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Contrary to popular belief, Nitrate does not have to be at zero in a healthy reef tank. Many of the LPS, mushroom, leather, and other softies can tolerate levels of N03 above 100ppm and will do fine. People around these forums tend to over do it about removal of nitrate because they are trying to achieve an ULN tank type water chemistry even though they might never have SPS.

Certain types of SPS can tolerate high levels of nitrate too.

 

If you look at your tank and all appears to be doing well and corals are inflating/deflating according to the light, you have zero visible algae issues, you do regular water changes, you don't overfeed, and coralline algae is growing, fish are happy and thriving then your tank is probably doing well and you shouldn't worry too much about test results.

 

I agree with this whole heartedly but unfortunately I have been on the anal side of things, like a lot of people. Do as I say, not as I do. :)

 

All good advice here.

 

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I just purchased some zoas and they seem to be doing great in the 5.5 I bought a condy and it didn't do good in the 20 I've notice coralline growing on the glass small spheres here and there but I got a lot of red slime due to me running my lights to long. I'll start shopping for a ro/di and skimmer

 

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Really, nitrates can be problematic for any animal, just depends on tolerances. Nitrate can inhibit the consumption of calcium for some animals (phosphates, too) and that is one of the main reasons to avoid high nitrates.

As above: feed waaaay less. Try once every other day for a while. Buy an RODI: not too $$$ and pretty easy to figure out.

Where did you get your liverock, and did you cure it before adding it to the tank, which would include testing the water it was in ?

I got it from a tank that was up & running for a long time and I didn't think to test it

 

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

 

 

Contrary to popular belief, Nitrate does not have to be at zero in a healthy reef tank. Many of the LPS, mushroom, leather, and other softies can tolerate levels of N03 above 100ppm and will do fine. People around these forums tend to over do it about removal of nitrate because they are trying to achieve an ULN tank type water chemistry even though they might never have SPS.

Certain types of SPS can tolerate high levels of nitrate too.

 

If you look at your tank and all appears to be doing well and corals are inflating/deflating according to the light, you have zero visible algae issues, you do regular water changes, you don't overfeed, and coralline algae is growing, fish are happy and thriving then your tank is probably doing well and you shouldn't worry too much about test results.

 

Water testing is great if you are going to test and record the results on a weekly basis for the life of your tank. If you take random tests here and there, it's hard to pinpoint a problem based upon a water test.

 

Another easy test for dissolved organics (excess food,algae, waste products) in the water- look through the tank at a window and see if there's a noticeable color change in the water. If it's yellow, green, or brown, it's time for a water change and time to modify your techniques. Clear water is the desired color. Put water in a white bucket next to the freshly mixed saltwatwer for a good comparison.

 

A protein skimmer is almost a mandatory item to keep SW.

 

This is solid advice.

 

Any negative effects of nitrates and phosphates (besides algae growth) are long term. So there is no need to panic.

 

Take your time, be consistent in your husbandry, and your levels will fall. I agree with Rob -- the dissolved organics is of much more concern. Nitrates and phosphates are a symptom of high DOCs. Skimmers and water changes will keep the DOC low and thus the nutrients low.

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