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I would like to know if this is a safe and doable DIY. Engineer with basic electrical soldering skills here.

I saw this ad for an used UNS titan light. Catch is that the junction seems to have burnt on the inside but the lamp works fine.

It comes with a 36V, 4A power supply

https://ultumnaturesystems.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/TITAN-INSTRUCTIONS.pdf

 

Is replacing the entire power supply easy and adding a kill-a-watt monitor worth it?

Or should I just not buy it?

Screenshot 2024-12-22 at 7.15.18 PM.png

Strange fault, at 4A those contacts shouldn't really be subject to a lot of heating as they're usually not that small.  Wonder if there was some gunk in the connector when it was attached or something on the far end shorted and the power supply doesn't have overcurrent protection.

 

In any case, while a replacement original connector on both sides is probably the most elegant solution, if you're going to replace both anyways, you could use virtually any waterproof connector rated for more than 4A (or several contacts that together add up to well over 4A) and just use that instead.

6 minutes ago, DaJMasta said:

Strange fault, at 4A those contacts shouldn't really be subject to a lot of heating as they're usually not that small.  Wonder if there was some gunk in the connector when it was attached or something on the far end shorted and the power supply doesn't have overcurrent protection.

 

In any case, while a replacement original connector on both sides is probably the most elegant solution, if you're going to replace both anyways, you could use virtually any waterproof connector rated for more than 4A (or several contacts that together add up to well over 4A) and just use that instead.

 

Thanks for your reply. Should I try to get a meanwell power supply? Will that be more reliable than just any random 36 power supply? If so, what gauge wire should I buy?

(edited)

They work fine, but they are entirely open - direct access to the internal components for drops of water and direct access to mains contacts for fingers.  For this sort of application, I'd go with a power brick like the original manufacturer one (or just chop off and replace the connector on the original one.)  For a roughly equivalent enclosed part, you could look at MeanWell's GST series.

 

Not sure if your light will be dimmable.  Basically, if it's only a string of LEDs, it should be, but if there's any kind of controller element or power converter (and with only 36V input, this may certainly be the case), the PWM dimming wouldn't have any functionality.

Edited by DaJMasta
  • 1 month later...

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