FirstContact

There are valves on the drains and returns to the 46 and valves on the fuge. That's a great idea to gravity feed other tanks. Thanks for the feedback.

Finally! Adding a 120G to my system. Looking for advice on PVC plumbing from the main line on the return pump. See picture below: The vertical PVC on the right is the return: the first tee goes to my 46g and the 90 degree elbow goes to the 120g. The vertical column on the left goes to the manifold and then the refugium. Is this piped correctly, or should it be done differently? The return then pipes behind the 46g and takes a 90 degree turn to the 120g. [ Here is the back of the tank. Again, are the returns done correctly? Should it be a tee to a U or are the two tees off the same line correct? Here are some more pics of the tank and a manufactured stand that my son and I added some support to: [url=http://s816.photobucket.com/user/FirstContact2/media/14_zps18d72455.jpg.html] [ Before alterations you can see the 46 next to the 120: [

Guess my thought process for the RW15 was that if you cut the voltage by half you would be cutting the performance (number of rotations of the prop per x) by half making it relatively similar to an RW8. You are right though that the GPH would not be an exact match, and with the wider prop, a wider flow area would ensue. But I think this helps me make up my mind. Thanks! Although anyone that uses a variable voltage power supply on the RW15's I would still be interested in readind a response.

It'll be mixed with LPS and SPS. Eventually, I would like to turn it towards mostly acros but I am not quite there yet knowledge wise. Bottom will be sand standard reef grade. Also, does the variable power supply from 24 - 12V basically make it an RW8?

Two RW15s with variable power supply for a 48 x 24 x 24 with lots of rock also sand? And why or why not? Two RW8s instead and why or why not?

Two RW15s for a 48 x 24 x 24 with lots of rock also sand? And why or why not? Two RW8s instead and why or why not?

Already over budget for this year but I am in! Thank you WAMAS! Just can't turn the early price down when it's our own backyard. Another two tickets sold. Also happy to volunteer on this or other club business. Who do we contact re helping out and volunteering time?

Shrimp often hide after they molt because they are waiting for their new exoskeleton to harden and are more at risk having just molted. I have read that adding strontium encourages molting. I feel that I lost a crab once because he was not able to molt within my water parameters and grew too large for his current shell. Molting also requires calcium, and when I had this crab I was using IO instead of Reef Crystals which has more calcium and elements for reefs/corals. At the time, I was not growing corals.

I use a 100 micron sock followed by a 50 micron sock. They are made of felt with plastic rings and have a strap to hang them. I bought them in bulk in ten packs from CustomAquatic.com. I've been using them for years, and rotate them every three to four days. The more you have, the less you clean; plus you probably want to have enough to wash at one time. Ten socks at three day intervals is good for a month. I built a box out of black acrylic for the sock to stand in. The box sits under the pvc return to my sump, and has baffles and an outflow area. The sock hangs off the pvc returns but is inside the box.

Had great results with Berghia Nudibranches. You can get them online from salty underground.com. They work much better than CBB or kalk, although after Berghias, I think kalk is the best economical solution.