MH vs. T5

[SDBDRZ]

 

 

As was mentioned above, there are so many variables other than lighting that can have an effect on growth or color of corals. I'd suggest starting a new thread with as much detail about your tank as you can provide and ask for advice and recommendations. Include at least the following:

 

Tank size, type and age

Information about sump/refugium

All available water parameters

Setup of returns and other pumps in the tank

Water change regimen and type of salt mix used

Lighting type, bulb configuration (including height above water line) and light cycle

Additives used, frequency and qty

Tank inhabitants

Any observations about your tank that concern you or that you think may be useful.

 

 

agreed

[dhoch]

Yeah...I agree with teh other 2... parameters may even be more important than lighting.

 

I would look at everything I tell everyone there are 3 things that are important in keeping a successfull tanke:

 

1) Stable parameters

2) Good Lighting

3) Good flow

 

Dave

[Ingo]

You guys need to stop comparing lights, etc. with Germany. I am confused here in the US. I am German living here in Virginia. In Germany I had MH, here I tried something else. Whenever I visit and talk to my reef buddies in germany I see the same division of MH and T-5

[Ingo]

Sorry guys,

I had no idea the Yahoo translation page sucks so bad.

Ingo

[lanman]

Sorry guys,

I had no idea the Yahoo translation page sucks so bad.

Ingo

 

Thanks for that info! Nice to see that in a a side-by-side comparison test the T5 lighting shined! (says the man who just put a T5 array on his new tank)

 

bob

[YBeNormal]

All of the online translation pages suck but this is at least good enough to get the point across that T5s are at least equal MH on tanks up to 31" and may actually be better in some cases.

 

It's interesting to me that so many people seem to think that European tanks are all highly technical works of wonder. I can see how being exposed only to the fantastic tanks discussed in TOTM articles could lead someone to that impression but having lived in Germany for a total of 11 years and having seen many of their tanks first-hand, I can assure everyone that they are having the same discussions and issues that we are--just in a different language! I know several Germans that were MH owners and have since jumped on the T5 bandwagon to reduce energy costs. None of them have expressed any regrets and their tanks have certainly not suffered from the change.

 

Can you provide a direct link to the German version of the article?

 

Danke!

[keeperofthefish]

I will try to upload some images of my tank as soon as I get someone with a decent digital camera to come by. In any case, here is the scoop on my tank, and why I think my limiting factor is lighting and not something else. But please--criticism is welcome! I want to improve!

 

75 gallon RR AGA, 100lbs.+ Fiji liverock, shallow decorative sand bed (about 1")

 

DIY Canopy with 4x54w IceCap660 T5 lighting on IceCap SLRs (2xGiesemann AquaBlue+, 1xATI SunPro, 1xAquaZ BluePro) and 2x110w IceCap 430 (2x UV Lighting Super Actinic R VHOs). VHOs are on from 10:30 AM-10:30 PM, T5s are on from 11:30 AM-9:30 PM (10 hours).

 

20 gallon sump with EuroReef ES5-3, return through Eheim 1262 run through a WavySea into the main tank, and a slow feed to a 20 gallon refugium, gravity fed back into main tank. Fuge is lit on a reverse photo-period by 2x24w Sunlight Supply retrofit 10K T5s (this is a GREAT use for T5s and everyone should use these on their fuge!). Fuge also contains a DSB (about 3.5" oolitic aragonite) and grows chaeto.

 

Further flow in the main tank is provided by a Tunze 6000 Stream on a 7100 controller set to oscillate between 20 and 85% of power.

 

My parameters, all tested using Salifert kits all well within expiration date, are 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, 0 nitrate, 0 phosophate. Alk=10.6, Ca=370, Mg=1170. My salinity is 1.026--checked with an ATC refractometer and a Pinpoint salinity monitor. Tank pH, constantly monitored through my ReefKeeper II, is between 8.10 (morning) and 8.35 (late afternoon).

 

Alkalinity and kalk are maintained with a Knop-C reactor and a GEOS Kalk reactor with a peristaltic pump that doses in 5 minute increments 3 times over the course of the night to help maintain pH. Auto-top-off is done also by a level sensor and a peristaltic pump.

 

I use Reef Crystals salt and change 10-15 gallons each week (15 gallons at least every two weeks). There is no science behind this varying amount--just happens to be what I mix up in the container I use. I use RO/DI water run through a Typhoon III, TDS=0, let this aerate for 24 hours, then mix in salt and let it settle for 48 hours. It is heated to the temperature of the tank and well aerated.

Edited February 19, 2007 by keeperofthefish

[Ingo]

 

Can you provide a direct link to the German version of the article?

 

Danke!

Here it is

http://archiv.korallenriff.de/leuchtstofflampen.html

[Gadgets]

Seriously, as stated before this topic always ends the same way. Two OPINIONS! In the end some have it and some don't. That is why you can buy the BEST equipment in the world and still have a POS tank. It is a lot more thn lighting that gets these beautiful tanks where they are. Water flow, quality, husbantry. All of that plays a key in the tank. Good luck to you all.