John March 26, 2013 Share March 26, 2013 I am confused by the timeline of events...i.e. when refugium was offlined, WC before of after you noticed ill effects, when acan colonies were lost, when colors started bleaching, etc...If you can start over you may be able to identify something that happened. I doubt changing the heater was the cause, unless your tank is running hot...or you purchased a used heater that was in a tank with copper... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jan March 26, 2013 Share March 26, 2013 1.023 is a tad low for SPS. The recommended SG is 1.025-1.026. Salinity is 1.023 I did get a new heater like two weeks ago, and its working fine, jow can I tell if that has change anything? I have started to feed krill like two weeks and added a like 3 frags last week and thats about it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tracy G March 26, 2013 Share March 26, 2013 1.023 is a tad low for SPS. The recommended SG is 1.025-1.026.Just bring it up slowly. The way I adjust is my water change water I set to 1.026 and keep going that way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wade March 26, 2013 Share March 26, 2013 As others mentioned, start using a high grade carbon. If you live near any farm fields, they have been spraying pre-emergent herbicides already. I keep carbon running constantly in my tanks because of it. Your phosphate is high enough to cause sps to bleach if it is accurate. Getting that down asap is a good idea as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DBL March 26, 2013 Author Share March 26, 2013 Just bring it up slowly. The way I adjust is my water change water I set to 1.026 and keep going that way. I will bring it up with the next couple water changes. I do run GFO all the time but dont seem to help much. I dont leave close to any fields. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DBL March 27, 2013 Author Share March 27, 2013 I did a 35 gallon water change this morning. I will empty my refugium out tonight and look if anything has fallen in. Salinity up to 1.024 now. Frogspawns still not looking good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jan March 27, 2013 Share March 27, 2013 (edited) Have you checked your RO/DI water? Here in FFX county we have high levels of chloramine in the water. This mixture of chlroine and ammonia does not dissipate like regular chlorine does. It binds. When the weather is bad the water treatment plants tend to add more chloramine to the water. I needed carbon to filter it out of my RO/DI water. I purchased a refillable cartridge and carbon in bulk from AWI for my RO/DI. Prior to the carbon my ammonia levels were reading.25 for filtered water. High TDS can cause issues with phosphates and nitrates leading to issues with lage. What is your TDS reading? Edited March 27, 2013 by Jans Natural Reef Foods Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DBL March 27, 2013 Author Share March 27, 2013 I have not check my RO/DI water, i will report back with the readings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STEVE March 27, 2013 Share March 27, 2013 Rich, How old is your GFO? Are you running it thru a reactor like a Two LIttle Fishies, or are you putting it in a mesh bag in the sump? Give me a call. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DBL March 27, 2013 Author Share March 27, 2013 Have you checked your RO/DI water? Here in FFX county we have high levels of chloramine in the water. This mixture of chlroine and ammonia does not dissipate like regular chlorine does. It binds. When the weather is bad the water treatment plants tend to add more chloramine to the water. I needed carbon to filter it out of my RO/DI water. I purchased a refillable cartridge and carbon in bulk from AWI for my RO/DI. Prior to the carbon my ammonia levels were reading.25 for filtered water. High TDS can cause issues with phosphates and nitrates leading to issues with lage. What is your TDS reading? Do you place the carbon filter before your RO/DI unit or after the water is filter through the unit? Can you pm me more info of the refiilable cartridge you use or snap a pic of it please? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DBL March 27, 2013 Author Share March 27, 2013 Rich, How old is your GFO? Are you running it thru a reactor like a Two LIttle Fishies, or are you putting it in a mesh bag in the sump? Give me a call. Steve I change my GFO every month and I use two little fishier reactor to do so. I will call you tomorrow buddy, Im only going to be home for a short time before I head out again so I wont have to much time to mess with the tank tonight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DBL March 27, 2013 Author Share March 27, 2013 If u suspect metal, get a poly filter. Not sure what color it will change if there is metal in the water I place a poly filter in the sump this morning and its turning yellow meaning that there is ammonia in the tank. Can someone tell me what is a good way to bring it down please? Or if just the poly filter is enough? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STEVE March 27, 2013 Share March 27, 2013 The order of the filters should: from the water source, sediment filter, carbon filter, carbon filter, RO membrane then to the DI resin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STEVE March 27, 2013 Share March 27, 2013 I place a poly filter in the sump this morning and its turning yellow meaning that there is ammonia in the tank. Can someone tell me what is a good way to bring it down please? Or if just the poly filter is enough? First, I would find the source of where the Ammonia is coming from then do a big waterchange. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STEVE March 27, 2013 Share March 27, 2013 ................thats if the Ammonia is not coming from your Ro unit! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jan March 27, 2013 Share March 27, 2013 What Steve said - The order of the filters should: from the water source, sediment filter, carbon filter, carbon filter, RO membrane then to the DI resin. Do you place the carbon filter before your RO/DI unit or after the water is filter through the unit? Can you pm me more info of the refiilable cartridge you use or snap a pic of it please? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jan March 27, 2013 Share March 27, 2013 Please check your ammonia levels, both in your DT and your RO/DI water, before you do anything else. If you need to do a water changes make sure to empty a significant amount of water before you add water back in to your tank. Make sure you have enough water made to do a large water change. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
howaboutme March 28, 2013 Share March 28, 2013 I've done some research on chloramines in regards to our RODI units as this was a discussion in an earlier thread a month or so ago. If you have either the. 5 or 1 micron membranes you don't need a separate filter for chloramines. So if you have any of the "value" RODI units that are 5 microns then it will be helpful to have the extra filter step. Hope this helps. Sent from my SCH-I405 using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jan March 28, 2013 Share March 28, 2013 I spoke with AWI and all I had to do was replace one of the micron filters with a carbon filter. they agreed that the 1 and 5 micron don;t work as well as the carbon with filtering higher levels of chloramines. I've done some research on chloramines in regards to our RODI units as this was a discussion in an earlier thread a month or so ago. If you have either the. 5 or 1 micron membranes you don't need a separate filter for chloramines. So if you have any of the "value" RODI units that are 5 microns then it will be helpful to have the extra filter step. Hope this helps. Sent from my SCH-I405 using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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