Folta September 12, 2005 September 12, 2005 Ok, So I'm back to looking at getting an iron stand and I have a question for you guys. The sump that I now have is 24" x 40" footprint. I'd like to fit it in the stand for the 180. A 180 gallon tank is also 24" front to back, so I'm assuming the stand will be that same width. Does anyone know if I can fit the sump under the stand? or will it basically be just a hair too wide? Thanks, Tim
flowerseller September 12, 2005 September 12, 2005 Meerly curious, why an iron stand? You can make a very nice 2x4 stand and cover it in your choice of material. As for the sump, if you place the stand several inches from the wall and there is no center support, it may hang out the back a tad without being a problem. Sounds like it's starting to come together?
Folta September 12, 2005 Author September 12, 2005 Chip, well I was thinking iron since they aren't too expensive ($160), will support the weight, would be level, and I'm not all that great at building things out of wood. I asked about the stand when I called, and the person said she thinks it has 6 supports - 3 in the front, and 3 in the back. The sump I have is 40" long, so I don't think it would quite fit.
HowardofNOVA September 12, 2005 September 12, 2005 180g tank on a metal stand?? 24"x 40" seems awful small, our you sure it's not 50" or 60" wide?? Being a former certified welder, that scares me. If your talking about some special made "DECORATIVE" type made of cast material, remember 180 x 9-10# is alot of weight. AND the thing about metal is that though it's direct compaction support is good, will take nothing to collapse it from the side, aka, leaning on it for working in top, etc. Like Chip, I'd recommend either doing wood frame work OR if your making out of WELDED SUPPORT type material like Steel 2" angle irons or 1 1/2"-2" Square stock material that would be good, but add small triangle shape braces welded to corners as add braces. Howard
Folta September 12, 2005 Author September 12, 2005 Hey Howard, I was under the impression that an iron stand would work well, but it sounds as though I thought wrong from what you were saying. 24" is the front to back dimension. The footprint of the tank is 72" x 24" (also 24" high). The iron stand I had in mind would be one bought from an aquarium store, I called around to a few and congressional in rockville says they can order them. I was under the impression that it would be capable of holding that weight. I've been giving more consideration to building my own stand, to guarantee that I can fit the sump underneath, but I'm at a loss of how to design it. I guess I'm worried that I won't build it strong enough and it will collapse on me, which of course would be very bad. Currently I had in mind making 2 'frameworks' of 2x4's, each being 72" x 30". I would put the display to the very front of the stand, while the sump underneath could be centered on the framework. Oh, and I would put plywood over the frame, both on the 'shelf' in the stand and on the top. Not sure what thickness of that I should use. I also have no idea yet about how to make legs for it. I'm all ears of course, and if I can feel confident enough about building my own stand, I'll do it. Oh, and the sump was the 24" x 40" (x 18" h), which puts it at 75 gallons when full. It was the sump Leishman was selling shortly ago
flowerseller September 12, 2005 September 12, 2005 Wood offers the benifit of screwing attachemnts in place that we somehow think we need while giving plenty of fexibility in design. Made correctly, they're strong as all get out. PM following
Folta September 12, 2005 Author September 12, 2005 Ok, to reuse Leishmans photo one more time: Thats the exact sump I have, and kinda how I want it sitting under the stand. The sump is drilled on that right side, so I would have the external pump to the right there. I also want to make sure I have clearance to get the skimmer collection cup out (was thinking of making the stand 36" high) As far as 'skinning' the front and sides, I"m pretty hooked on the idea of making face plates with magnets, so that I can completely remove them if necessary. That I will do after everything is setup, though, as it won't have any bearing on structure.
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now