. But in the meantime please let me know your thoughts. Thanks.

[jamesbuf]

I would just add the liverock and let it sit for a couple weeks, maybe longer. In regards to whether you need more liverock, it depends on how much more livestock you plan to add. I thought you had a stingray, if so, I would make sure to leave alot of rockless swimming surface for it. And remember to move slow. I'm sure other more experienced members will chime in with more directions as well. When in doubt, ask the club. Thats what I do.

[rsaavedra]

I have ODYSSEA 72" 384W Aquarium Power compact light+6 Lunar for lighting. I know its cheap.

I have a ASM G-3 Protein Skimmer that will be arriving soon.

 

One 30 bag of crushed coral.

I am picking up about 50lbs of live rock from seantadez but could get more. How much is enough?

 

I have the salt the sand and the filter all in the tank. There is the 30lbs of the bacteria sand that I added. Do I need to aquire bacteria from somewhere and add it to the tank? Or can I add live rock and let it do its thing naturally? I know that Centerville aquarium sells bacteria in little 55 gallon packets that you can add to the tank that is supposed to accelarate the bacterial growth. What are the pros and cons of that?

 

I now need some advise on how to continue. I will take some pictures this evening of the tank and will post as I get the tank more up to speed. But in the meantime please let me know your thoughts. Thanks.

 

If funds are avilable in the near future I would replace the Odyssea fixture "I've heard that they are poorly made and that some people had fires because the poor components" I have never used one and I am scared just to think about it.

 

I own a ASM G3 and it's awesome, not so sure if it would work on a big tank like yours since I have read that ASM over rates their skimmers, I've also read that G3's are rated at about 180G but if you have the recirc mod it ups tp about 220G so if you do the mod I think you should be fine.

 

I don't like crushed coral but looking at all of the other sand you have I say 30lbs of crushed coral mixed really well with all your existing sand will give a nice variety on substrate size, getting a couple of punds of LS from different members will help you diversify your sand bed by adding good bacteria and diferent crustaceans. I would go with at least 1lbs of LR per Gallon, remember your LR is major source for filtration, I wouldn't skimp on it, you can by base rock from and seeded with live rock in the tank, it will be more cost effective for people that have bigger tanks.

 

BTW Welcome to the Club!!! Word of advice: don't rush it, nothing comes from rushing a reef tank, if you rush it you will have long term problems and perhaps multiple deaths... this is a great club ask and the answers will flow... Hope to meet you someday!

 

Raf

[dhoch]

I would definitly be adding somethign for circulation (do you have any flow other than the fluval?)

 

I would also consider a bigger skimmer as well... I run a G4 on a 180, and would consider going bigger if I had the space.

 

Dave

[Tom C.]

Thank you for the heads up. If I have the G3 comming in already. What is the rule of thumb for running 2? Can you do it? They would be in the sump anyway so no one would see them and I could get a less expensive second skimmer. But I dont want to do something that will compromise the tank.

[dbartco]

Is this tank staying fish only or reef?

Ray or no ray?

What additional stocking do you plan to have?

 

Many of your questions can be answered concerning lighting, amount of liverock, filters, circulation, etc.. if we know the basics of what you are trying to accomplish.

[Tom C.]

Is this tank staying fish only or reef?

Ray or no ray?

What additional stocking do you plan to have?

 

Many of your questions can be answered concerning lighting, amount of liverock, filters, circulation, etc.. if we know the basics of what you are trying to accomplish.

 

I think I want to have sand cover most of the tank with the back wall all live rock. Maybe get some clay and have the back wall of the tank a live rock wall. I would like to have fish only. But I want to make sure that the fish I get will get along with some clean up crew members. I have a fluval fx5 running now and that is the only circulation. I would like to know what the best wave makers are so I can get two and put them in the corners of the tank for flow. I hope that kinda gives you and idea of what Im trying to do. Do you need more info?

[Tom C.]

19-29 August Update: Things I did this past weekend I purchased some live rock from Ranchu. The rock did not have any color on it at all and I am afraid that I bought base instead of live rock. Can anyone tell me a quick way to tell if I got live rock or new live rock or base? Also he gave me some "live sand" which looked like kitty liter. I went to fins and feathers which was around the corner and asked them what it was. They told me it was crushed aragonite. Does this mean it will take longer to cycle?

 

I met with seantadez and we ended up breaking down his friends tank. It was a nice tank and he had some really good live rock and sand as well as huge damsels and some other life. I took the huge damsel and the chromis. I have the chromis in the coral tank with the damsel in the predator tank. He is much larger than the grouper and the trigger currently. We actually had to saw the tank to get a 40 gallon sump out of the bottom of the tank. There was some sand left in the bottom of the sump that had alot of life in it. I added that to the 220.

 

I got another bag of the carib sea bacteria in a bag sand from seantadez and added it to the 220. I added all the live rock and checked the salt. The salt level is now perfect. I am going to update my album with some pictures I took this weekend. I have a take measure picture that shows how much sand is not on the bottom of the tank. Please take a look and provide any advise.

 

What is a good brand heater that would get a 220 gallon properly heated?

[dhoch]

I'm little confused on which questions are outstanding... I would defiilty hold off adding anything more at this point... you are probably going to have a cycle and you don't want it to be bigger than it allready is going to be witha ll that you have added.

 

As for a heater... I would do two smaller ones on a tank that size, depending on the room it's in either a pair of 250W or a pair of 500W...

 

Dave

 

Ohh and as for a brand... I personally like the titanium heaters...(Won is what I use)... regardless you may want a seperate temp controller as well.

 

Dave

[n8dogggg]

I'm little confused on which questions are outstanding... I would defiilty hold off adding anything more at this point... you are probably going to have a cycle and you don't want it to be bigger than it allready is going to be witha ll that you have added.

 

As for a heater... I would do two smaller ones on a tank that size, depending on the room it's in either a pair of 250W or a pair of 500W...

 

Dave

 

Ohh and as for a brand... I personally like the titanium heaters...(Won is what I use)... regardless you may want a seperate temp controller as well.

 

Dave

 

 

Dave, you don't find any corrosion with these heaters. I bought a titanium heater not too long ago, and w/in the first 2 weeks of having it in my salt water tank, it appeared to be rusting. I took it out immediately and replaced it with a glass heater. I may have just had a bad apple. I do like the idea and look of the titanium though so might want to switch back if yours doesn't give you any problems.

[dhoch]

I've had my 2 since my 180s inception... about 1 year 8 months ago... I periodically clean them by soaking in a vinegar solution, but other than that I've had no issues, and no rust...

 

Dave

[Tom C.]

I've had my 2 since my 180s inception... about 1 year 8 months ago... I periodically clean them by soaking in a vinegar solution, but other than that I've had no issues, and no rust...

 

Dave

Someone on Ebay is selling an 800watt titanium heater with a controller http://cgi.ebay.com/800-w-Titanium-Aquariu...1QQcmdZViewItem Do you have any thoughts?

[dhoch]

I wouldn't do an 800W one... do a couple of smaller ones...

 

I don't know anything about that brand...

 

Dave

[Ne0eN]

I agree, you're better off with 2 smaller heaters than one big one. The reason is, if you have only one heater and it fails, you have no backup, and your reef takes a temperature dip.

 

I've had Won digital titanium heater for over a year and have not seen any rust. (I have a controller - just in case the heater mulfunctions)

 

-- Rob

[Tom C.]

I agree, you're better off with 2 smaller heaters than one big one. The reason is, if you have only one heater and it fails, you have no backup, and your reef takes a temperature dip.

 

I've had Won digital titanium heater for over a year and have not seen any rust. (I have a controller - just in case the heater mulfunctions)

 

-- Rob

Makes sense to use two heaters in one tank. At least you will have some heat if one goes. Any ideas who sells some cheap go ones?

[ReeferMan]

Don't skimp on a heater. You livestock depend on it. If you get a cheap one it can short and either stop working (freeze your fish) or it can not stop (fry your fish). Most people that have heaters also use controllers besides the one that the heater comes with because they are more reliable and if anything was to short they would catch and half way correct it.

[dhoch]

What he said

[rocko918]

I would not recommend any WON heaters. darn thing fried my tank. Like most said get something to control it.

 

http://www.wamas.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=8294

 

Finnex titanium heaters with a Ronco controller

[Tom C.]

I have a 40 gallon tank that Im making my sump. I will be cutting the plexiglass this evening and glueing. Question I have now. How do you know how big the pump needs to be to get the water out of the sump and back into the tank prior to the sump overflowing with water? Is there a formula or do you just go by the size of the pump and figuare that is enough?

[YBeNormal]

You need to size the sump and the height of your baffles to accomodate the full amount of water that will be in the sump when your return pump is turned off (or fails). As I mentioned in your other post, I can show you my setup this evening and explain how it works. In spite of many mistakes I've made over the past few months and several short power outages, I've yet to experience an overflow.

 

~Bob

[HowardofNOVA]

First of all, what size overflows do you have?

1" Bulkhead overflows allow about 600 gph to drain out, 1 1/2" is over a 1000 gph.

So rule of thumb would be nothing stronger than would overflow your tank ....a...overflow!

BUT, I'm a big fan of one large pump to run the whole system and using Ball/Gate Valves to split flow to different directions.

 

Currently, I'm running a MAG18 1800gph for my 90g tank. I'm splitting it with one valve going to UV Sterlizer (1/4 turn open), one to Downdraft Skimmer (Full open), one to Frag tank and other to main tank.

But I've come into issues that I'm not getting enough flow, so will probably take the skimmer offline and add a separate MAG9.5 to it by itself to get more flow to tanks. That will get enough circulation from sump to tanks and will subsidise additional flow in the future with Tunze Nanostream when they become available or Stream if a good deal comes up soon.

[Tom C.]

I have to check tonight on the size of the pipes. I think they are one inch a piece and there are two of them. But I want to be sure. I just got some T5's from YBeNormal so I might be putting those together this evening also. But either way I will check it out and update the blog.

[Charlie97L]

i've seen you mention clean up crews in both your threads... if you have a tank with triggers and wrasses in it, as you are planning, dont' bother putting any snails or small inverts in there, unless you're feeding the fish. they'll kill them all within a day or two.

 

"clean up crews" as they are, are really for reefs only, not the aggressive tanks.