Need Chiller and frag tank plumbing advice

[m3fan8ic]

I am tryingto add chiller and frag tank to my sump. I am planning on using Mag 36 for this setup. Please let me know if this looks good or should I plumb it differently? I am not sure if this is an efficient way of plumbing through the chiller and frag tank? I am planning on using flex PVC for the most part but will use hard pvc if I have to. Comments/suggestions are welcome

thanks

Sid

 

 

[m3fan8ic]

not single reply??? wow!

[onux20]

I would give folks the weekend to comment...that seems to be when most folks are online sifting through posts.

MHO

 

It looks like some return water is bypassing the chiller. Is that to keep the pressue/flow rate down through the chiller? Or is it misrepresented in the pic?

 

Ron

Edited May 29, 2009 by onux20

[m3fan8ic]

Ron thanks for your reply..

Chiller intake has ball valve to reduce the pressure going into the chiller and drain comes back to main return. Currently I have it running in my sump with another pump which dumps the water back into retunr chamber of the sump after going through the chiller.

[GaryL]

i'm not sure i would have the chiller drain plumbed back into the return.

[m3fan8ic]

What do you suggest drain it back into the return chamber?

[DaveS]

Just some quick thoughts- by plumbing the chiller output back into the same return line, you probably wouldn't get a reliable (if any) flow through the chiller. The back pressure from the drain is likely to cancel out the input pressure to the chiller causing little if any flow through the chiller. I don't know what your flow specs are for the return pump or chiller. Some simple options to consider are:

 

1) have the chiller be part of the frag tank loop. You do need to make sure the flow levels are high enough that the temp drop from the chiller won't be a detriment to the inhabitants of the frag tank.

2) plumb the chiller into the line AFTER the frag tank instead of before. This way it's got lower flow through the chiller. I'm guessing that is why you have that ball valve before the chiller in the drawing.

[GaryL]

what about running the drain (or one of them) from the main tank to the frag tank then the frag tank drain through the chiller then to the sump?

[onux20]

what about running the drain (or one of them) from the main tank to the frag tank then the frag tank drain through the chiller then to the sump?

Would that be enough pressure?

Ron

Edited May 29, 2009 by onux20

[m3fan8ic]

DaveS that's a good point, I didn't think of the back pressure in the return line from the chiller drain.

how about if I keep the chiller where it is and change the drain back to sump? either in drain chamber of return chamber?

[cordonbleu]

If I have to do it, I will remove the "tee" from the return pump to the frag tank. Let the main tank take full force from the return pump.

The main 144g tank then drains to the frag tank. From the frag tank, the water will over flow to the sump.

Edited May 29, 2009 by cordonbleu

[m3fan8ic]

If I have to do it, I will remove the "tee" from the return pump to the frag tank. Let the main tank take full force from the return pump.

The main 144g tank then drains to the frag tank. From the frag tank, the water will over flow to the sump.

 

The reason why I did it this way is to have fresh water go to the frag and main tank after skimmer/fuge and also I think Mag 36 is probably too strong for direct return to my display which only have about 10' head loss. I know I can reduce the pressure but I was thinking if I add frang tank via T's to return line it will reduce some pressure.

[DaveS]

DaveS that's a good point, I didn't think of the back pressure in the return line from the chiller drain.

how about if I keep the chiller where it is and change the drain back to sump? either in drain chamber of return chamber?

 

 

Yes, taking the chiller drain and putting back into the sump is better. Chip mentioned the need to make sure you aren't short cycling your chiller in another thread which is asking very similar questions.

 

I wouldn't put the chiller in the drain line. The flow for a drain is less predictable and can have debris in it. Not good properties for feeding a chiller.

[queloque]

Yes, taking the chiller drain and putting back into the sump is better. Chip mentioned the need to make sure you aren't short cycling your chiller in another thread which is asking very similar questions.

 

I wouldn't put the chiller in the drain line. The flow for a drain is less predictable and can have debris in it. Not good properties for feeding a chiller.

 

I'm doing something similar but i'm not m3fan8ic. His post just sparked my issue as well.