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RO/DI filter from Buckeye field supply


madmax7774

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I purchased the value series 100GPD RO/DI filter from Buckeye Field supply. Supposedly it has 100GPD rating. I have it plumbed correctly, and I am not getting much flow at all. Supplying it with water from a bathroom sink faucet, I am lucky to be getting 5~10 GPD. Is there some sort of a break-in period for these things? There is good pressure coming from the faucet, and there are no blockages anywhere. I am really upset at how slow this thing is. I removed all of the filters and re-seated them to be sure everything was good. Everything looks ok. I have an adapter screwed into the sink faucet which converts the line to 1/4OD plastic tubing into quick fittings on the unit. It just seems to me like the filters in this thing are not letting the water pass through at any rate approaching 100GPD. Not even close. Anyone use one of the ones from Buckeye field supply and have similar results?????

 

:angry: :angry: :angry:

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do you have a ball valve, check valve, or other type of valve on the line between the supply and the IN to filter or between the OUT and the final reservoir where you collect the water?

 

The reason I said this is because I had the same problem with a similar unit bought from airwaterice.com and Steve (a.k.a. sph2sail) came over and noticed that I had a ball valve at the output line keeping the system under pressure and this in consequence deteriorate the RO membrane minimizing the troughput. I took the ball valve out, replaced the membrane and "walla" :) , I get 3.2G per hour = to 75GPD as described in the manufacturer specifications.

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have you checked the tubings to make sure there is no blockage? sometimes tubes are cleared but there is a possibility of either a bug or dirt accumulating in the tube that will slow or stop the flow of water.

 

 

 

 

 

one more thing. call the manufaturer and/or Buckeye and ask for technical assistance. Then run them down through the diagnostics you have done and the trouble you are experiencing, they will probably give you some hints over the phone that may help with the problem. Good Luck

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ran a test through each of the tubes and fittings, looking for a blockage. Everythinh has a high rate of flow until it gets to the RO filter on top, then it just goes really sloooooow. removing the filter makes it speedy again, so it's the RO filter itself is just really slow. I am going to call buckeye and ask for tech help with the RO filter.

thanks

:angry:

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Most likely pressure, not enough of it. Really dumb question but you do have the flow restrictor in & on the correct line (center of the membrane tube), right?

 

As you using a fixed restrictor? (once again are you sure it came with one).

 

If it's an adjustable restrictor you can simply close off the waste water until you achieve the appropirate ratio/flow.

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There are two basic elements that you need to maximize your GPD; pressure and temperature. Check your manual but, most likely the GPD rating was based on a 70psi input and a temperature is approx. 65deg.

 

I put a gauge on my input line and found that the best I can get is about 60psi with no other water running in the house. As for the temperature, my system outputs more in the summer than the winter.

 

The membranes work best under pressure.

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There are two basic elements that you need to maximize your GPD; pressure and temperature. Check your manual but, most likely the GPD rating was based on a 70psi input and a temperature is approx. 65deg.

 

I put a gauge on my input line and found that the best I can get is about 60psi with no other water running in the house. As for the temperature, my system outputs more in the summer than the winter.

 

The membranes work best under pressure.

 

I second that - it's all about the pressure, and most likely about the RO membrane vs any other component in the system. I had purchased a 125 GPD system and the RO membrane required 100 PSI to operate at that output. I replaced it with a different membrane and now it gives me what I need. I also have a small holding tank, and the backpressure that that provides also helps output. I will get more water out if I let it sit, turn it on to get a gallon out, then let it sit, repeat in 10 minutes, then I would if I just left the unit on with a hose going into a big bucket.

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well, after some thought, I disconnected the RO/DI filter from the faucet where I had it and bought one of those line piercing taps from the hardware store that you use to add a water line for a refridgerator with an Ice maker. I placed the tap on the supply line of my hot water tank, where the cold water goes in. I checked the line and the residual heat from the tank that radiated up the line keeps the pipe warm at a nice 90' I placed the tap there and mounted the RO/Di filter next to the tank, and routed a line to a graduated 5 gallon container and started testing. I am actually getting about 24 gallons/day. not quite the 100gallons advertised, but good enough for my needs. I added a shut off vavle to the setup, and all is well for me. At least I don't have to lug a 5 gallon jug to the fish store anymore.

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I would not suspect a "bad" membrane necessarily... it would be nice to know what sort of pressure is on the input. As stated temperature and pressure have a great deal to do with the actual output and performance of the unit.

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Dave

I went thru all this. I had Dave (Davelin) and Steve (sph2sail) in separate occasions look at my system. I replaced every tube, every filter, every cap, and every connector on the system, and still the same output. I replaced the DI unit and no change. I call the factory, told them all I have done, and bought a new membrane.... walla !! problem fixed. I am getting so much water in one hour that I have to be careful not to spill it on the floor for the 9th time. :D

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