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DFR

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Posts posted by DFR

  1. On 3/13/2024 at 1:56 PM, Aaron Stillwell said:

    Thank you. What product do you recommend?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


    Not sure if you ever got this sorted out.  But is your calcium also trending down?  If so, just increase your dosage of AFR.  If only your alkalinity is dropping, increase it with any “alk” supplement.  
     

    I also use AFR.  I do not have issues with one compound being consumed more than another, but I have BRS 3-part that I could use to bring up either if my ratio were to go out of whack.

  2. That looks like a spionid worm (has the trademark “antenna”/palpi).  It’ll eventually settle in a lower flow area on the sand and build a tube around itself using the grains of sand.  The wrasses I’ve kept never seemed interested in them, but YMMV.  They don’t multiply quickly nor bother corals, so I wouldn’t worry too much about them.

  3. Ouch that must have hurt.  I’ve had pretty good luck with Tripp Lite surge protectors, and they’re reasonably priced for the protection they provide.  What type of battery back-up were you considering?  I have given the computer UPS some thought, but I always table the idea due to the size and short runtimes.

  4.  

    On 1/3/2024 at 10:43 AM, liquidgsr said:

    Hello Wamas.  Joined up here not too long ago and started my first tank early last year.  I cycled the tank for about 6 months and then introduced my first few fish.  Thank is a Waterbox 130.4, Eshopps Skimmer 120, Hygger Titanaium Heater, 2 MP40s, Jaebo Return bump, Generic ATO, Two 150w Nicrew Lights

     

    1st Yellow Clown Goby

    2 Firefish Goby, Ora Lightning Maroon Clown

    3 2nd Firefish Goby, Purple Firefish Goby, 2nd Ora Lightning Maroon Clown, Juvenile Blue Hippo Tang

    4 Black and White Ocelarius Clown

    5 Cleaner Goby and 6 line Wrasse

     

    I have added some coral frags since

    Dunkan

    Kenya Tree

    Green and Orange Montipora

    Slimeball Acro

    A few Zoa Frags

    Birds Nest

    Few other Acro

    Chalace

     

    I got a Rainbow Bubble Tip Anemone that split into two.

     

    My Green Montipora have lost color and bleached.  I think this maybe due to low iodine and calcium.  I have since started to dose iodine, but haven't dosed calcium yet.  The brids nest did the same.  I have not been able to borrow a PAR meter yet to check the levels.  I have my lights coming on for a little over 8 hours with the whites running for about 4hrs at 5% and blue at 20-25%, then 5 hours with just the blue at 30%.

     

    I got the Wrasse and the Cleaner Goby 2 days ago from Petco.  They both hid and yesterday I found the Wrasse finally.  Unfortunately it came out of hiding and started swimming upside down.  I put it in my sump with no lights to calm it down, but this morning I found it dead.  I will have to check my parameters. All other fish are healthy.

     

    After getting the black and white clown I had to remove my maroon clowns due to immediately bullying it.  They are now in a IM 16 AIO and are a mated pair.

     

    I have a 5 gallon quarantine tank I have setup for when I buy the livestock and transfer them in the tank.

     

    I have had a total of 5 Conch, Many types of snails (Margarita, Trochus, Nassarius, Turbo, Top Crown), and hermit crabs that have all died.  I now only Maragarita and Nassarius left.


    Looks like you are off to a good start in terms of equipment and stocking.  I’ll repeat what others have already said, you should test your alkalinity, calcium, nitrate and phosphate (assuming your salinity is stable) before blindly making adjustments.  

     

    However, from the sound of things, you don’t currently have a demanding load your elements since you only have a handful of frags in a 130g.  This being said, I doubt your calcium would be a cause for the coral bleaching/fading.  Right now regular water changes would be the easiest, and since you’re not testing, the best way to keep things stable.  I’m also not familiar with the Nicrew lights, but having them both set to a max of 30% is a pretty low intensity.  This would only be a total of 90w over a 4-foot tank, which is equivalent to about 2 T5 bulbs.  Shy of knowing your par levels or how everything is set-up, I’d say increase your lights to >60% to help reduce loss.

     

    There could be a number of reasons for fish loss.  What do you feed, and how often do you feed?

  5. On 12/18/2023 at 10:25 AM, SmittysReef said:

    Hello everyone! I have been in and out of the hobby for the past 16 years due to frequent moves in my last career. That life is behind me and I'm here to stay! I just joined WAMAS and looking forward to meeting everyone at the next meet. I love SPS dominant tanks and just got one started. If you have frags, I have cash and gas!

     

    Quentin Smith

    Welcome to WAMAS, glad to have you aboard!

  6. I would think it’s getting adjusted to your system (which is still settling).  Just keep an eye on it for further shrinkage and keep us posted.  If anything, just get your phosphate down to less than 0.1 (this would assist with your algae).

    Other members may chime in with other suggestions.

  7. Your levels all look fine with the exception of your phosphate which is a little on the high side.  This could be the cause of the hair algae.  
     

    In relation to your coral, I would not expect a negative impact with those parameters.  Additionally, the photo shows polyps, it looks decently inflated, and is upright (not slumping over), so I wouldn’t be overly concerned about the coral.  How long has it been in your system, and how long has your system been running? 

  8. 23 hours ago, p3rmafrost said:

    Thank you! The tank has been up for a bit. You think people would still want to see a build thread?

    Yes, they are always a nice read.  It could provide inspiration to others, and even help with issues some may be experiencing at the time.  PLUS you will have the added benefit of having everything in one thread to help you track the progression along your journey.

  9. On 12/28/2022 at 3:08 PM, raulsreef said:

    I’m thinking about setting another nano tank. I am stuck between getting a water box cube 10 and innovative, marine 10.  Any recommendations between the two ? 

    Both are pretty similar.  One thing I do however prefer about WB is the wall that separates the back chambers from the display is actually glass.  I believe this is the only mass produced manufacturer that does this.

  10. On 12/24/2022 at 11:25 PM, YHSublime said:


     

    honestly, natural remedy is starting to work

    You probably remedied this already, but if not, I’ve had great success with KZ’s CyanoClean on the red cyano variety (when I had the green one, it kinda worked itself out).  It is supposedly a bacterial blend that aggressively outcompetes the cyano.

    It took about a week before any visible changes could be observed, but after that, there were noticeable daily reductions.

    Good luck!

  11. On 12/12/2022 at 1:45 PM, nburg said:

    Says 12-16 weeks. I guess made to order? I've seen others say they have shipped within a week tho. I wonder if they're doing model refresh with it being 40% off. Online retailers don't carry the larger IM tanks anymore. 

    Sweet, IM does make some nice tanks.  We are debating between the EXT 170 and the 200.  The stands were the selling point and what ultimately diverted us from WB and RS.  Keep us posted following delivery!  I’d be curious to know your thoughts and comparisons between IM and your RS.

  12. On 11/28/2022 at 2:47 PM, FrontosaTony said:

    Thanks! was thinking of siliconing it. I found they have replacement orings that look larger and less warn than what I have so I ordered them. Im going to swap them out and silicone the broken one. I think the nut that broke only keeps the through pipe from backing out and loosening the Oring seal. 

     

    Thanks for all the help everyone! Wamas rocks

    Did you get this fixed?  Swapping the o-ring seals will usually fix your original problem.  As for the broken nut (if I understand the part correctly), you’ll have to buy the particular tailpipe assembly as the nut is not sold separately.  It’ll probably be best to search Red Sea’s website (under support) for the exact part, then enter the part number on Amazon.  The other option would be going through one of their dealers (could also be found on the website).

  13. Just to add to the data set… I set up a 10g for my cousin maybe 2 years ago that runs exclusively on tap water for top-offs (and 0 water changes).  I was actually SHOCKED when I visited her during the summer that not all the corals I “donated” were dead.  She had two Sunkist bounces were thriving (I’ve never seen the greens glow like they do in that tank), and a gorgonian that is still alive (though it looks looks to be the exact same size).  I already offered her a Godspawn bounce frag as it just split.  I probably won’t make it back there until the holidays, but I’m curious as to how that will do/look in her system.

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