120g canopy 48x24

[phisigs79]

I was trying to see if anyone has plans on building a 120g canopy that can support 2x 250w luminarc reflectors and 48" vhos. My tank is 48x24. If someone has one laying around let me know as well. My stand is the standard black AGA pine. Need opinions on how to access the tank through the canopy.

[zygote2k]

You'll be building a box that sits on the upper rim of the tank that is tall enough to handle the Lumenarcs and leave room to work on the tank below. If you sandwich the mh's with the VHO's, you can make the front of the canopy open upward to allow access.

[phisigs79]

I am wondering if i should hinge it, hang it or put it on rollers. Hanging it would be nice but not sure on how it can be done easily and fairly cheap but still look ok

[CHUBAKAH]

Tank a look at the one I built for DDiver in the dedicated tank forum.

[phisigs79]

Mark thats exactly what I thinking. looks like this might be my best bet

[phisigs79]

Wonder how i would make the canopy match???

[CHUBAKAH]

Not sure what you mean by match?

[phisigs79]

Photo credit to jpNuss:

 

 

 

This is the stand I have. I want it to match but not sure if I should basically build a box and have a rounded out board trim the top and bottom or do the planks like the front doors.

[CHUBAKAH]

I'd change the doors on the lower unit so you don't have to match, but that's me. T11 is an exterior siding, not stand doors.

[phisigs79]

Yeah not a fan of the doors. Recommendations on the doors?

Edited September 8, 2010 by phisigs79

[phisigs79]

Whats a good height?

[CHUBAKAH]

Whats a good height?

For the doors - http://nakedkitchenc....reachlocal.net

 

By height if you mean the canopy I used a 1 X 12 to build Billy's canopy.

[ErikS]

It's kind of a personal choice.........but what I would do is build a frame from light lumber, 1x material. I'd put some wider material in the top of the box for mounting lights. I would then skin/trim the box using some 1/4" "bead board" ply. When painted it would come close to matching the doors. This would be light & strong. For the 1x material I'd probably use poplar, takes paint nicely & is fairly cheap. I'd also leave the back open if you can - ventilation.

 

I'd build a main box & then a frame for the front side - you can hinge this frame for access.

 

How high? How high do you want the lights? Standard mogul sockets are about 4.5" including bulb = that + light height.

 

I'll try to dig up a pic of the bead board ply, it can be had at both of the big box stores.

 

EDIT - found something. You can see a bit of the bead board ply I used as the field for the doors. This is what I was talking about for the skin. You could always make replacement doors..........but.....you'd need a rail & stile set (ain't cheap). Not terribly hard, heck I can do it - lol.

 

Edited September 9, 2010 by ErikS

[phisigs79]

Thanks Guys. So 1 inch material (poplar)seems to be the way to go. I think I am going to make a box out 1x material and leave the back open with a couple 1 x 2 boards on the back for support. Then I am going to get some round edge trim (hopefully this can be found at lowes) and trim the top and bottom. I am going to use a hindge on the back to lift the entire canopy. Then I want to do my doors like Eric's. Should look decent if it comes out like i plan

[BowieReefer84]

Thanks Guys. So 1 inch material (poplar)seems to be the way to go. I think I am going to make a box out 1x material and leave the back open with a couple 1 x 2 boards on the back for support. Then I am going to get some round edge trim (hopefully this can be found at lowes) and trim the top and bottom. I am going to use a hindge on the back to lift the entire canopy. Then I want to do my doors like Eric's. Should look decent if it comes out like i plan

For any trim pieces that are not structural I would recommend only using liquid nails for WOOD. This stuff holds really really strong. It will provide a really clean look. Just make sure you have clamps to hold it until it sets up. imo.

 

Can't wait to see it.

[phisigs79]

I am also going to use 1/2 material maybe 1 inch wide in the inside corners and glue them for added support.

[BowieReefer84]

I am also going to use 1/2 material maybe 1 inch wide in the inside corners and glue them for added support.

 

Do yourself a favor and draw it out in excel or on graph paper first. Making a wrong cut on a 2x4 is not a big deal, but the hardwood pieces cost a fair bit more. You may also want to go look at the sizes they stock at lowes/hd/other, and make sure your plans will work out.

[phisigs79]

working it out on paper as we speak

[ErikS]

Can't answer specific, but most HD/Lowes have poplar in 1" or 3/4" by X (various). Up to 4" or so wide it's not terribly expensive (& can be ripped). Two rectangular frames connected by however long pieces should work. I'd put something wide(ish), say 2.5 or so in the center for light attachment & 1" at the corners (more if you need to mount more lights). If you skin with 1/4" ply & connect overlap on the frames it will add strength. For additional strength just put some triangles in the joint corners (make them from cutoffs). Four feet is a bit long for poplar, might add a couple ribs (T look).

 

You can also check places like Northland Forrest Products (hardwood dealer). Stock may come unfinished but are generally cheaper than HD Lowes. They're in Manassas, not too far from Gainsville.

 

You can always make a solid ply box, but that can get heavy.

[steveoutlaw]

Take a look at the false canopy that Robie Sayan built for his 180g. He had lumenarcs as well. The great thing about the false canopy is that you don't have to worry about opening and closing it to get into the tank. Here's a link:

 

http://www.wamas.org/forums/topic/25079-congratulations-robie-sayan-robz/