freshfins July 31, 2013 Share July 31, 2013 I've been reading for months and still feel like I haven't scratched the surface of knowledge I need. So please let me know if I'm going wrong in my planning of my 75g mixed LPS/SPS reef. So far I have: a 75g tank with a single 2" bulkhead (huge, I know) 20g used sump Reef Octopus 110 skimmer mag 7 pump for return Koralia 1650 powerhead Koralia 550 powerhead 2 Evergrow D120 LEDs lots of dry rock from BRS RODI system Reefkeeper Lite My fish wish list: 2 jawfish Blue Stripe Neon Goby coral beauty angel 3 banggai cardinals clownfish pair? yellow tang? Carpenter's Flasher Wrasse Royal Gramma mandarin goby (in a year or 2) I think I want another overflow hole or 2 so I don't get blockages, and do a Bean Animal overflow. I'm very confused about using a DSB. I'm only considering it because I want the jawfish. I've read such conflicting opinions about DSB vs bare vs shallow. Is a DSB a lot of trouble? If I go with the DSB, what is the best sand to use? I know I'll need varying size pieces for the jawfish, but should the rest be fine or coarse? Oolite or flake or play sand? Is there a good local source? Will I regret it if I don't cook my dry rock? Is there a good (inexpensive) way to handle excess phosphates in the display if I don't cook? I have a 24g that I got about 5 months ago, which was already an established tank. That tank is now full of softies, LPS, a few SPS, and a tomato clownfish pair. Also plenty of bristleworms and a few aiptasia left, so I'm not sure I want to use any of that rock to seed my dry rock. Thanks for your help! Cristy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallreef August 1, 2013 Share August 1, 2013 I agree with adding 2 more holes for your overflow and returns.... I would nix the Yellow Tang unless its relatively small... And you do not need a Deep Sand Bed for the jawfish...I have about 2 inches and he's just fine...what I will say is that you MUST put your rock on the tank bottom...he'll just move the sand and burrow under some rock and make a home...and if its not secure....you will have a rock slide in the middle of the night and kill whoever is in the way and underneath... I would not cook the rock...but feel free to pre-soak in plain RODI for a while if your worried....shake vigorously anything inside will die :( but you shouldn't have any chemicals left over from cooking.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
londonloco August 1, 2013 Share August 1, 2013 Christy, google BRS dry rock and phosphate, from everything I've read, you will regret not cooking your dry rock. I cooked my reefcleaners dry rock for 2 months, am at -0- phosphate level now after I used Sea Klear Spa Phospate remover. I can give you a cup or two if you want to use it. I'm located in Manassas..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sachabballi reef August 1, 2013 Share August 1, 2013 Christy, google BRS dry rock and phosphate, from everything I've read, you will regret not cooking your dry rock. I cooked my reefcleaners dry rock for 2 months, am at -0- phosphate level now after I used Sea Klear Spa Phospate remover. I can give you a cup or two if you want to use it. I'm located in Manassas.....I disagree. I used BRS dry rock for all the rock in my 180 and never had a phosphate issue from it without cooking it. I cycled it in the tank Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freshfins August 1, 2013 Author Share August 1, 2013 Some people on Reef Central recommend using lanthanum chloride (Seaklear) to shorten the cooking process. Has anyone here tried it? How much do you use? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
londonloco August 1, 2013 Share August 1, 2013 I just did it. I had 50lbs of reefcleaner dry rock that I soaked in RO for a few weeks before I added the SeaKlear, phosphates were .6 at the end of a few weeks time with Hanna checker. Then I added 1oz-ish, waited a week, drained, new water, another 1 oz.-ish and waited another week. After the second dosing my phosphates were -0-. I drained and filled the tub with fresh RO water, waited a few days, readings still came out -0-. Just finished my scape, not going to soak anymore, hoping this is not a mistake. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SaltLife August 4, 2013 Share August 4, 2013 I disagree. I used BRS dry rock for all the rock in my 180 and never had a phosphate issue from it without cooking it. I cycled it in the tank Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2 "I cycled it" +1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason the filter freak August 16, 2013 Share August 16, 2013 In tank cycling is more environmentally friendly, and heck if you're waiting the recommended stock period. Its not going to make a whole lot of difference, besides more time for planning has never been a bad thing... unless you're talking about waiting three years to put up a tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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