Ben A

Those cross beams are 8"x1.25" ash with cross bracing and a vertical support in the back. You should have no issues, but if you ever do, let me know and I can fix it. Looking good.

Thanks for letting me build it for you. The hole system is just awesome in person.

Will look awesome once you paint it. Look awesome now even without it, cant wait to see it all complete.

Glad you were able to get the lights hung. Any issues with the bar top or frame? I think its going to look really sharp once I finish the canopy and skin the frame, jelouse of it already.

http://wamas.org/forums/topic/84325-fs-brand-new-cermedia-marinepure-blocks/ Just saw this, one block would be more than enough for your tank size.

Watch for Ammonia spike with the removal of beneficial bacteria. Put one of these: https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/marinepure-ceramic-biomedia-plate.html in the sump and let it seed for a couple weeks. Then pull out the rock, and leave the block. Then when you need to clean the sump, just pull out the block and put in a bucket of tank water. Just my thought and experience, your not going to have enough volume in your sump for Macro Algae to out compete effectively. You would be better off running GFO if algae is that big of an issue. Im not saying dont add a fuge for pods and other such benefits, but its not going to pull enough nutrients out of the water to clean up the algae alone.

black yoga mat cut to fit the tank bottom gets my vote

I can build the stand for you once I'm done with Epleeds electrical cabinet. I wouldn't be able to start for a week or two. I can also build a 3D model of the stand and give you an idea of material costs. I already have all the tools in my woodworking shop. PM me if you want.

So are you planning on making your own now?

I will say its been a long time since deforms back in college, so I am in no way disagreeing with Origami. I'm just saying I'd add a a few extra framing pieces below the stand top to better distribute the load. With a stand this small, we are talking one extra 2x4 cut into three short pieces and a few pocket holes to hide the screws. From the front you wont be able to see them anyway.

I dont see any issues with the stand design that you linked, I would just put a few 2x4" frame pieces every 1/4xlength. Between the framing and the plywood over the framing, you will be fine. I just wouldn't rely solely on the plywood to distribute the load to the frame. I can make some plans for you as long as you dont need them before Monday. PM me some links to photos of stands you like and I can design for you and come up with a cut list.

You will also need to be careful how you attach the top ledge to the stand walls. The wood will expand and contract with the seasons, and with water spills, if you just screw it to the stand, it will crack and be ruined. Plywood is much more stable than regular wood boards, but don't look very good and require edge banding.

You are going to have issues properly supporting the tank weight. The top of the stand is going to flex with the weight of the tank. If you don't have supports directly under the edges of the tank, you will need to build a support structure similar to that of a deck, with joists and beams along the entire top and supports at the corners that allow the beams to transfer the entire load of the tank vertically.

The tunze nano also has an automatic cut off

I had the Hydrofill when it first came out, it was terribly unreliable. The sensor was terrible and the pump was overpriced. Maybe its changed but Tunze Osmolator/Osmolator Nano has a long track record and the nano was great when I had a nano.

Tunze Osmolator Nano 3152 Cobalt neo-therm