squiddly October 11, 2006 October 11, 2006 My 120 tank is 60 inches long and I am using a 48 inch lighting fixture that currently has 4 65 watt fixtures, 2 of which have coralife 8800K bulbs, and 2 are arctnic bulbs. I want to upgrade to MH or T5 to keep anemones and some more sensitive corals. I'm looking for thoughts on: 1) Is it better in the long run to sell this set of lights and get a new one? 2) If not, anyone have any ideas on what retro kits I should look at? I'm going to need something that runs relatively cool, of course... 3) What all is involved for a person who knows absolutely nothing about this stuff? 4) Will I need adult supervision so I don't get another one of them there nasty electric shocks? Thanks!
ReeferMan October 11, 2006 October 11, 2006 I have MH and dont have heat issues,Jason. My tank never goes above 78.5 or lower than 78 and i have 2x 250w MH over my 75. I would sell your PC's and get some MH or T'5. I like the shimmer of MH's. Retros are pretty easy to wire up and building a canopy is easy as well. There are many people that can help you do both in the club or walk you through it.
RudyCDX1 October 11, 2006 October 11, 2006 Pick your lights based on the specific requirements of the animals you wish to keep. That should be your guide. What type of anemones do you want and what are the needs of the "sensitive corals"? Do they require the same type of lighting and photo periods?
BeltwayBandit October 11, 2006 October 11, 2006 1) Is it better in the long run to sell this set of lights and get a new one? Yes sell it, there is nothing salvageable (other than the reflector which is the cheapest part) for retrofitting. Get some money out of the setup. 2) If not, anyone have any ideas on what retro kits I should look at? I'm going to need something that runs relatively cool, of course... Cool is a relative term. I have 2x250W MH and 2x110W VHO ~6 inches above the water in an enclosed canopy and have no heat issues. I do, however, have two AC fans that come on when the lights come on for circulation and heat dissipation. Heat is manageable, usually. Where is the tank? What is the normal ambient temperature of the room? My tank is in the basement which always has at least a 5-10 degree temperature differential to the tank. The smaller the differential the harder it will be to keep the tank from overheating. Its generally easier to add heat than to remove it. 3) What all is involved for a person who knows absolutely nothing about this stuff? Its very very easy. Look at somewhere like Hellolights.com They have the pieces and parts and you can build your own retrokits. Just do some research, come up with what you think you want. Then post it here and we can help steer you in the proper direction. 4) Will I need adult supervision so I don't get another one of them there nasty electric shocks? Can you connect two wires with at connector? If the answer is yes then you can do this. It is very easy and you can save a ton of money.
squiddly October 11, 2006 Author October 11, 2006 Pick your lights based on the specific requirements of the animals you wish to keep. That should be your guide. What type of anemones do you want and what are the needs of the "sensitive corals"? Do they require the same type of lighting and photo periods? I would like my LTA to be happy, a Sebae, BTAs, an Elegance Coral, and I'd pick other corals depending on what the best lighting for the anemones should be. Not stuck on any of the corals, so I can wait :-)
squiddly October 11, 2006 Author October 11, 2006 1) Is it better in the long run to sell this set of lights and get a new one? Yes sell it, there is nothing salvageable (other than the reflector which is the cheapest part) for retrofitting. Get some money out of the setup. Makes sense 2) If not, anyone have any ideas on what retro kits I should look at? I'm going to need something that runs relatively cool, of course... Cool is a relative term. I have 2x250W MH and 2x110W VHO ~6 inches above the water in an enclosed canopy and have no heat issues. I do, however, have two AC fans that come on when the lights come on for circulation and heat dissipation. Heat is manageable, usually. Where is the tank? What is the normal ambient temperature of the room? My tank is in the basement which always has at least a 5-10 degree temperature differential to the tank. The smaller the differential the harder it will be to keep the tank from overheating. Its generally easier to add heat than to remove it. The tank is in the living room which is usually around 73 degrees or so. I keep the tank at about 80. I have no problem installing fans. 3) What all is involved for a person who knows absolutely nothing about this stuff? Its very very easy. Look at somewhere like Hellolights.com They have the pieces and parts and you can build your own retrokits. Just do some research, come up with what you think you want. Then post it here and we can help steer you in the proper direction. That is encouraging! I will do this and see what I can come up with. Saving money is a very good idea at this time, having just bought far too much STUFF 4) Will I need adult supervision so I don't get another one of them there nasty electric shocks? Can you connect two wires with at connector? If the answer is yes then you can do this. It is very easy and you can save a ton of money. Not so sure if I can at this point. I THOUGHT I could plug in a powerhead and almost fried myself. Duh. But I can likely connect two wires if I remember to turn the power off first :-)
squiddly October 11, 2006 Author October 11, 2006 inVEST IN A gfi We have several, and MOST everything goes through it. Cept for ONE PUMP.......which has been changed, of course.
jwildman October 11, 2006 October 11, 2006 Beltway is correct I agree with him on all counts. I have to say that heat is not a problem with MH's. It is if you do not manage it correctly. I have a 180 with 3 @ 250 MH's and 2 VHO tubes and my heat stays within the 78-80 degree range all year round without a chiller. Sometimes I have to run a supplemental fan in the sump. I do have my tank in the basement, which helps. In addition I have the icecap fans in the hood that have heat sensors and are variable spped. My hood is all DYI and very easy to do. I would highly suggest doing one. You are welcome to see mine at any time. John We have several, and MOST everything goes through it. Cept for ONE PUMP.......which has been changed, of course.
squiddly October 11, 2006 Author October 11, 2006 Beltway is correct I agree with him on all counts. I have to say that heat is not a problem with MH's. It is if you do not manage it correctly. I have a 180 with 3 @ 250 MH's and 2 VHO tubes and my heat stays within the 78-80 degree range all year round without a chiller. Sometimes I have to run a supplemental fan in the sump. I do have my tank in the basement, which helps. In addition I have the icecap fans in the hood that have heat sensors and are variable spped. My hood is all DYI and very easy to do. I would highly suggest doing one. You are welcome to see mine at any time. John Cooooool! Thanks! I will see what evil plans the tool tinkering member of the Cult of the Home Despot thinks. It would be great to see some examples of DIY stuff. It will also be very nice meeting people this weekend (hopefully :-)).
squiddly October 12, 2006 Author October 12, 2006 Cult Leader of the Home Despot is worried about putting "that much power" into the lighting system for a tank. I had suggested 14K 250 watt MH x 2. Is he being unduly concerned?
jwildman October 12, 2006 October 12, 2006 Should have a MH every 2 feet. Not sure what tank size you have Cult Leader of the Home Despot is worried about putting "that much power" into the lighting system for a tank. I had suggested 14K 250 watt MH x 2. Is he being unduly concerned?
BeltwayBandit October 12, 2006 October 12, 2006 Cult Leader of the Home Despot is worried about putting "that much power" into the lighting system for a tank. I had suggested 14K 250 watt MH x 2. Is he being unduly concerned? A 250W MH draws about 2.3 amps on an electronic ballast. (from direct measurement of Hellolights 250W ARO electronic ballast driving a 10K XM bulb) Total draw for a 2x250 MH 2x110 VHO would be about 5.5 amps. Here is an example of the cost savings: 2x250MH 2x96wPC complete setup $945 http://www.hellolights.com/482x2510meha.html DIY Retro: 48"Reflector, 2x250W ARO Ballast, 1xVHO ballast, 2 XM 10K bulbs, 2x Super Actinic bulbs, Power Cords, End Caps. $592 Savings: $353
squiddly October 12, 2006 Author October 12, 2006 Should have a MH every 2 feet. Not sure what tank size you have It's a 120 that is 60 inches long.... so that would be 2 1/2. A 250W MH draws about 2.3 amps on an electronic ballast. (from direct measurement of Hellolights 250W ARO electronic ballast driving a 10K XM bulb) Total draw for a 2x250 MH 2x110 VHO would be about 5.5 amps. Here is an example of the cost savings: 2x250MH 2x96wPC complete setup $945 http://www.hellolights.com/482x2510meha.html DIY Retro: 48"Reflector, 2x250W ARO Ballast, 1xVHO ballast, 2 XM 10K bulbs, 2x Super Actinic bulbs, Power Cords, End Caps. $592 Savings: $353 That is indeed amazing. I am sending this to His Highness who is currently dreaming of the power tools dept. at Lowes. I really appreciate you guys, by the way. thanks! What do you guys think of something like this: http://www.reefgeek.com/products/categorie...ing/104226.html Description: Retrofit metal halide and compact fluorescent lighting system complete with two 175 watt 5500K metal halide bulbs (Upgrades available) and your choice of four from the following compact fluorescent bulbs: 55 watt 6750K Daylight, 55 watt 10000K Daylight, 55 watt Blue and 55 watt Actinic 03. Comes complete with two remote metal halide ballasts (Upgrade to 175W Electronic Metal Ballasts or 250W Electronic Metal Ballasts) with 10' cables and quick disconnects, remote compact fluorescent ballast with 10' cables and electro-white reflector. Use a retrofit if you already have canopy that you would like to utilize. Cost would be 479.00 plus upgrade to 14000K Hamilton MH (40.00) plus upgrade to electronic ballasts (60.00) for a grand total of 579.00? Was the other one (DIY Retro: 48"Reflector, 2x250W ARO Ballast, 1xVHO ballast, 2 XM 10K bulbs, 2x Super Actinic bulbs, Power Cords, End Caps. $592) also electronic ballast? Is that from Hellolights? Is there a big advantage to 14K over 10K? Have I gone completely insane yet? :-)
jwildman October 12, 2006 October 12, 2006 If I was doing again, I would do a couple of things differently. One is that I would use electronic ballast and the 2nd is that I would try to work in Luminarc reflectors in the mix. They also have a nice fan system also. They really make a difference on the light imo. It's a 120 that is 60 inches long.... so that would be 2 1/2. That is indeed amazing. I am sending this to His Highness who is currently dreaming of the power tools dept. at Lowes. I really appreciate you guys, by the way. thanks! What do you guys think of something like this: http://www.reefgeek.com/products/categorie...ing/104226.html Description: Retrofit metal halide and compact fluorescent lighting system complete with two 175 watt 5500K metal halide bulbs (Upgrades available) and your choice of four from the following compact fluorescent bulbs: 55 watt 6750K Daylight, 55 watt 10000K Daylight, 55 watt Blue and 55 watt Actinic 03. Comes complete with two remote metal halide ballasts (Upgrade to 175W Electronic Metal Ballasts or 250W Electronic Metal Ballasts) with 10' cables and quick disconnects, remote compact fluorescent ballast with 10' cables and electro-white reflector. Use a retrofit if you already have canopy that you would like to utilize. Cost would be 479.00 plus upgrade to 14000K Hamilton MH (40.00) plus upgrade to electronic ballasts (60.00) for a grand total of 579.00? Was the other one (DIY Retro: 48"Reflector, 2x250W ARO Ballast, 1xVHO ballast, 2 XM 10K bulbs, 2x Super Actinic bulbs, Power Cords, End Caps. $592) also electronic ballast? Is that from Hellolights? Is there a big advantage to 14K over 10K? Have I gone completely insane yet? :-)
squiddly October 12, 2006 Author October 12, 2006 If I was doing again, I would do a couple of things differently. One is that I would use electronic ballast and the 2nd is that I would try to work in Luminarc reflectors in the mix. They also have a nice fan system also. They really make a difference on the light imo. What kind of difference? I looked at them and they seem expensive. Are they worth it?
Rascal October 12, 2006 October 12, 2006 What kind of difference? I looked at them and they seem expensive. Are they worth it? Ask John at BRK. I remember him telling me about some PAR readings he took before and after he added lumenarcs to his system. They made a huge difference according to him.
jwildman October 12, 2006 October 12, 2006 John can give you the exact numbers, but the number was like 50% higher with Luminarcs than without. John Ask John at BRK. I remember him telling me about some PAR readings he took before and after he added lumenarcs to his system. They made a huge difference according to him.
squiddly October 12, 2006 Author October 12, 2006 John can give you the exact numbers, but the number was like 50% higher with Luminarcs than without. John Hmmm... that sounds indeed like a very large difference. Can these things be put into an existing canopy?
jwildman October 12, 2006 October 12, 2006 Not sure, don't know your hood dimensions. Here is a link for the luminarcs. BRK has then installed if you want to see them and measure them. John Hmmm... that sounds indeed like a very large difference. Can these things be put into an existing canopy?
Wasga October 20, 2006 October 20, 2006 If you are worried about heat and having enough light, you cant beat t5. The cost of running them is much cheaper also. You can get a diy kit from DIYReef.com for $209. Just a thought if money is a concern.
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