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Also have this on my dedicated tank thread area.

 

Alright so I bought the resirc upgrade for the avast CS-1 skimmer. I want to make the skimmer external though. So any help would be great. esp if anyone else has this skimmer you'll have better insight hopefully.

Stock in these first two pics

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Heres what it looks like stock underneath the base plate, it doesn't fit well or at all under my stand.

315045_579970778848_209700230_32110181_549579790_n.jpg

With thin sched 40 I can re-route the output behind a support leg which reduces the foot print and allows it to fit in a good place under the stand,

Next the output riser was too short, so I again sched 40 an make the riser higher

379789_579970818768_209700230_32110183_314525709_n.jpg

Before I glue everything I'm going to use grey sched 40 instead of white.

This is the space where it needs to fit... TINY!

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But with a reduced foot print, it fits! Wooo

 

Now avast cs-1 owners how do I make it water proof? What I can see being the issues is the black input barb which is a not tapped(threaded) hole, (can I get a tap that big, should I glue it?) same with the two long black threaded rods that hold the bubble concentrating chamber on, they're not threaded though the base plate. How can I make them water proof. I've already figured out how to make the flange water proof.

 

Look it fits! Woo

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Since it is recirculating, there is no issue with backpressure- just slow down the flow from the feed pump.

I only plan on putting 50-100gph tops though the skimmer.

The hole for the input is 7/10 of an inch, the threaded portion of the barb is 6.5/10 of an inch.

Perfect, 1/2-14 npt tap needs a .703 hole.

Perfect, 1/2-14 npt tap needs a .703 hole.

Now I just need to get it tapped.

 

Any one have any ideas for water proofing the non tapped holes the long black threaded rods come though? I was thinking maybe just tap them anyhow and use a ton of teflon tape?

Other than that I figure I can glue my effluent pipe and joints in place, and have no other issues. Can anyone point out any other flaws in my plan(s)?

What do you think about using sealing washers (or perhaps o rings) for water proofing the non-threaded holes?

They are pretty self explanatory, basically they are made of a soft rubber or neoprene and create a seal between the flat surface of whatever is being fastened and the bottom face of the bolt.

 

I thought about it because I happened to see some at HD last week when looking for something else... Although the ones I saw were galvonized steel with a neoprene insert. You might try there... I didn't look further when I saw them since I wasn't looking for them. They just caught my attention because the steel rubber interface seemed slightly odd to me.

 

You could also order some from grainger, although you will likely end up with more than you need http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/Sealing-Washer-4MZT2?Pid=search.

I'd be worried to put anything galvanized into my tank, how ever the washers pique my interest but like you said $20 for 50 of em, and I only need two

I worry about that too... and I wouldn't use the galvonized/rubber ones for your purpose, only used that as what I saw. Their website shows that they have just neoprene washers, not sure what size you would need, but they might have something that would work for you http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Search?keyword=sealing+washer&selectedCatgry=SEARCH+ALL&langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053&Ntpc=1&Ntpr=1#/?c=1&rpp=96

 

 

I wonder if there is anywhere that sells larger nylon rods and nuts, I can just get a larger rod and nut and then tap the hole and use teflon I think I'd be golden.

Found this

http://www.mcmaster.com/#nylon-6/6-threaded-rods/=f29blw

 

I just need to figure out what rod to get, the site confuses the H-E-double hockey sticks out of me, but I'll tap larger holes, use this and have everything straightened out I think :laugh:

Wish me luck, futher input greatly appreciated

Found this

http://www.mcmaster.com/#nylon-6/6-threaded-rods/=f29blw

 

I just need to figure out what rod to get, the site confuses the H-E-double hockey sticks out of me, but I'll tap larger holes, use this and have everything straightened out I think :laugh:

Wish me luck, futher input greatly appreciated

Bought 2 feet of threaded 5/16" in black rod today and 100 friggen nuts (smallest amount possible) :(. Will share results of tapping larger holes and using Teflon tape to seal.

 

For those wondering about sealing the base plate, I will run a bead of clear silicone around the base flange then crank it down with the screws which will also be Teflon-ed. Silicone is not a good bonding agent for acrylic but it is a good water proofing agent. The great thing from experience once I take the screws back out of the plate, with a light bit of prying the seal between the flanges will break and I will be able to easily peal away and start over with a new bead of silicone if I ever have a need to pull the skimmer apart, but as evidence by the pics with my hand in the skimmer even my huge meaty paws fit all the way to the bottom so I can't see needing to pull the skimmer apart.

Addressing a question from nano reef

 

How are you using the CS1 skimmer outside of the sump?

I asked avast marine about that exact thing and was told that the CS1 skimmer was NOT designed or meant to be run externally like that "thats how I wanted to run it" and was told that the CS1 doesnt have the "seals" or something to be run externally but the big skimmer that is like 700 bucks was designed to be run externally

 

No the skimmer is not "meant to be run externally" but a diy nut like me can make it run externally with minimal effort I believe.

 

Dear Avast why you no sponsor Nano-reef? :blink:

Got my base plate tapped today for the water input barb, also got my threaded rod from MacMasterCarr, quick shipping!

ALSO GOT MY SWABBIE, yaaaaarrr! :clap:

Center finder

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Tapping of the base plate

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All tapped

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All I need now is some sched 40 grey pvc, do some gluing, and tap larger hold for my bubble chamber rods and call it a day, she'll nearly be external! :clap:

Got the CS-1 tapped for the 5/16th's rod, no I just need to find a threadded 90 for the input, and some sched 40 grey PVC for the riser pipe, and I'll be all set for this bad boy to run externally

(edited)

Sooo weeee! 4 holes tapped and 5/16 now replaces the 1/4 stock. The base plate is now threaded and ready for a good seal. As soon as I get grey for the riser pipe, glue and silicone everything together I'll start wet testing.

Difference in size

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Sched 40 feed for the riser pipe, now I just need the riser pipe to be grey.

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Edited by jason the filter freak

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