ADA Style Stand

[YHSublime]

 

So after much debate, I've figured out how I'm going to do an overflow on a nano peninsula tank. I have the location planned out, but also want it to look great, that's half the battle.

 

I have been looking for stand plans to build a ADA style stand, and have found one that fits the Mr. Aqua 22 Long, but perfectly.

 

There are a couple of things I need to figure out, like how my lights will be hung (x2 Evergrow IT-2040's) and what I'm going to use as a sump. Here is why the perfectly fitting is an issue, I would like more space than what a 10 gallon sump can offer, and a 20 long wouldn't be able to fit in the stand as is.

 

I've taken the plans, and added 5" around, this gives an extra 10" of room Left to Right, and it adds another 10" Front to Back, not that I needed more length. The additional 5" off the back will allow me to run the external overflow box, and build a cover over it. What I'll probably end up doing is adding strips of wood around the top 5"'s to create a wedge for the tank, and a ledge for whatever.

 

So, here it is:

 

Door x2 (24"x23")

Side x2 (22"x30")

Top x1 (22"x46")

Bottom x1 (22"x46")

Back x 1 (46"x30")

Front x 1 (6"x46")

 

If I've done my math correct, everything adds up. I'm hoping it will look something like this (please excuse my non straight lines and crappy drawing.) Not included, but I'm going to build a little cover to go over the external overflow box, and cover up the pipes and whatnot leading down into the guts.

 

 

 

 

Now for the lighting. I'm either going to build a canopy, and hang them from the ceiling, or I will find some way to bend a bar, and have it swoop over the 41" of external overflow box and tank. I'm wondering if at that length, with about 22-25lbs of light, that it would hold without flexing if bracketed?

[YHSublime]

I don't know why that came out so tiny. Upped the font. 

[Pedro]

Remember to keep in mind where you will be placing your mp10

 

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[YHSublime]

Remember to keep in mind where you will be placing your mp10

 

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Was thinking about that. Will have room on the back wall, will also be able to hide it in the box, with the overflow.

 

 

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[Ben A]

You are going to have issues properly supporting the tank weight. The top of the stand is going to flex with the weight of the tank. If you don't have supports directly under the edges of the tank, you will need to build a support structure similar to that of a deck, with joists and beams along the entire top and supports at the corners that allow the beams to transfer the entire load of the tank vertically.  

[Ben A]

You will also need to be careful how you attach the top ledge to the stand walls. The wood will expand and contract with the seasons, and with water spills, if you just screw it to the stand, it will crack and be ruined. Plywood is much more stable than regular wood boards, but don't look very good and require edge banding.

[YHSublime]

Hey Ben,

 

Granted, I've not seen the long term on any of these things that I have been reading about, but the Mr. Aqua is only 22 gallons. Are you saying deck style because the tank will sit off the edges of the plywood for the top, so the sides wont be absorbing most of the stress? I didn't think about that portion. 

 

As for the ledge around the top, I was going to use plywood that had been edge banded.

[YHSublime]

You are going to have issues properly supporting the tank weight. The top of the stand is going to flex with the weight of the tank. If you don't have supports directly under the edges of the tank, you will need to build a support structure similar to that of a deck, with joists and beams along the entire top and supports at the corners that allow the beams to transfer the entire load of the tank vertically.  

 

Shoot. I see what you're saying. You think even for a 22 gallon? 

 

If I could find something pre made, I could just drill through it. I really like my console that it sits on, but it's far too large to do the peninsula with. I wish I had the plans for this. Here is a picture of the inside of that last post. I would just make it less length. 

 

Here's a photo of the above stand. Also, from the perspective I'll be setting up the tank. I'd obviously just take off all that extra room with 5" around, or shorter, I'm not married to the 5" part, just figured it would leave me with an extra 2" off the back from the external overflow box. 

 

Sidenote: I would like to watch photobucket burn to the ground. 

 

 

[Origami]

I ran a quick sag-analysis on a 46" (length) x 22" (width) of 3/4" plywood supported front and back with at least 5" of long-edge support (you'll have more since this is covered by the front and back of your cabinet). The simulation assumed a 40-pound point load at the center of the beam. Deflection with this model is less than 0.01 inches. It seems like you'll be fine.

[YHSublime]

I ran a quick sag-analysis on a 46" (length) x 22" (width) of 3/4" plywood supported front and back with at least 5" of long-edge support (you'll have more since this is covered by the front and back of your cabinet). The simulation assumed a 40-pound point load at the center of the beam. Deflection with this model is less than 0.01 inches. It seems like you'll be fine.

 

I'm not sure what you mean by more than 4" because it'll be covered by the front and back of the cabinet? In terms of 5" around, this is what I was planning on raising up with plywood, but it wont jut out over.

 

I think we're on the same page, based on 46" x 22", so that's comforting! I'm confident Alan built his stand out of plywood as well, for a much larger tank, but also his tank rested on the edges fully around the stand. 

[Ben A]

I dont see any issues with the stand design that you linked, I would just put a few 2x4" frame pieces every 1/4xlength. Between the framing and the plywood over the framing, you will be fine. I just wouldn't rely solely on the plywood to distribute the load to the frame. I can make some plans for you as long as you dont need them before Monday. PM me some links to photos of stands you like and I can design for you and come up with a cut list.

[Origami]

The front and back, as well as the sides, both support the top. In other words, they both act as beams supporting the top. This holds true for the sides as well. The simulation assumes that you have beams at least 5 inches tall made of three quarter inch plywood. Any height greater than that is just gravy and as additional strength. Also assumed is that the estimated weight of your aquarium, 40 lb, is all placed on the top at one point in the center. This would be the worst case load that would cause the greatest deflection. The analysis is rather simple, but should do for this particular problem since your load is distributed further out to the periphery of the cabinet.

 

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[Origami]

By the way, I have two 15 gallon macroalgae tanks sitting on a three-quarter inch plywood surface (a sort of second tier above Mt frag tank) that is 5 ft by 3. 5 ft and supported only by two by fours on the periphery. This setup has been running successfully for the last 6 years with no noticeable sag.

 

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[Ben A]

I will say its been a long time since deforms back in college, so I am in no way disagreeing with Origami. I'm just saying I'd add a a few extra framing pieces below the stand top to better distribute the load. With a stand this small, we are talking one extra 2x4 cut into three short pieces and a few pocket holes to hide the screws. From the front you wont be able to see them anyway.

[YHSublime]

I ended up purchasing this from Target. Hunting for a table saw, assembling, painting, etc. was looking to create another project that I don't really need or have the time for. I intend to waterproof the inside area. Couple options for underneath. I think it is big enough to fit a cube sump over on one side, or I could jigsaw out part of the center brace. Either way, it's just about what I'm looking for, one step closer.

 

[YHSublime]

Well. Was assembling the stand tonight, found a dent/chip out of packaging.

 

 

I'm getting ready to return it, but not before I checked out how it might look.

 

 

 

I'm a little relieved, I'm not sure if it could handle the load, I will feel way more comfortable with my original plans.

 

 

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[Origami]

Never a big fan of particleboard. Especially in an application where it could sustain long term exposure to water (such as that which might wick underneath the tank). Your original plan was a lot more robust in my opinion.

[YHSublime]

Never a big fan of particleboard. Especially in an application where it could sustain long term exposure to water (such as that which might wick underneath the tank). Your original plan was a lot more robust in my opinion.

I was intending to waterproof with a lining underneath. For the price tag on that thing, it was a piece of junk. I guess you can't polish a turd :D

 

 

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[Ben A]

So are you planning on making your own now?

[YHSublime]

So are you planning on making your own now?

 

Yes! And now I have a clearer vision of how it's going to look. I'm picking up a Trigger Systems Ruby 36 tonight, so I know my sump dimensions are going to be 36" x 15" x 16" and the tank itself will be 36" x 12" x 12" 

 

Total water volume will be just over 50 gallons, which tickles me that the sump will be bigger than the actual display, I've always wanted to play this game though.

 

The original plans will give me an extra 10" past the sump to allow for my ATO container, and potential dosing materials as needed. I plan on running the Avast Peg Leg 180, so I'm considering adding some extra height to the stand past 30" in case I ever decide to add a swabbie, or just for ease of working below. 

[Origami]

Yes! And now I have a clearer vision of how it's going to look. I'm picking up a Trigger Systems Ruby 36 tonight, so I know my sump dimensions are going to be 36" x 15" x 16" and the tank itself will be 36" x 12" x 12" 

 

Total water volume will be just over 50 gallons, which tickles me that the sump will be bigger than the actual display, I've always wanted to play this game though.

 

The original plans will give me an extra 10" past the sump to allow for my ATO container, and potential dosing materials as needed. I plan on running the Avast Peg Leg 180, so I'm considering adding some extra height to the stand past 30" in case I ever decide to add a swabbie, or just for ease of working below. 

 

That Trigger Systems sump is sweet. Nice score.

[YHSublime]

That Trigger Systems sump is sweet. Nice score.

 

I thought so as well! I had reached out to several folks to custom order a sump. Was getting discouraged after not receiving any replies, however, everything's coming up Millhouse now! 

 

There are still some challenges ahead, from actually building the stand, to bending the pipe for a lighting bar, and then the drilling and install of an overflow. Not to mention I've then got to move the current nano while I cycle the new tank, as it will be going in the same place. 

[Ben A]

I can build the stand for you once I'm done with Epleeds electrical cabinet. I wouldn't be able to start for a week or two. I can also build a 3D model of the stand and give you an idea of material costs. I already have all the tools in my woodworking shop.

 

PM me if you want.