Calcium reactor, kalk reactor?

[LanglandJoshua]

I have a 75 gallon tank that I am setting up as a reef tank, but I want to know what reactors I should have?

 

I am planning on a Kalk reactor, but what is the difference between that and a calcium reactor?

 

Do I need any other reactors?

 

Where would you guys suggest that I buy them.

 

I would be buying a large skimmer at the same time, so i would love to get a bulk discount.

 

Also, what are your opinions on Ozone reactors and UV sterilizer

 

Thanks all

Edited February 8, 2011 by LanglandJoshua

[Origami]

Joshua, kalk stirrers and calcium reactors both act to supplement balanced amounts of calcium and alkalinity, though by different methods. Kalk powder is actually calcium hydroxide - Ca(OH)2. It is soluble in small amounts in fresh water, dissociating into a highly alkaline solution of calcium and hydroxide ions. The hydroxide (OH-) ions combine with aqueous carbon dioxide to principally form bicarbonate (HCO3-). Calcium reactors use carbon dioxide to lower the pH in the reactor vessel to dissolve (what is effectively) crushed coral or coral skeletons. The resulting effluent is thus composed of calcium, bicarbonates, and (to a lesser extend) magnesium ions.

 

Because kalkwasser is dissolved in fresh water (you can't use your tank water to dissolve it because it will precipitate out certain critical ions that you want to keep), and because it's only slightly soluble, you are fundamentally limited in how much you can dose into a tank by evaporation. Dosing more will reduce your tank's salinity. It's for this reason that, for more mature tanks with high calcium and alkalinity consumption, kalk reactors can fall short of meeting demand. It does have several very good qualities about it, though. It's balanced and it's relatively cheap. It also keeps your tank pH high and can precipitate out phosphates and metals. There are several ways to dose kalkwasser. One is to use a stirrer. This is probably the more expensive option, but a lot of us use it. Another way is to premix it and dose it manually. And finally, another way is to mix it with your topoff water and let your topoff pump take care of dosing it.

 

On the other hand, calcium reactors are not practically limited in how much they can dose. However, because the effluent of a calcium reactor is acidic, it can lower the pH of your tank. As a solution, though, the cost of entry is high. When dialed in, though, a calcium reactor can take good care of your calcium and alkalinity needs for 3-6 months (plus) at a time. They are more complicated, too.

 

Another option is to use two-part to dose calcium and alkalinity. Many people combine this with dosing pumps in order to automate the dosing regimen. Done right, this can be as effective as a calcium reactor, but at a lower cost. However, over the long run, long term use of two-part can affect the ionic balance of your water. This can be slowed considerably by maintaining good water change habits.

 

Keep in mind, Joshua, that these means of supplementation are used to replace what your corals are consuming to build their skeletons. If you don't have the consumption, you don't have a reason to supplement. At the very least, water changes can meet the needs of a young tank. After you find that you cannot maintain your alkalinity levels above 7 dKH with water changes alone, then consider supplementing to make up the difference.

[LanglandJoshua]

I am about to do some tests. But I have about 20 some frags in my tank, and I would like them to be able to grow as best as possible. I know it will take weeks and months, but I want the tank healthy and to not have a lack of nutrients.

 

Even if my levels are good now, would it be a good idea for me to get a kalk and calcium reactor?

 

I will be making up drawings for my custom stand within the next month. It will include a large sump(30-50 gallons), refugium(30-40 gallons), and all my filtration. Since my ultimate goal is breeding I want alot of refugium space, and I need more live rock, so the sump is a must have. I am thinking since my total gallons will be at the max 175 without piping, I would want a 200 gallon skimmer. I want to eventually get rid of the canisters all together.

 

So basically I have to plan for a mature tank. I think the best question here is what equipment would you suggest I get?

Edited February 8, 2011 by LanglandJoshua

[LanglandJoshua]

Ok, here are my results. I know I need some Cheato algae to get rid of my nitrites, and I will replace my phosban tomorrow. But I have no explenation for the Calcium and Carbonate. I have been told high phosphates can lead to incorrect testing for the calcium and carbonate.

 

PH- 8.4

Ammonia- 0

Nitrite-.25

Nitrate- 0

Temp.- 78.5

Salinity- 1.0265 last digit is an approximation

Calcium took 52 drops, which is about of 1040 ppm

Carbonate took 16 drops, which is about 16 dKH or 280ppm

 

Something seems off with the last two, as for the cheato algae I have to get a refugium first...

 

But I did dose with B-ionic a few days ago. I put 50 ml of each part(1 and 2).

 

So I guess, Im just confused as to how the calcium and kalk reactors would help. Or if they would at all, and how to get the levels into normal ranges. Thanks for any advice.

Edited February 8, 2011 by LanglandJoshua

[Origami]

Using calcium supplementation when there's no consumption does not increase consumption. A lack of it can inhibit growth, however.

 

Your calcium and alkalinity levels are off the chart. They should be around 420 and 8 dKH respectively (or thereabouts). I can't tell you why your numbers are so wrong. Are you using tap water to mix up your salt? This can explain some of the high numbers. What kind of salt are you using? You definitely do not need supplementation at this time.

 

Get an LFS to check your water parameters for you and report back.

 

Please mix up some new salt water and test it. Report those numbers back, too.

 

If you're using RO/DI and a salt mix, then you probably need to consider several water changes to bring your levels back into line if your change water is in better shape.

 

You can plan for the future. That doesn't mean that you start adding stuff that you don't need yet. Premature action can lead to early problems and failure. This hobby will teach you patience, if nothing else.

[Guest thefishman65]

If you go with a a kalk stirrer check out the Two Little Fishies KW300. I just got one and I am impressed, but I have never had one before. They run about $65 and use the feed pump to stir the powder.

[LanglandJoshua]

I have had to get some tap water on occasion. I am working on getting an RO unit. But as of yet I dont have one. I have been using the Marine Scenes water for the past month, I only added tap for 5 gallons once. Just to avoid burning out motors when i ran out of RO water. I am today going to get some supplies for a stand, I am planning on the refugium being about 50 gallons. So that should dilude it.

 

Sadly I cant remember the salt I use, I got it at Centerville Aquarium its in a small box. But I always dump it in a 5 gallon bucket and toss it.

 

Is it possible that my levels are being read incorrectly by my test kit? As I said before I had been told that Phosphates can mess up Calcium and Alkalinity tests.

 

 

[Origami]

I'm unaware of how phosphate would interfere with either your calcium or alkalinity tests. High phosphate and low pH would definitely interfere with calcium carbonate (coral skeleton) formation, though.

 

Please have your water tested by an independent source before assuming that your test kit's readings are right. I don't believe that your water can support that level of supersaturation without significant abiotic precipitation (which would lower these numbers).

 

You may find this article worth reading:

 

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-06/rhf/index.php

 

By any chance, is your water clouded with a white snow that might be calcium carbonate solid in suspension? If so, your test may be affected by this. Try filtering your water through a couple of coffee filters to remove suspended solids before testing it again.

[Incredible Corals]

I'm in the middle of a write-up on R2R and recording data with my experience using the TLF Reactor. Feel free to check it out.

 

http://www.reef2reef.com/forums/reef-chemistry-forum/54889-kalk-all-s-cracked-up.html

Edited February 8, 2011 by forrealb50

[Origami]

^^Nice thread you have going there. Is that a fixed sprinkler head at the end of the tube or a rotating one? It looks similar to the type used on my drip-irrigation system in my garden. If it's the same, this would make for a very easy DIY reactor.

 

Is the top of the reactor open or closed? It looks like the feed tube enters from the body of the reactor rather than through a lid, and that it remains in place during refilling. If so, do you find it to be an inconvenient obstruction when refilling the reactor?

 

Sorry for the hijack but inquiring minds want to know.

[LanglandJoshua]

^^Nice thread you have going there. Is that a fixed sprinkler head at the end of the tube or a rotating one? It looks similar to the type used on my drip-irrigation system in my garden. If it's the same, this would make for a very easy DIY reactor.

 

Is the top of the reactor open or closed? It looks like the feed tube enters from the body of the reactor rather than through a lid, and that it remains in place during refilling. If so, do you find it to be an inconvenient obstruction when refilling the reactor?

 

Sorry for the hijack but inquiring minds want to know.

Haha, hijack away. I'm curious too. I'm about to go to home depot to get supplies for my stand we are building today. My only hitch is I made it so I have room for six 4-5 gallon refugiums. I know how I am putting water in, but not out yet. I really want to make an overflow that would drain to a hole in the tank. But were not sure how to make a 1/2 inch hole in 1/4th inch tempered glass...so the refugiums won't be usable for a few days...this is why I was testing and asking about reactors. At this point I'm just going to leave open space for them in the stand.

Edited February 8, 2011 by LanglandJoshua

[Incredible Corals]

^^Nice thread you have going there. Is that a fixed sprinkler head at the end of the tube or a rotating one? It looks similar to the type used on my drip-irrigation system in my garden. If it's the same, this would make for a very easy DIY reactor.

 

Is the top of the reactor open or closed? It looks like the feed tube enters from the body of the reactor rather than through a lid, and that it remains in place during refilling. If so, do you find it to be an inconvenient obstruction when refilling the reactor?

 

Sorry for the hijack but inquiring minds want to know.

 

The sprinkler head rotates at the end. The top of the reactor is closed. The feed tube enters into the of the body and runs to the bottom of the reactor. When the reactor fills up to the top the outlet is on the body and the drips into the sump. You can actually run it with the lid off and nothing spills out.

 

With the price of the reactor it

[Origami]

The sprinkler head rotates at the end. The top of the reactor is closed. The feed tube enters into the of the body and runs to the bottom of the reactor. When the reactor fills up to the top the outlet is on the body and the drips into the sump. You can actually run it with the lid off and nothing spills out.

 

With the price of the reactor it