Achieving Better Water Quality

[sen5241b]

Overstocking is the cause of much algae.

[TrueTricia]

So Lanthanum Chloride is used IN THE TANK when the tank is full and has a live reef and fish?

 

Not going to lie....that's kind of cool that you can use it in the tank.  Scary, but cool.

[YHSublime]

Overstocking is the cause of much algae.

 

I am not overstocked, and I was having this issue with less than 8, 3" or smaller, fish in my total of about 190 gallon water volume.

[smallreef]

Also, cyano is not an algae really...it's a bacteria and frankly I think it's harder to get rid of than algae....

The few times I've had it I used aggressive means of water movement and water changes...added 3 + powerheads to the area that seemed stagnant and were catching the cyano and would do water changes a few times days in a row when I could get the stuff siphoned out...

Then I left 1 out of the 3 in that area to keep it really moving...

[YHSublime]

I will try a mix of new rock and more flow in the 180. Will be 3 mp40s and 2 wp40s. A new gyre in October.

[s2nhle]

Tagging along. Thank you for sharing.

[ridetheducati]

I will try a mix of new rock and more flow in the 180. Will be 3 mp40s and 2 wp40s. A new gyre in October.

 

You may need four more power heads for the 180. 

 

Do you expect the gyre to help improve water quality?

[howaboutme]

Do you expect the gyre to help improve water quality?

 

That's a trick question, Tony!

[ctenophore]

I've never run LaCl, but I was under the impression that it must be dosed in a reactor, and the precipitate should be trapped by very fine filter media before it can escape back into the system.  So the LaCl never actually reaches the tank inhabitants, except in immeasurably low amounts, like ozone in an ozone reactor.

 

My personal approach to achieving good water quality is focused on water flow. This includes both the overall amount of in-tank circulation, the quality of the current patterns around the obstructions in the display, as well as the turnover through the filtration system.  I have found this is a tough problem to solve on aging large systems with a high fish population.  I am currently in the process of reworking my filtration loop to increase the system turnover.  Lots of fish means very high local nutrient levels (think fish poop in eddies or areas of lower current near rocks) even when filtration loop & in-tank circulation flow is considered adequate or even high.  I think it lingers long enough for nuisance algae to trap it, even though test kits say zero.

 

I have noticed in different areas of my system (display, two large lit sumps, frag tank) very different growth rates and coloration of the exact same coral strains, much of which I attribute to differing degrees of quality water flow and filtration loop turnover.  For example, in my frag tank, which has 6x 1500gph prop pumps in 60 gal water volume (many would consider this a very high flow environment), my acro frags really haven't maintained the color and growth that they do in my lit sump.  The sump gets less light, but much higher turnover from the filtered water loop.  I think part of the difference is that the sump has a constant laminar water flow pattern that flushes everything into the return pump and into the filtration loop nearly 10x/hour, while the frag tank has a measly 1-2x/hr turnover rate and very chaotic flow that seems to be impeding coral growth & coloration.

 

Anyhow, enough rambling, but the point is that everyone should think about their water flow patterns and how efficiently it is moved through their filtration systems, whatever that may be.

[ctenophore]

Also on the topic of the gyre pump, I think it has potential if used properly.  The aquascape must be designed with a gyre/laminar pattern in mind.  The pump creates a moving sheet of water and has a nice slim form factor.  But I didn't see anything different in the current it generated compared to a row of small nanostream-class pumps.  But one thin pump certainly looks nicer than 4 round pumps and 4 cords.  The gyre pump will be useless in a fruit-stand style aquascape, but will excel when placed behind or near the bottom of an elevated rock structure that has equal space between the front & back glass, whether horizontal or vertical gyre pattern.

[YHSublime]

You may need four more power heads for the 180. 

 

Do you expect the gyre to help improve water quality?

 

I have moved all my SPS, and will only be starting the new system with softies and lps. I will be bringing my fish, clams, acans, and zoas. I will bring all my snails over. Do you think I will need more? I was thinking about switching out my 40's for two 60's on either end.

 

I don't expect the gyre to imporve my water quality (trick question, like Jack said) but I do expect it to help with flow. I plan on setting up this setup with a manifold, so I can add what I need as I grow the system. I think I will try one of those chaeto buckets that were recently shared in the DIY on WAMAS as well, and expect that to help.

 

Currently I run a 50 gallon water change every two weeks on a total water volume of about 120 gallons (tank is 150+sump) I have an Avast CS3 which is rated for up to 500 gallons. I think I will also run filter socks on the next build, as I have noticed a lot of detritus buildup in my sump.

 

I want to make sure that before I start adding SPS back into my system, I have fantastic, consistent, water quality. I will try and wait till December or Janurary before I start to really rebuild my SPS population.

 

Anyhow, enough rambling, but the point is that everyone should think about their water flow patterns and how efficiently it is moved through their filtration systems, whatever that may be.

 

I want to keep this in mind when I aquascape next. I am thinking about doing one or two structures (or 3) directly down the middle, similar to what I have now. I hope that it will allow enough space inbetween them and on the outside to actually form a gyre, even if that is not the tool I use for the job.

[ridetheducati]

Also on the topic of the gyre pump, I think it has potential if used properly.  The aquascape must be designed with a gyre/laminar pattern in mind.  The pump creates a moving sheet of water and has a nice slim form factor.  But I didn't see anything different in the current it generated compared to a row of small nanostream-class pumps.  But one thin pump certainly looks nicer than 4 round pumps and 4 cords.  The gyre pump will be useless in a fruit-stand style aquascape, but will excel when placed behind or near the bottom of an elevated rock structure that has equal space between the front & back glass, whether horizontal or vertical gyre pattern.

 

+1

 

It is refreshing to see a manufacture think outside the box and bring some innovation to the table.  I totally agree with your assessment.  An effective rock layout will determine whether the gyre develops properly and entice detritus to move.  Ideal for low profile layouts such as frag tanks; the "gyre" supplemented with conventional power heads would work in any system. 

[ridetheducati]

Do you think I will need more? I was thinking about switching out my 40's for two 60's on either end.

 

 

Two MP40s will be sufficient for a tank 72"x24".  MP60 would work as well, but you may have to dial them down to manage sand dunes.