BowieReefer84 October 12, 2010 Share October 12, 2010 I have been actively searching for the "best deal" I can find on LED's for my biocube 29gal. Going back and forth with making the leap. My latest revelation is the rapid LED kit. Found here http://www.rapidled.com/servlet/the-71/20-Ultra-Premium-LED/Detail These drivers can also handle 2 additional LED's each. So throw in two more blues, and two more whites. The total cost would be 275 plus 14.59 for the whites and 11.50 for the blues. This would be a grand total of $301.09 (they do not charge shipping on orders over 229). My opinion is 24 led's would be plenty for my tank, and the XP-G R5's are the best out right now. This kit would be $100 less than the nanocustoms kit with 30 LED's, but the nanocustoms does not even include the XP-G R5's, and their heatsink is NOT drilled. This kit is much easier should you need to replace an LED. I don't think I am going to find a better deal at this point in time. Also, I emailed rapid LED twice today and their responses came in less than an hour both times (the first was like 20minutes). HERE IS THE EMAIL THREAD I HAD...(it is somewhat confusing that both our names are Mike) """"Hello, I have a 29 gallon biocube. I see you offer the "20 ultra premium LED nano retro kit" for $275. In your opinion is this enough light output to keep sps, and will it be enough LED's to avoid spotlighting in a tank of this size? My total budget is $350-$400, so if there is a better option of what you offer please let me know. Do you offer any retro kits with 30 LED's perhaps? How many LED's will fit on your board? THANK YOU! Mike Hi Mike, Thanks for the email. I do think that the 20 kit is enough to keep SPS, I've seen this kit on the BC29 before and it's a lot of light. The kit doesn't come with any lenses so there won't be any spotlighting, though there will be a halo of light spilling through the tank onto the floor around the tank stand (or whatever apparatus you have the tank on). The heatsink is pre-drilled for 24 LEDs so you can add 4 more LEDs to this kit if you'd like. You won't need any other drivers to do so so that's always a cost effective option. Also, FYI the standard kit with 10 XP-G's and 10 Royal Blue XR-E's will give you about a 12K look, if you want it a bit more blue then you can change mix the color ratio however you'd like. Overall, I think this is your best bet for the Biocube 29 since it screws directly into the hood and thus is going to look very clean. Let me know if you have any other questions. Thanks, Mike Thank you for the extremely fast response. RAPID LED is a good name for your business. If I order the 20 kit, and 4 additional LED's (2blue and 2 white) will you do the soldering of the kit for an additional fee? I really want to minimize the work I do, as I am not familiar with soldering. Could you provide the price for what this would be? If this is out of the relm of your business let me know, and I will try to find someone locally to help me. I like the 50/50 split to get the 12k look. I am not a fan of everyone making their tanks BLUE like smurfs... Thank you, Mike Hey Mike, We used to do soldering for our customers but have stopped doing that recently because it was simply taking up too much of our time and we no longer offer that service. Sorry about that, let me know if you can't find anyone local and I'll see if I can get anyone around here to help out. Thanks, Mike P.S. Agreed about the blue colors, but that's pretty much all you see at shows nowadays (especially from the frag farms)."""" I may move forward with this kit over the next month. If anyone is interested in ordering together, and soldering for me : ) Let me know. I can throw in a few bucks or supply the food or something. I like the $100 savings over the nanotuners, and the flexability this kit provides. Any thoughts? I know I am not the only one playing this song in their head... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iangibby October 13, 2010 Share October 13, 2010 I have a nice snap on butane soldering iron you could use or I can solder it for you when your ready. I pass Bowie on my way home from DC to Calvert County. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest thefishman65 October 13, 2010 Share October 13, 2010 What is you goal. Simplicity or cost? I think you could search around and find the same things cheaper, but would mean more work. I don't think you cound find an upgrade that needs so little work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BowieReefer84 October 13, 2010 Author Share October 13, 2010 What is you goal. Simplicity or cost? I think you could search around and find the same things cheaper, but would mean more work. I don't think you cound find an upgrade that needs so little work. Simplicity is first then cost. Lets say 60/40 split . . .haha. I really like the drilled heatsink with the places for led's and that it lines up with the biocube hood holes. The nanotuners heatsink is $50, and is not drilled for the led's.... That alone makes me like this kit. Are you aware of any other heatsinks that are a direct fit like the one in this kit? I thought the price was pretty decent? How much less would you think it would be buying parts/pieces seperately about? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dakotasreef October 13, 2010 Share October 13, 2010 I ordered my diy kit from them and I am going to be ordering from them very soon again. Great customer service. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BowieReefer84 October 13, 2010 Author Share October 13, 2010 I ordered my diy kit from them and I am going to be ordering from them very soon again. Great customer service. I asked them about doing a group buy. I am waiting to hear back... All the reviews I have seen are A+, which means a lot to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ctenophore October 13, 2010 Share October 13, 2010 I met these guys at MACNA and they seemed to know their stuff and the kit looked good. I would buy it if I were in the market for LEDs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trockafella October 13, 2010 Share October 13, 2010 I ordered from rapid as well, I was very pleased with everything, especially there customer service. I would most certainly order from them again. I think 24 leds would be plenty for your tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thewire October 13, 2010 Share October 13, 2010 Lol...still trying to decide :P I ordered from rapidled before. They shipped pretty fast and their stuffs is basically same as N-T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BowieReefer84 October 13, 2010 Author Share October 13, 2010 Ok, so here is what they told me on group discounts . . . "Hi Mike, Yes, we do group discounts but it depends on which items and for what groups (ie. from a large forum we'd expect more than we would from a local reef club). Typically we ask for orders of at least $2,000, and the discount is roughly 10% (again depending on the item and volume it could be slightly more or less). Let me know what I can do to help you put together a group buy and I'll be glad to do it. Thanks, Mike" I do not think we are going to get anywhere near this number, but thought I would throw it out there... This would be 8 of the retro kits, or a LOT of individual items basically. Maybe someone on here wants to spend a lot, but I do not see it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest thefishman65 October 13, 2010 Share October 13, 2010 I think LEDs should run 6-7 dollars so 24 would run about $144-$168. $64 for the Driver IIRC, but they would both be dimmable at that price. So it may not save a lot. And you are right that drilling can be a pain. I guess it might save $24-$75 depending on what you have lying around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BowieReefer84 October 13, 2010 Author Share October 13, 2010 I think LEDs should run 6-7 dollars so 24 would run about $144-$168. $64 for the Driver IIRC, but they would both be dimmable at that price. So it may not save a lot. And you are right that drilling can be a pain. I guess it might save $24-$75 depending on what you have lying around. Did you take into account the two new fans, and the heatsink in your calculation? This was my reasoning. 12 blues = $70, 12 whites = $85, Fans with controller = $40, Drivers = $42. This adds up to $237. So basically this kit is $300, and that means the drilled heatsink is costing about $60 bucks give or take. I am ok with that, because like I said drilling is a pain. i would be willing to pay the extra $50+/- to avoid this task alone. All in all the prices they have seem good, and the customer service seems to have a great rep. I don't mind a company having some profit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest thefishman65 October 13, 2010 Share October 13, 2010 No I figured that you could get a couple off of ebay. I am not sure the speed control is needed, but might be nice feature. The last time I checked ETG had XR-E royal blue for $5 (10+) and XP-G for $6.50 (10+), but prices may have changed. $60 for a drilled heat sink is probably not bad. I don't really know since I have a bunch of scrap I have been using. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BowieReefer84 October 13, 2010 Author Share October 13, 2010 Here is a good build on a 29Gal biocube with the Rapid LED Retro kit. http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=241228 Looks pretty easy, and the fit looks great.... Waiting to get paid to pull this trigger... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thewire October 14, 2010 Share October 14, 2010 Ya..i m too waiting to get something from rapidled too myself...a heatsink and some leds...maybe a driver Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BowieReefer84 October 14, 2010 Author Share October 14, 2010 (edited) Ya..i m too waiting to get something from rapidled too myself...a heatsink and some leds...maybe a driver Do you know how to solder? Maybe we can work something out if so.... They have the powerful meanwells that can drive up to 12 (thats what they told me) XP-G blah blah blah LED's. It's the LPC-60-1050. It is not dimmable, but I am not worried about dimming. I will use mesh or what not to acclimate, and once acclimated I want the full PAR they are able to provide. Edited October 14, 2010 by BowieReefer84 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dakotasreef October 14, 2010 Share October 14, 2010 The dimable might not be a horrible idea in a shallow tank. I have the 24 royal blues on my 120 and it is as bright as about 4 ati blue plus(48") in a powermodule. These things are intense, and I do not use optics. I tried to start a group buy on another forum and was not able to reach the minimum. I would be down for another 24 retro and a 12 retro if you do order. I am hoping to order in the next two weeks, so let me know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BowieReefer84 October 14, 2010 Author Share October 14, 2010 (edited) The dimable might not be a horrible idea in a shallow tank. I have the 24 royal blues on my 120 and it is as bright as about 4 ati blue plus(48") in a powermodule. These things are intense, and I do not use optics. I tried to start a group buy on another forum and was not able to reach the minimum. I would be down for another 24 retro and a 12 retro if you do order. I am hoping to order in the next two weeks, so let me know. I'll start a group buy just to see, and put a link in here . . .What discount were they going to give you on the retro's? EDIT - I do not have the credit to be able to pay the $2,000 on my card for a discount . . . DUH! If you start one, I'll be down to buy the kit. sorry Edited October 14, 2010 by BowieReefer84 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thewire October 15, 2010 Share October 15, 2010 Do you know how to solder? Maybe we can work something out if so.... They have the powerful meanwells that can drive up to 12 (thats what they told me) XP-G blah blah blah LED's. It's the LPC-60-1050. It is not dimmable, but I am not worried about dimming. I will use mesh or what not to acclimate, and once acclimated I want the full PAR they are able to provide. Ya i do know how to solder but it's pain in the butt the trick is pre-tinned all your precut wires and the led pads themselves to make life earlier... let me know if you do a group buy..gotta order soon... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BowieReefer84 October 15, 2010 Author Share October 15, 2010 Ya i do know how to solder but it's pain in the butt the trick is pre-tinned all your precut wires and the led pads themselves to make life earlier... let me know if you do a group buy..gotta order soon... Not gonna do a group buy. I know the stars come pretinned. How do you pretinn the wires? I have a friend with a solder tool. We are going to go for it . .. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thewire October 15, 2010 Share October 15, 2010 Not gonna do a group buy. I know the stars come pretinned. How do you pretinn the wires? I have a friend with a solder tool. We are going to go for it . .. Basically you get the wire and some solder and try to melt some solder onto the wire. This way it will helps the bonding faster before the heat pass into the heatsink or onto the wire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BowieReefer84 October 15, 2010 Author Share October 15, 2010 With the thermal grease b/t the LED and the Heatsink, how much do you need? Like should it be squeezing out the sides when I put screws into the heat sink holes? Or is just a dab enough? Can't find any pictures online of this step.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BowieReefer84 October 15, 2010 Author Share October 15, 2010 Found this dimmer . . .http://www.satisled.com/wireless-rf-single-color-dimmer-with-remote-for-led-lights-dc12v_p106.html It is cheap. Would it work with non-dimmable meanwell drivers? Do you just wire it in? Seems to good to be true. One for blue and one for white? Dimming for $23? Help me please. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thewire October 15, 2010 Share October 15, 2010 (edited) With the thermal grease b/t the LED and the Heatsink, how much do you need? Like should it be squeezing out the sides when I put screws into the heat sink holes? Or is just a dab enough? Can't find any pictures online of this step.... you use a tiny bit, like a dot. Don't put too much into it or else when you screw it in, it will make a mess. Make sure you use a nyloc washer between the screw and the led star. Also You can also use Nanotuner pad. Since you are using 24 LEDs, why not just use 2 meanwell D driver. You can either use Reefkeeper lite ALC to dim it or built a simple dimming circuit. Nanoreef has it. Also if you do not want to go that option, you may have to use light diffuser or hang it higher Edited October 15, 2010 by thewire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeanH October 15, 2010 Share October 15, 2010 For what it's worth, I would be interested in seeing the kit and how it goes together. If any one wanted to come up to my shop in Frederick, I would be willing to solder the kit or let you solder the kit on one of my electronics benches. I have high quality Weller pencil iron solder stations, thermal grease and high quality solder (though the spool I have been using is 60/40 rosin core - I'm generally working on older electronics so it doesn't bother me it's not RoHS). I have overhead lighting on each bench, too, which makes it nice to work. PM me if you're interested in my offer. For any one not familiar with this kind of work, get yourself a pencil tip iron of high quality with replaceable tips. Nothing is more frustrating than working on electronics with crappy irons that have poor temperature regulation and too large a tip. Weller makes irons worth using. There may be others, but I've never bothered to use anything else. For solder I would recommend 3/16" rosin core made by Kester or Ersin. There may be other good brands, but I've relied on those brands for 30 years. If you don't use a good solder, you won't get good flow characteristics, which may lead to applying too much heat to your components and melting something unfortunate. Or crystallized solder joints. Like most things, you need to use good tools and materials to get high quality results. Some one experienced with soldering could elect to use a butane iron, but I generally only use those in the field where I have no convenient source of power. Some one without the experience of using this type of iron shouldn't attempt it IMO because you have to do everything else right AND keep an eye on your combustion vent so you don't melt something with the iron's exhaust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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